Search…

First Setting Eyes on Île Tintamarre

It’s not often that we find a place completely unknown to us, but Île Tintamarre is one we found hiding in plain sight. Join us as we explore the quirky history of this intriguing little land just off the Northeast coast of of Saint Martin… CONTINUE READING >> 

We have been to Saint Martin several times over the past fifteen years or so, but when we visited with Dream Yacht Charters last November we were surprised by something totally unexpected… an entire island that we had never heard of.

Hiding in plain sight, just off the Northeast coast of the French side of the main island, we discovered, or more correctly our exceptional captain Serge brought us to, the uninhabited yet indubitably captivating Île Tintamarre.

Our limited fluency in French linguistics led us to speculate on the name had something to do with the color of the sea, but we were way off. For no apparent reason the island seems to have been named for an old Acadian French word concerning making loud noise.

After going ashore, we learned that was only one of several oddities about this island.

Being so close to one of the Caribbean’s most modern islands meant that we had flawless cell service, so we could whip out our phones and Google on the go while exploring… so Google we did.

After some brief spelunking in a seaside cave on the beach where we made landfall, and an encounter with several of the island’s seemingly infinite population of hermit crabs, we made our way inland to see if we could find some traces of the stories we had found online.

The island’s history could best be described as quirky, which pairs perfectly with its topographic peculiarities. Unlike its much larger and mountainous nearby neighbor, Tintamarre is virtually flat. This feature influenced two unusual periods in the island’s past.

The first began in 1902 when Diederik Christian, a Dutch noble who owned the island, came to establish a plantation.  Although his main motivation seems to have been to escape taxation, he did manage to build an operation that included some 150 workers and had some success growing cotton and raising livestock.

We found a few ruins left behind from the farming activity, mainly a gate and stone fences, but there are still the remnants of a few buildings too.

He also might have been a little loco, because before long he established his own currency and ruled the island as a self- appointed monarch. Either imperial ruling, or perhaps the seclusion, must not have agreed with him, because by 1931 he sold the island to L. C. Fleming and returned to his estate on Saint Martin.

Guess he figured paying the taxes was worth it.

At this point France reclaimed the territory, which led to another unusual occurrence. Since the French Caribbean islands fell under control of the Vichy government during World War II, Tintamarre became a safe haven for Nazi submarines.

Seems the U-boats would rest on the shallow bottom just off shore while recharging their batteries and stocking up on fuel and provisions.

Not long after the war the second flat land inspired era began. An eccentric aviator by the name of Remy de Haenen rented the island and created an air traffic hub of sorts. He also may or may not have been involved with selling supplies to the German subs.

Once again the level ground contributed to the project by making the clearing of an airstrip an easy undertaking. After picking up some surplus military planes and a flying boat from PanAm, by 1946 Remy had his airline, Compagnie Aerienne Antillaise, up and flying.

Unfortunately, the pioneering flight service encountered three severe accidents in 1947, setting it back drastically. Then a huge hurricane in 1950 did it in once and for all.

While nearly no trace remains of the airport, we had very little trouble visualizing the runway cutting through the overgrown island bush as we walked across the Western end of the strip.

There is one last oddity that Île Tintamarre has been known for, mud baths. Somehow rumors spread that the messy muck along the southern shore had healing powers and folks began to flock to it. Adding to its fame was the fact that most chose to shed all of their clothing for the experience.

However, a few years ago the French authorities proclaimed the goop poisonous and banned the public from partaking in its dubious health benefits. While many ignore the directive, we chose to heed the warning and head back to the boat.

We felt quite confident that an evening aboard would be every bit, if not more beneficial than wallowing in the mud.

That, and dinner was waiting.

David & Veronica, GypsyNester.com

Read more about our sailing adventure across the Caribbean here:

Look out below! Holding Our Breath Beneath the BVI

The British Isles… Virgin That Is

Catamaran Cruising the Caribbean 

A big thank you to Dream Yacht Charter for providing this adventure. As always, all opinions are our own.

The Macabre Human Bone Church of Sedlec, Czech Republic

Halloween coming up got us thinking about the spookiest thing we have ever seen in our travels. There have been a few, but this church stands out as the scariest thing we encountered along the way…
CONTINUE READING >>

The Sedlec Ossuary, Czech Republic

We had dreamed and discussed a trip to what Veronica happily calls “The Motherland” for a long, long time.

A recent trip to Europe finally afforded us that opportunity. In our little rented car that we named Benny, we tooled into the Czech Republic with almost no idea what to expect.

Actually, it would be impossible for anyone to expect what we found in the little town of Sedlec — an ancient chapel that came with a very disturbing secret.

Creepy headstones at the graves of The Sedlec Ossuary, Czech Republic

The Sedlec Ossuary, Czech Republic

It had been used as an ossuary, or mass burial site. Strange, yet not completely out of the ordinary.

But inside the walls of this seemingly peaceful little church is a gallery so ghastly, it must be seen to be believed.

We had heard stories about this place, but words — nor pictures — can begin to explain what it was like walking through the doors.

