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Our Most Stupid/Funny Mistake: What Made Us Think We Could Ever Live in an RV?



We had just purchased our first motorhome, a beat-up old guy we named BAMF (as in Bad Ass MoFo), on eBay for $3,000. What could possibly go wrong? 

We found out on day one when David got into an uncomfortably sticky situation… CONTINUE READING >>

Excerpt from Going Gypsy: One Couple’s Adventure from Empty Nest to No Nest at All. Reprinted with permission from Skyhorse Publishing.

We had just purchased our first motorhome, a beat-up old guy we named BAMF (as in Bad Ass MoFo), on eBay for $3,000. What could possibly go wrong?

We found out on day one:

BAMF the RV Motorhome
BAMF

David was dealing with the outside stuff—replacing screws, tightening belts, and talking to mechanics. He would slide out from under our new rolling house covered in grease, grime, blood, and the waterproof caulk he was using to seal everything in his path. He was in hog heaven.

I was relieved that he was happy outside, where his bull-in-a-china-shop tendencies would do less harm.

But not for long.

We had ownership of our new toy just one day when the bull charged inside and broke the main overhead light fixture with a broom handle. It wasn’t a major deal, nothing that a skillfully placed dab of superglue couldn’t fix, and I am a master supergluer.

So we agreed that I would run over to the store for some glue while David promised to confine his work to the exterior of the RV. That way I could get the fixture fixed and things more organized indoors before the bull stampeded again. No telling what other broom handle–like destructive implements could be lurking about.

BAMF the RV Motorhome

I believe that David’s tendency to break things and injure himself is not because he is clumsy. He’s not. My theory is that it stems from the way he grew so tall, so fast, as a child. He never quite figured out his proportion to the world around him.

According to family lore, when he was in his thirteenth year, he was so skinny that his hands looked like olives on the end of toothpicks. It’s a challenge to overcome dimensions like that.

Back from my errand, with a sack of hardware goodies in hand, I opened the RV door to find David standing in the middle of the kitchen area, messing with the overhead light fixture. To add a little spice to the mix, the light was on. The man will never learn about electricity.

“I found some superglue.”

“I thought we agreed I would fix that.”

“But I found some glue, so I figured . . .”

“Well, turn the light off. You’re going to electrocute yourself.”

“I can’t.”

“Will you please just go outside?” I was trying really hard to keep my cool.

“I can’t.”

“Dammit! Stop saying you can’t and just go outside!”

“I can’t.”

“Why not?!”

David behind the wheel of BAMF

That was when I noticed the shreds of paper towel attached to his free hand and a few tatters clinging around the corners of his mouth.

His other hand was space-age-polymer-bonded to the overhead light fixture, which was now permanently secured in the ON position.

Luckily, we eventually pried David off the ceiling and found the gumption to take the show on the road!

Veronica, GypsyNester.com

YOUR TURN: And that was just day one! Can you believe we had the gumption to keep going?

We All Deserve a (Spring) Break

Why should kids in school be the only ones to get a break at this time of year?

We can’t think of a reason not to make a break of our own. After the grey and cold of the last few months we should go someplace sunny, fun, and tropical, but not too far away. That sounds like… CONTINUE READING > >

The following article was written by me on behalf of Choice Hotels and I was paid to write this post. However, the opinions are entirely my own.

Why should kids in school be the only ones to get a break at this time of year? We can’t think of a reason not to make a break of our own. After the grey and cold of the last few months we should go someplace sunny, fun, and tropical, but not too far away. That sounds like the Caribbean, of course!

Through the years we have had the opportunity to visit many of the islands, so we decided to investigate some new destinations. We began by looking just a few hundred miles south of Miami and found the Cayman Islands, some of the closest to the US.

We discovered an escape where colonial British charm mixes with a laidback tropical personality, making for a quick getaway that leaves the daily grind a million miles away. Days filled with diving, snorkeling, sailing, or simply sunbathing, followed by evenings toasting the sunset and enjoying international cuisine or a BBQ on the beach.

On Grand Cayman, Seven Mile Beach is the place to be for watersports and fun in the sun, as well as after-dark dining options, and the Comfort Suites® Seven Mile Beach hotel is right there. A perfect spot to unwind and let stress drift away by the pool, or better yet, in the whirlpool. Still, we might want to touch base with the real world from time to time, so free WiFi is always appreciated.

Looking a little farther south, we came upon the contrasting styles of Aruba and Curacao. Along with Bonaire, these islands are known as the ABC Islands, and although they sit only a few miles off of the South American coast, they are Dutch territory.