This chandelier at The Sedlec Ossuary in Czech Republic contains every bone in the human body

This chandelier at The Sedlec Ossuary in Czech Republic contains every bone in the human body

Human bones from tens of thousands of people adorn the walls and ceiling, in inexplicable formations.

Strings of skulls and femurs of the dearly departed hang like garlands over the arches and doorways.

Stacks, pyramids, signs, crucifixes, candelabras and a coat of arms surrounded us, all made from the skeletons of the long deceased.

This chandelier at The Sedlec Ossuary in Czech Republic contains every bone in the human body

We — and every other visitor present — simply gaped in amazement.

Then we noticed the creepy centerpiece of this macabre masterpiece, a massive chandelier containing at least one of every bone in the human body.

It’s hard to say how long we stood staring, time seemed to come to a grinding halt inside the tomb.

What would make someone conceive of such a grizzly undertaking? The tale takes us back to the 1200s:

The Sedlec Ossuary, Czech Republic

Before the church became an ossuary, there was a conventional cemetery outside.

In the 13th century, the abbot of Sedlec, Henry Heidenrich, brought back some dirt from Golgotha (the hill where Jesus Christ was crucified) he acquired on a pilgrimage to The Holy Land and sprinkled it over the cemetery.

Suddenly the cemetery became the place to be buried if you lived in Bohemia.

Cherub angel with trumpet and skull

Making the idea of this spot as a final resting place even sweeter, a legend arose that if one was buried here their remains would decompose in just three days.

Who wouldn’t want to avoid – as the ossuary’s literature puts it – “the lengthy process of gradual decomposition?” Soon all of Central Europe wanted in on the action.

Sedlec Ossuary is the common grave of about 40,000 people

When the plague of the 14th century hit, the burial ground had to be significantly enlarged.

In 1318 alone, thirty thousand people were buried in the cemetery.

Around this time the chapel became an ossuary, but was heavily damaged in 1421 during the Hussite Wars. In 1511, large areas of the graveyard were decommissioned and bones from those graves were stacked in and around the ossuary.

Crown adorning one of the four pyramids of human bones

By the time renown architect Jan Blažej Santini-Aichl was commissioned to restore the ossuary, in the early 1700s, tens of thousands of souls had been laid to rest in it.

Santini’s unique mixture of the Gothic and Baroque styles were employed in the redesign and stand today.

Although a bit of bone decorating was going on prior to this, Santini kicked it into high gear. Using the hodgepodge of bones laying around, he constructed six enormous pyramids and affixed golden crowns atop them.

The Sedlec Ossuary near Kutna Hora, Czech Republic

The visitors guide states that the decor “may not be quite intelligible nowadays. We might be mistaken when considering the Ossuary’s decoration as mere bizarreness. It makes deep sense in the context of the stirred baroque piety.

Baroque piety or not, this seems to be the only place where people thought it made any, much less deep, sense.

The Schwarzenburg family coat of arms made of human bones at the Sedlec Ossuary in Kutna Hora, Czech Republic

In the late 1700s the ossuary was sold to the Schwarzenburg family who decided to turn woodcarver František Rint loose inside.

Using two of the six pyramids, he constructed the highly disturbing Schwarzenburg coat of arms. The “leftover” bones were reburied.

It is Rint’s work that struck us speechless.

Close up of the coat of arms in the Sedlec Ossuary

There’s a bird (whose wing looks as though it may be made out of a hand or foot) pecking the eye of a Turkish soldier, symbolizing a war victory.

Rint even “signed” his name in bones on a wall, for a little added flair.

Nearly as bizarre as the ossuary’s decor, is way the literature is worded. Someone seems to have turned somersaults justifying the ossuary’s unique ornamentation:

Jan Blazej Santini-Aichl vision

It’s guessed that the Ossuary is a common grave of about 40,000 people.

This work reminds us of the fact and the worth of eternity. God has concluded a covenant that puts us under an obligation to responsibility towards God and our neighbors.

The observance of the covenant will be appreciated when we die.

What? Well this should clear things up:

Sedlec Ossuary is the common grave of about 40,000 people

In the corners of the lower chapel your attention can be caught by giant pyramids made of bones.

These bones are stowed up without being bound together.

The human bones represent multitudes which none can count facing the God’s throne.

Or maybe not.

The Sedlec Ossuary, Czech Republic

It was time to get out, there’s only so much time we could comfortably spend in a grave.

We were having a strange feeling of desecration gnawing at the back of our minds.

Should busloads of tourists really be tromping through this tomb? The measure of respect for the dead seemed to be fairly lost in the crowd, not to mention the cheesy skull trinkets and souvenirs offered on the way out.

Ah yes, some things remain the same throughout our travels…

Exit through the gift shop.

David & Veronica, GypsyNester.com

See all of our adventures in the Czech Republic!

From Graceland to Beale Street, Memphis Keeps The Beat

Music flows through Memphis as deep as the mighty Mississippi. As the de facto capital of the delta region, The Blues made its way into town, settled in, and is still hanging around today…
CONTINUE READING >> 

Music flows through Memphis as deep as the mighty Mississippi. As the de facto capital of the delta region, The Blues made its way into town, settled in, and is still hanging around today. I suppose we could mark the official entry at just over one hundred years ago, when W. C. Handy arrived and started playing in the clubs on Beale Street.

The clubs along the famous street had been a hot spot for traveling bands since just after the Civil War, but Handy was the first to preserve the music by writing it down. Those published works went on to be hits all over the country, and Beale Street was on the musical map. Soon legends like Louis Armstrong, Muddy Waters, and B. B. King were regulars on the little stretch of road.

The Beale Street we found was drastically different from home of the funky nightclubs and juke joints that gave birth to the Memphis Blues, but the history lives on. We could feel it all around us, it practically hangs in the air.  A new generation grew up breathing in that sound, added a dash of hillbilly twang and a backbeat, and Rock & Roll was born.

It was the unique blend of cultures in the Bluff City that spawned Jerry Lee Lewis, Johnny Cash, Carl Perkins, and The King himself, Elvis Presley. Elvis became synonymous with Memphis, and to be perfectly honest, he was our main reason for coming to town. We wanted to make a pilgrimage to Graceland.

See more about Graceland here.

We were married on Elvis’ birthday. Don’t go jumping to any conclusions, we’re not crazy, it was just a coincidence. We didn’t even realize it until later, but maybe it has given us a cosmic connection with The King. So we took a drive out Elvis Presley Boulevard and pulled up to those famous gates.

We had heard all the stories about the royal residence, and inside was all that we had expected, and more. Every bit is covered in classic 1960s tacky opulence.

Don’t get me wrong, I have a deep appreciation for all things Elvis, first and foremost his music, but we also appreciate good kitsch when we see it.

Stepping into the living room was like, let’s see… what if Liberace decorated the inside of I Dream of Jeannie’s bottle? Across the entry hall, the dining room decor could best be described as early Southern grandma but, hands down, the highlight of these first few rooms had to be Mama’s purple poodle bathroom.

Headed down the hall, past the conventional kitchen, into the heart of The King’s lair, the feel of the house shifted from southern comfort to Hillbilly Cat.

Every living area has a bar — Elvis liked to entertain. The groovy, mod style TV room, all yellow and black with mirrored ceilings, set the tempo, and the Indian-inspired billiard room had us clapping along.

Finally, we couldn’t help falling in love with The Jungle Room. The King went completely Blue Hawaii tiki-tacky, green shag carpet native – even on the ceiling. Rock-A Hula! Let’s call it Paradise, Hawaiian Style.

We finished up in the Meditation Garden that Elvis built for quiet reflection back in the sixties; it now serves as the Presley family private cemetery. This is the final resting place for daddy Vernon, mother Gladys, grandmother Minnie May, and of course, Elvis, along with a memorial to his twin brother Jessie Garon, who died at birth.

From that solemn spot we headed back across Elvis Presley Boulevard to check out the King’s collection of cars and airplanes. Whatever we may have thought about his decorating choices in Graceland, Elvis certainly had good taste in cars.

As Rock & Roll royalty The King had to have a couple of Cadillacs and Rolls Royce Silver Clouds, but he also had a 1971 Stutz Blackhawk (the first Stutz ever brought into the United States), a 1975 Ferrari Dino, and two Mercedes, a limo and convertible 280 SL, bought before most Americans knew what a Mercedes was.

Next we passed through a faux airport gate and “Elvis Fan Detector” security checkpoint, and up the jetway to board The King’s “Flying Graceland” the Lisa Marie.

The interior is less gaudy than the ground-based home, with a lounge area and corporate style meeting room. Even with the mandatory wet bars, things seemed pretty tame, but Elvis’ private quarters stepped things up a notch. The bathroom sports twenty-four karat gold-plated fixtures, and then we realized that gold plating is sort of a theme running throughout the aircraft, right down to the seatbelt buckles and sink basins. Even the required belt across the… wait for it… king-sized bed.

Thank you, thank you very much.

David, GypsyNester.com

See more about Graceland here.

See all of our adventures in Tennessee!

Honeymoon in Ecuador and Galapagos

When embarking on a journey that will take you through the rest of your lives together, of course everyone wants the special trip after the wedding to be an adventure that will create memories that will also last a lifetime… CONTINUE READING >>

When embarking on a journey that will take you through the rest of your lives together, of course everyone wants the special trip after the wedding to be an adventure that will create memories that will also last a lifetime. We can’t think of any better way to accomplish that than to have your Honeymoon in Ecuador and Galapagos.

Even though, after we tied the knot all those years ago, we didn’t take our honeymoon there, we think we are onto something. Because when ever people ask us what is or favorite place that we have ever been, we always answer The Galapagos Islands. And now that we think of it, many of the reasons that made it such a “bucket list” vacation for us are the same reasons that will make it such a fantastic wedding trip for any newlyweds.

We began our travels in Ecuador’s capital city, Quito, which surprised us with abundant old world charm that most certainly strikes a romantic chord. The city’s Colonial Center is perhaps the best preserved and the largest in all of the the Americas. No doubt this is why it was the first New World city to be declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO.