Unlike most Caribbean islands, Aruba and Curacao are quite arid, with cactus being more common than palm trees. This means it is almost always sunny. No April showers here, and that’s just what we’re looking for in a spring break… am I right?

The landscape is often compared to the American Southwest, but that’s not why Aruba is known as the Las Vegas of the Caribbean. Legend has it that this is where Caribbean Stud Poker was first played back in the ‘80s. Now over a dozen casinos line the stretch of beach along the northwest shore of the island and the La Cabana Beach Resort and Casino, an Ascend Hotel Collection® member, sits in the middle of them all.

But the casino doesn’t have the only games at La Cabana, we can choose from tennis, racquetball, basketball, volleyball or squash, and then nurse any sore muscles at the spa or step out the front door onto miles of white sand beach. We might never want to leave the resort, except that there’s wildlife right next door.

The Bubali Bird Sanctuary, a breeding ground for over eighty species of migratory birds, is just a few steps away. If we climb the observation tower for a birds’ eye view (ba dum ching!) we might see herons, egrets, coots, cormorants, and even the rare native Brown-throated Parakeet.

Aruba’s nearby neighbor, Curacao, is every bit as inviting, with a more laid back feel and a definite dash of Holland. The island’s connection to its Dutch heritage is distinctively apparent. Rows of buildings that look straight out of Amsterdam, except for their vibrant tropical pastel paint jobs, line the streets in the capital city of Willemstad.

The town was built around a natural deep water harbor that served as a favorite of pirates and traders for centuries. Willemstad remains the center of activity for Curacao, and the Acoya Hotel Suites & Villas, an Ascend Hotel Collection® member, is right in the heart of it. As much as we love an infinity pool with a poolside restaurant and bar, we are even more excited to find a great home base for exploring.

When the Dutch West India Company arrived in 1634, they built a series of eight forts to fend off the buccaneers as well as foreign powers. The main one, Fort Amsterdam, sits at the mouth of the harbor and is still in use today as the county’s capitol building. Five of the others can be found in various states of repair around the island.

Curacao is also home to two National Parks. They cover most of the north quarter of the island with Christoffel Park featuring historic sites such as three former plantations from the time of the Dutch growers, and the Boca Grandi cave paintings left by the Arawak Indians who originally inhabited these islands.

The adjacent Shete Boka National Park is all about the natural beauty of the sea shore. The name means seven inlets, and these coves are not only picturesque, they are a nesting area for three species of turtles. Nearby Playa Lagun is a perfect place to jump in the crystal clear Caribbean water and see myriads of colorful tropical fish, and maybe some of those turtles grownup.

Now that’s a break that will put the spring back in our step.

David & Veronica, GypsyNester.com

YOUR TURN: Are you ready for a Caribbean getaway?

Charms of the Chagga People of Tanzania

The Chagga family philosophy extends beyond their borders; they believe that all of humankind is family.

Our stay in the tiny village of Rau, near the foot of Mt. Kilimanjaro, immersed us in a culture that welcomed us as next of kin.

Follow your GypsyNesters as we travel deep into Tanzania, learning from the Chagga about dance and music, farming and playing, family and friendship… CONTINUE READING >>

A big thank you to Discover Corps for providing this cross-cultural opportunity so we can share their good work. As always, all opinions are our own.

Stunning Africa sunset in Tanzania

In many ways Africa is separated into tribes as much or more than countries.

In Tanzania there are over one hundred and twenty separate peoples represented and they often spread beyond the borders of any one country. The political boundaries were drawn fairly recently, and do not necessarily represent the traditional homelands of the various cultures.

Cattle on the road in the village of Rau, outside of Moshi in Tanzania, with Discover Corps

In the region we were visiting, the northern part of the country around Mt. Kilimanjaro and the city of Moshi, most all of the people are of the Chagga tribe.

The school in Rau, Tanzania has no electricity, so the kitchen is outside and food is cooked over an open fire

It is a goal of Discover Corps, and especially of our host Mama Simba that, in addition to our work at the school and experiencing the tourist highlights of the area, we feel connected to our surroundings and learn about the culture of the area.

A woman carries a heavy sack on her head in the village of Rau, near Moshi, in Tanzania. With Discover Corps.

Chagga men in the village of Rau in Tanzania

On our first full day at what we came to call homebase, we divided our group of vouluntourists into pairs and separated to share lunch with “host families” from nearby.

We met with local residents who wished to interact with visiting foreigners in a cultural exchange, with the hope of both sides learning more about each other.