Walking through the Plaza de la Independencia with the one you love, surrounded by palaces, the cathedral, and the Plaza Grande Hotel, feels like stepping into the pages of a classic love story. We even found a way to enjoy the magnificent Plaza Grande Hotel without breaking our budget by visiting their Cafe Plaza Grande, a very upscale, yet moderately priced, restaurant right inside.

Quito also has the distinction of being the closest world capital city to the equator. Just a short ride out of town and you and your lover can stand in two separate hemispheres at the same time, one in the northern and the other in the southern. That is certainly a memory that will last forever, maybe even something to tell the kids… or grandchildren.

We were also totally taken in by Ecuador’s largest city, Guayaquil. Our brightest memory of the town is the vast array of colors on the houses climbing up the sides of the hills. The downtown area is known for modern skyscrapers, but also has many interesting old buildings and a gorgeous cathedral that has a surprise.

The small park in front of the church, Plaza Bolívar, is filled with iguanas, so many that it has become better known as el Parque de las Iguanas.

As wonderful as our time on mainland Ecuador had been, the most memorable part of our journey was waiting ahead when we flew to The Galapagos Islands.

The archipelago consists of over one hundred islands and smaller islets, so every adventure can be different, depending on which islands you visit. But there are several highlights that no one would want to miss.

We flew to Isla Baltra, then immediately drove across a bridge to Santa Cruz and Las Bachas Beach. In absolutely no time at all we were watching sea lions frolic, bright orange and yellow Sally Lightfoot crabs scampering across the jet black lava, and several black (to blend in with the lava) Marine Iguanas that are only found on these islands.

From there we sailed to Darwin’s Bay on Genovesa Island. Formed by the remnants of a large volcanic caldera, the entire island is a large crescent shaped bay. It is also commonly called The Bird Island, and we can certainly agree that it lives up to the nickname.

It was here that we saw our first boobies, no, not that kind, the birds, both Red-footed and Nazca. The Galapagos are truly a bird lovers paradise and we saw our share including Red-billed Tropicbirds, frigates, a Short-eared Owl (a rare sighting we were told), Darwin’s famous finch, Flightless Cormorants, Blue-footed Boobies, a Vermilion Flycatcher (an even more rare event so we hear), and our favorite, Galapagos penguins.

Who would have thought that we would see penguins at the equator? But that sort of oddity is not at all strange on these islands. There are many species that are unique to the archipelago, so they can only be seen here, such as the Galapagos Giant Tortoise. They are such an iconic animal that the islands actually take their name from them, not the other way around.

We saw them several places around the islands, but we highly recommend a visit to The Giant Tortoise Breeding Center of The Galápagos Islands on Isabela Island where you are guaranteed to see a bunch of them, from babies to gigantic, ancient adults sometimes over one hundred years old.

A couple of our other favorites were Bartolomé Island and Fernandina Island, these are the youngest and most volcanically active of the islands, which is why we were so intrigued. The landscape is like its from another world, so stark and barren. Yet there is a real beauty to it as well.

There is one more essential point we learned on our trip and we want to make sure to pass it along. Before you set out on the incredible adventure of visiting Ecuador and the Galapagos be sure that you don’t book the wrong trip!

We love free-style travel as much as anyone, but for the protection of the animals and the ecosystems of the islands, you can’t just show up and start looking around these pristine islands. You need to choose the right guides and accommodations to insure a fantastic expedition. That means that it is very important to use an experienced company like Expedition Ecuador Travel Agency.

This will insure that your amazing honeymoon adventure will truly be the trip of a lifetime.

David & Veronica, GypsyNester.com

With Colder Weather Coming it’s Time for a Designer Crossbody Bag

With Autumn already upon us, and Winter right around the corner, this is the right time of year to pick up a handbag that goes easily over your heavy coats and sweaters while still being practical and looking stylish… CONTINUE READING >>

Autumn is already upon us, and Winter is right around the corner, so this is the right time of year to pick up a handbag that goes easily over your heavy coats and sweaters while still being practical and looking stylish. With that in mind a designer crossbody bag is the perfect choice!

Let’s take a look at a few reasons why:

1. Adjustable Straps

The easy to adjust straps can be lengthened to fit over the bulkiest overcoats, jackets, and sweatshirts, or shortened for when you check your coat and show off you latest fashions. Either way, your belongings all stay safe and secure.

2. Keep Everything Organized

Crossbody bags have a bunch of separate pockets and compartments that help to make sure everything is always in its place. If you’re like me, you have probably spent who knows how much time searching through your bag for something, digging all the way down to the bottom and you still can’t find it. This puts a stop to that! No more going through your entire purse to find your keys, wallet, or phone, and definitely no more dumping the entire contents out on to a table, or worse, the floor, because you will always know right where to find everything.

3. Great for travel

All of those compartments we just mentioned mean that you have plenty of space for all of your regular items, plus the extras you need while traveling such as tickets, passport, and extra cash. But better yet, your hands are free for carrying all of your other luggage while your crossbody bag is safely around your neck and body.

4. Fashion Friendly

Last, but certainly not least, these bags are very much in style. Crossbody bags are right in step with the latest fashion trends, not just for their great looks, but because they are perfect for busy people on the go. They fit right in whether you are getting on a plane for Paris or just another day at the office, heading out for a night on the town or hitting the books at school. They go with almost every look, almost all of the time.

How to Find the Right Bag

So right about now you might be wondering, “where can I find the perfect crossbody bag?” Well don’t worry, DOORS NYC has carefully curated a selection of the best crossbody designer bags on the market. One stop shopping for almost any style of bag you can imagine.

They have tons of designer names to pick from, including VIKELE STUDIO, which was founded by creative director Viktoriia Klymenko in 2017 and has been featured in Harper’s Bazaar and Vogue magazines. The studio has quickly become a favorite of fashion influencers and celebrities around the world.

Check out the edgy details, vibrant colors, and striking textures they are known for at the Vikele Studio shop. Even better, your purchase will help to support creative talent working in Ukraine.

So I know where I’ll be looking for the perfect crossbody bag before the weather turns any colder or the first snowflakes start to fall, DOORS NYC.

Veronica, GypsyNester.com

Fear Conquering & Paragliding in Lima, Peru

Our day began with what (we thought) was going to be a leisurely stroll along the sea cliffs of Lima. 

We had heard about the veil that hangs over the city, we were pleasantly surprised at the beautiful blue day ahead of us.

Reaching the cliffs, the first thing we noticed was not the view, but the … CONTINUE READING >>

Has the election got you feeling like you’re on the edge?
Well here’s a way to step off and fly!

Paragliding in Lima Peru

Our day began with what (we thought) was going to be a leisurely stroll along the sea cliffs of Lima.

We had heard about the veil –the Garúa — that hangs over the city, a veil that makes it seem that rain is always impending even though it literally never does rain. So we were pleasantly surprised at the beautiful blue day ahead of us.

Reaching the cliffs, the first thing we noticed was not the view, but the paragliders sailing high above the sea. Surprisingly, it was me, not David, who began the “I dare yous.”

David was not biting. Even when I triple-dog-dare him, he insisted he’d be more valuable “filming me safely from below.”

Right. I was on my own on this one.

After inquiring at the ticket booth, I was handed the most incredibly scary waiver I’d ever seen. In a nutshell, it read:

If you die, we are not to be held responsible. By signing this you agree that you were not coerced in any way to do this terrible thing.

Feeling it was too late to turn back – I had already goaded David too much and I had face to save – I signed my name and got in line.

The waiting was the hardest part. I watched the launching/landing area with rising fear. Most of the launches were as smooth as Mary Poppins’ sensible-shoes-and-umbrella takeoffs, but it was windy enough that some of the parachutes would prematurely catch air, causing some disturbing (and painful looking) backwards pulling action.

I was starting to panic. (People do this every day and do not die, people do this…)

Decibel's text reaction to Mommy paragliding in Lima Peru

To inject some humor into the situation, I fired off a text to middle daughter, Decibel — it’s important I keep The Spawn on their toes.

It’s getting harder and harder to faze them.

Decibel’s text provided the comic relief I needed to calm down. I turned to share it with David and lo, there was Triple-dog-dare Boy next to me in line. He had caved! Yes!

As I always do, I insisted on going first. I KNEW if anything went off the rails with David’s takeoff, I would never have the guts to get off the ground.

Getting ready to paraglide in Lima Peru

I persistently peppered the pilot and prep team with questions while they harnessed me in.

What is this strap for?

Did you double check the buckle?

Why is this so loose?

How am I attached to the pilot?

What keeps me from going upside-down?

And the kicker:

To my pilot: You’re going to be holding on to me, right?

Pilot Jorge: No, I will be steering.

Oh. Right.

It was no wonder that, with all of my questions, David ended up taking off before me. And it was as bad as I had imagined it.

I don’t know much about the science behind paragliding, but it looked as though his parachute prematurely caught the wind and that intense, rapid counteraction proved necessary.

RUN! Yelled his pilot. RUN!

But David’s feet were no longer on the ground. Not having a language in common with his pilot, he did the only thing he could (RUN!), in a very Wile E. Coyote-off- the-side-of-a-mountain fashion.

He was RUN!ing like a maniac in mid-air with two guys hanging on to his harness trying desperately to pull him back to Earth!

His feet touched the ground just long enough to run right off the cliff.

And disappear.

My breath caught in my throat as I imagined him cartwheeling down the cliffs attached to a stranger, stopping only for those brief moments when his parachute needed to untangle itself from the occasional twig. I couldn’t shake the Looney Tunes imagery.

Then, like the phoenix rising from the ashes, first the parachute, then David rose into view. Sweet relief was quickly followed by blinding fear.

Lima's Parque del Amor from above on a paraglider

To my pilot: I don’t want to do this anymore. Let me go back to the line.

Pilot Jorge: We already fly Berrrrronica.

Oh. Right.

WOW!

My feet were firmly off the ground.

Paragliding in Lima Peru - I got the orange one!

It was amazing. Lima spread out before me in a way that could only be seen by paraglider.

Or seagull, I suppose.

I can’t say I ever fully relaxed (my legs were sticking stiffly straight in front of me the entire ride), but it was easily one of the most exhilarating things I’ve ever done.

Paragliding in Lima Peru

And surprising.

Everything I experienced up in the air was the exact opposite than I expected (leading to more persistent peppering of questions to my pilot); the faster we went, the smoother the ride.

The higher we went, the safer I felt.

It was actually quite tranquil up there.

The landing, however, was everything I expected.

Pilot Jorge, now catching on to my fear level (you can watch this all go down in the video above): We will be landing now. All you have to do is standing.

Me: So I don’t do anything, I just stand up.

Pilot Jorge: Yes. And we will be okay.

Me: I feel like we’re sideways, are we sideways?

Pilot Jorge: No. We are okay. We are going very slow.

Me: What? It doesn’t feel slow. (petrified laugh) No. Ayhhhhhh!

Ground crew: (something really fast in Spanish)

Me: Do you have me? Ayhhhhhh! (to myself): STAND UP! I can’t stand up!

Pilot Jorge: Is okay, is okay.

Me: THAT WAS SO FUN!

Veronica, GypsyNester.com

Want more Lima? Click here to see more of our antics!

YOUR TURN: How’d I do? Are you ready to give paragliding a go?

The Big Apple’s Best Bargain

New York City is expensive! To help with some of that cost we want to pass along the best deal anywhere in the city. How about a boat tour of the harbor and an amazing view of the Statue of Liberty… for free? CONTINUE READING >> 

New York City is expensive!

Not only to live in, but to visit as well. So to help soften some of that cost we want to pass along what we think is the best deal anywhere in the city. How about a boat tour of the harbor and an amazing view of the Statue of Liberty… for free?

We’re not kidding, just climb aboard the Staten Island Ferry any time day or night, since it runs twenty four hours a day seven days a week, and never pay a penny. We’ve done it many times.

While the ferry is free now, it wasn’t always. In the early days it was a nickel a ride, and went up to fifty cents before the fare was waved in 1997 in an election year bid for votes from Staten Islanders by Mayor Giuliani. Since then the route has been fare-free, even though it costs the city over five dollars per passenger for each crossing.

The Staten Island Ferry began in 1817 as a part of the Richmond Turnpike Company, but historical records reveal that the Native American tribes living on Staten Island traveled back and forth by boat to Manhattan and New Jersey long before any Europeans arrived in the New World.

In 1838 Cornelius Vanderbilt bought the company, and his name has been famously associated with the ferry ever since. It was as a young boatman in New York harbor that he was nicknamed Commodore, a moniker which stayed with him for the rest of his life.

During the Civil War the Union used two of the ferries, the Clifton and Westfield, to assist in a blockade against the Confederate Army. After helping to capture New Orleans, they moved on to fight in Texas where the Westfield was sunk and the Clifton captured.

In 1905 the City of New York assumed control of the company and made it a part of the New York City Department of Transportation. This means that the service is considered more like a road than mass transit.

But none of this history lesson matters when looking for a little free fun on the water in the City That Never Sleeps. So for the Big Apple’s best bargain we always head down to the Whitehall Terminal on the southern tip of Manhattan, right next to Battery Park.

For the best view of Lady Liberty choose the starboard, or right hand, side of the boat. It’s not hard to tell where to go, it’ll be where about eighty percent of the other passengers are. On the way out the route first passes Governor’s Island on the other side. This little isle has quite a history of its own.

During the Revolution and War of 1812 it was armed with fortifications for the city, then later as a Coast Guard installation. In between the island was more than doubled in size by dumping the excavations from digging the subways.

Now it serves as a green space getaway for city dwellers, complete with its own faux tropical beach.

By the time the ship gets far enough out in the harbor for a good look at the statue, so many people are usually on that side the boat is listing. The view of the Statue of Liberty is not as close up as the tourist boats, but remember, for the price it can’t be beat.

And it is certainly close enough to get a good photo op. (Don’t forget to zoom in.) Right next to Liberty Island is Ellis Island, certainly not as impressive from afar, but every bit as historically significant, if not more so.

Usually when we reach Staten Island we just disembark and then turn around and get right back on for the return trip. Everyone is required to leave the boat and go inside to get back in line for the next ferry. It’s no big deal because there is never more than a half an hour wait.

Depending on the time of year though, there is another of the city’s best bargains right by the dock, The Staten Island Yankees. This minor league baseball team is often called the Baby Bombers because they are the single A level affiliate to their parent team the Bronx Bombers. They could also be so named for their much smaller admission fee.

As fun as it is to see these young hopefuls striving to make the big leagues, perhaps the most exciting thing about them is their stadium, Richmond County Bank Ballpark at St. George. That may be a mouthful, but the view over the outfield wall is an even more amazing eyeful.

Watching the sun set on the world’s most famous skyline is worth every penny of the dozen or so dollar ticket price, no matter who is on the field.

After the game, or if it isn’t baseball season, the view of the skyline on the return trip is even better. Every time we can’t help but join the groups of onlookers watching the skyscrapers of lower Manhattan loom as we approach the terminal, no matter how many times we’ve done it.

This incredible backdrop has also made the Staten Island Ferry a very popular setting for filming movies, including Working Girl, How to Lose a Guy in 10 Days, and the recent Spider-Man: Homecoming.

We can see why, no set or soundstage could possibly top it, but for us it is just the best cheap date in the city.

David & Veronica, GypsyNester.com

Got any other amazing deals to pass along? Tell us about them in the comments.

Hunting the Big 5 with our Camera – Safari South African Style


As luck would have it.

The phrase doesn’t necessarily refer to good luck; sometimes it can preface a lament of ill fortune.

In the case of our photo safari in South Africa, as luck would have it, we were about as (good) lucky as anyone could get… CONTINUE READING >>

The GypsyNesters in Kruger National Park in South Africa

As luck would have it.

The phrase doesn’t necessarily refer to good luck; sometimes it can preface a lament of ill fortune.

In the case of our photo safari in South Africa, as luck would have it, we were about as (good) lucky as anyone could get.

Elephants in Kruger National Park, South Africa

When we set out on Viator’s Best 3-Day Kruger Park Wildlife Safariwe packed our camera into the backpack excited at the prospect of seeing the Big 5.

Especially rhinoceros, since the endangered giants had eluded us in Tanzania.

There are only about 20,000 white rhinos left in the world, and about half of them live in Kruger National Park, so there is no better place to see them.

A rhino covered in birds in Kruger National Park in South Africa

And see them we did, dozens of them.

We saw them on the very first afternoon, and every day of the three-day tour.

We were closer to rhinos than we ever dreamed possible.

In fact, on the last day we were feeling fairly strongly that we might have been too close.

Baby Rhino at Kruger National Park, South Africa
Soooo cute! Look at his little bump of a second horn!

On our way out of the park we came upon a family of rhinos, so we stopped to watch as the momma and baby leisurely strolled across the road in front of us.

Meanwhile several other cars pulled up to take a look, which made the dad downright disturbed as he felt that he was being cut off from his family.

An angry male rhino in Kruger National Park, South Africa
He’s HUGE! And unhappy.

At that point the two-ton beast stepped into the center of the vehicles and got pretty protective, rocking back and forth and staring down each of his mechanical adversaries.

The nearest car to him was a tiny compact that weighed less than half of the gridlocked huge, horned creature.

The big guy could have crushed it in a second, and, and the driver was obviously distressed… with good reason.

Yet the car behind them seemed oblivious to the situation, so our fantastic guide, Phineas, who was feeling the tension, backed us away slowly, opening a path for the rhino and helping to defuse the situation.

The big fellah did an imposing, and less than graceful, backwards walk into the bush before turning to catch up with his family.

WATCH: We captured the whole rhino ordeal on video. It was hairy!

An elephant crosses the road in Kruger National Park, South Africa

As intense as that situation was, it wasn’t the highlight of our safari.

Day two would take that honor.

We set out early for an all-day game drive and immediately came upon more rhinos, then drove deeper into the park and found gorgeous giraffes…

Giraffes grazing on trees in Kruger National Park in South Africa

…and several giant elephants.

Elephants in Kruger National Park in South Africa

A herd of elephants in Kruger National Park, South Africa

Baboons groom each other in Kruger National Park, South Africa

Next we came upon a troop of baboons. There were at least thirty in the group, including several babies.

One looked to be brand newborn, perhaps only a day old, and we caught it nursing while the mother carried it along.

So cute!

A baby baboon clings to its mother in Kruger National Park in South Africa
Just look at that little baby’s face!

Phineas put his sixteen years of guiding experience to good use by spotting animals that we never would have seen on our own. This is why we say that the best way to see wildlife is by looking for Africa Tour Packages.

Our guide, Phineas, on our Kruger National Park Photo Safari in South Africa with Viator

Driving in Kruger National Park, South Africa

He also utilized his ability to speak 12 languages – from Afrikaans to Zulu (and German and English) – to talk with other guides about where to find animals, especially the elusive big cats.

As much as we were focused on rhinos, without a doubt lions are the main attraction at Kruger National Park.

However, they can be a bit reclusive so it is not uncommon for visitors to miss seeing them.

When he heard that two lions had been spotted Phineas hurried us to the area, only to find several other groups looking without any success.

After surveying the situation, he broke off from the pack and spotted the pair of predators lounging under a tree about a quarter of a mile away.

It was one of several times that we wished we had a tripod to get a better shot, but we made due steadying the camera on the truck.

While everyone else was looking for the cats further down the road, Phineas had a hunch that led us right to them.

Once we had enough time watching the lions undisturbed, Phineas kindly went back to alert the other guides to their location (it’s cool to be the ones in the know!) and headed off to lunch.

With lions, rhinos, and elephants already marked off our list in the morning, we needed only two more sightings to complete Africa’s Big 5.

An African Buffalo in Kruger National Park in South Africa

The five animals were chosen because of their desirability to hunters, and their dangerous nature.

They are considered the most aggressive and likely to attack or kill humans.

The next one for us to see, the African buffalo, came soon after our meal.

That left us with only the leopard to complete the set.

A hippo surrounded by birds at Kruger National Park, South Africa

Throughout the afternoon we saw more and more elephants, until we were calling this the day of a hundred elephants.

We also spotted even more rhinos, a jackal, crocodiles, hippos, wildebeest, a myriad of birds, zebras, a few warthogs, steenboks, and endless impalas… but no more cats.

Steenboks and impallas in Kruger National Park, South Africa
Steenboks and impala – Phineas calls them “fast food” – the impala even has the Golden Arches on his flank!

Not that it mattered, with so much to see we had pretty much forgotten about leopards.

A giraffe eating from the treetops in Kruger National Park in South Africa

In fact, we were pretty thrilled because we had observed, and photographed, all of our GypsyNester Big 5: giraffe, hippopotamus, rhinoceros, elephant, and zebra.

A zebra at Kruger National Park, South Africa

So as sundown drew near we headed for camp excitedly discussing what a great day it had been.

Beautiful sunset at Kruger National Park in South Africa

Then we crossed a bridge about a mile from camp and spotted a spotted cat slinking along the riverbed.

A river in Kruger National Park, South Africa

It was a leopard, meaning that we had seen all of the Big 5 in one day!

A leopard in Kruger National Park in South Africa

Phineas assured us that we truly were incredibly lucky, since this almost never happens.

A hornbill in Kruger National Park, South Africa
A hornbill at our camp.

By spending three days in the Park, we felt relaxed with the pace of our explorations.

It helped that the park has all of the necessary accommodations within its boundaries, which saved time and made us feel more connected to our surroundings.

Our cabin at Berg-En-Dal camp in Kruger National Park, South Africa

In the evenings, we sat on the patio of our cabin at the camp at Berg-En-Dal listening to the sounds of wild animals filling the air.

Pretty sweet, and hardly roughing it, with comfy beds and air conditioning, plus a full service restaurant featuring dining under the stars.

Our cabin and patio at Berg-En-Dal camp in Kruger National Park, South Africa

A kudo pot pie at the Berg-En-Dal camp restaurant in Kruger National Park in South Africa

In keeping with our exotic surroundings, the first night we ordered wild kudu cooked in a pot pie, and as a schnitzel.

We had never heard of kudu, but our verdict was that they are quite tasty.

Phineas explained that they are a large antelope that is very prevalent in the park, and sure enough, he hunted some down for us the next day.

A kudu in Kruger National Park in South Africa
The non-shaggy kudu
A kudu on Kruger National Park in South Africa
And the fancy shaggy kind!

At Kruger National Park in South Africa, we ate lunch while watching elephants and hippos in the nearby river!

The restaurant at the Kruger’s Lower-Sabie camp could be the best lunch location we’ve ever experienced.

Seated on the balcony overlooking the Sabie River, we watched hippos, elephants, crocs, and kudus visit for a drink or a bath.

There’s no beating it.

An elephant walks by a river in Kruger National Park, South Africa

Certainly these critters can be dangerous.

To ensure that there aren’t any unwelcome wildlife encounters, all of the camps in the park are fenced off to keep out razor-sharp toothed visitors.

It’s kind of like we humans were the ones in the zoo.

The sun turns into a big round ball every evening in Kruger National Park, South Africa
Every evening, the sun turned into a huge, perfectly round ball.

In addition to our time in Kruger, the drive back and forth from Johannesburg gave us a chance to learn about the history of South Africa and an opportunity to see a good bit of the country’s landscape.

The journey took us through vast, open farmland, rolling foothills, and forested mountains, which was not what we expected to find.

A warthog crosses the road between Johannesburg and Kruger National Park in South Africa
And the animals kept showing up – warthogs are faster than we imagined!
Vervet monkey in South Africa
A vervet monkey in a village along the way.

Phineas discussed everything with the knowledge that living in a place all of his life brings.

He was equally comfortable conversing about South Africa’s origins, politics, Nelson Mandela, and the nation’s rise from apartheid, as he was explaining the ecology and wildlife.

Taking a different route back to Johannesburg gave us the chance to pass through the mountains that we had seen from below on the way over.

Along the road from Johannesburg to Kruger National Park in South Africa

Pilgram's Rest in South Africa

We drove along Bushbuck Ridge, stopped off for an amazing panoramic view from God’s Window, headed over Robbers Pass, and had lunch in the well preserved old mining town of Pilgrim’s Rest.

We considered this all a bonus because the tour really was all about the animals.

As Phineas told us when we were entering the park on the first day, “It’s not a zoo, you never know what you’ll see.”

Well, as luck would have it, we saw it all.

David & Veronica, GypsyNester.com

Big thanks to Viator for providing this wondrous adventure! As always, all opinions are our own. To see more about this tour, click here.

See all of our adventures in Africa!

YOUR TURN: So how about our Phineas? Is he a font of knowledge or what? What is YOUR personal Big 5?

This post may contain sponsored links.