Family is #1

Children of the orphanage in the village of Rau in Tanzania. With Discover Corps

The Chagga are a very family oriented people, and are extremely open in taking about relationships and family dynamics.

Mama Simba had spoken to us about this openness prior to lunchand explained to us that it could be uncomfortable for people of different backgrounds at times.

We loved that Mama Simba “warned” us – and she added that we weren’t there to change each other, but to learn about each other.

Chagga children in the village of Rau in Tanzania

She is adamant and passionate about her cross-cultural exchanges; no one is “coached” on either side about what to say or not to say.  If we are faking, we’re not being true to each other.

When our host families arrived, we introduced ourselves one by one.

There was a distinct difference in our narratives, our group tended to talk about our work and student lives, and our hosts spoke about their families.

Chagga children in the village of Rau in Tanzania

When one of our team members mentioned she was single, she was prodded to explain she was divorced, then was asked where her husband wasthere was much hemming and hawing and blushing…

But, because of Mama Simba’s kind explanation beforehand, we understood that our way of looking at things doesn’t necessarily hinge on right and wrongand we easily chalked up the questions to societal differences.

In fact, we embraced it.

Cross cultural connections with Discover Corps in Tanzania

The Chagga family philosophy extends beyond their borders; they believe that all of humankind is family. That sweet, gentle nosiness brought us all closer together.

We shared our meal with Robert and Andrew, a father and son, and struck up a conversation.

Robert told us he works as an engineer for the Tanzanian Agricultural Ministry in the capital city of Dodoma and his son, Andrew, was just out of university.

Learning About Our Village

A small girl shows Veronica the points of interest in a village near Moshi, Tanzania, Africa
Our homebase ambassador, Melinda, shares her village with Veronica.

Walking through the village of Rau, outside of Moshi, Tanzania. With Discover Corps

After swapping typical pleasantries and family talk over lunch, we began to feel comfortable and delved into the deeper questions as they led us on a walk through their village of Rau, where we began to get a feel for day-to-day life.

See more about the village of Rau

Market place in the village of Rau, outside of Moshi, in Tanzania, Africa. Discover Corps

Market place in the village of Rau, outside of Moshi, in Tanzania, Africa. Discover Corps

Much of the daily routine has remained in keeping with Chagga tradition.

For example, when we passed the stands selling produce and clothing along the road they were tended by women.

That is typical as it is the custom for women to cook, sew, tend to the home, and do the trading in the marketplace.

tanzania-lounge

Home and Family Life

A toddler eats a coconut in Tanzania, Africa. With Discover Corps

When we visited Robert’s home we saw more of the traditional Chagga lifestyle.

In the courtyard his mother, wife, and daughter were sewing, preparing food, washing dishes, and grating coconutpractices passed down from generation to generation.

The youngest family member was having quite a time feasting on the tasty remnants left in the shells, sort of the tropical version of licking the cake batter spoon.

A woman sews in a courtyard in the village of Rau in Tanzania, Africa, with Discover Corps

Robert’s house was grouped together with those of his uncle’s and brother’s families, each surrounded by a plot of land planted with corn, vegetables, and fruit trees, especially bananas.

Goats, pigs, cattle, and chickens are raised among the crops and fed from the silage.

Groups of farms such as these, have long been the foundation of settlements for the Chagga people.

A pig in the village of Rau, outside of Moshi, Tanzania

It was harvest season for corn, so the grain was being stripped and dried for grinding, while the leaves and stalks are kept to feed cattle and hogs.

Having grown up in farm country, David asked about storage of feed for the animals and got into an interesting conversation.

Robert was completely confused by David’s question, and as soon as he tried to explain he understood why.

Our Discover Corps team pitches in to help the school that we are volunteering in pick corn for their lunches in Tanzania!

Without thinking he said, “How do you store it for the winter?”

A pretty dumb thing to say standing a stone’s throw from the equator, but it led to David explaining how a large part of farming in a colder climate is involved with planning for winter.

This opened quite a discussion on methods and techniques.

See more about the village of Rau

Stunning Africa acacia tree sunset in Tanzania

Song and Dance

Chagga woman in traditional garb in Tanzania, Africa

A Chagga women in Tanzania, Africa

Coffee has long been a staple and a cash crop for the Chagga, and on one afternoon we had the chance to visit a small coffee grower’s farm.

When we pulled up in our little bus we were once again greeted with song and dance.

The group of traditionally dressed dancers invited us to sit for a moment, and then to join in.

Dancers from the Chagga tribe of Tanzania

We did our best to mimic the subtle movements, and probably were laughably horrible at it but, as family, we were accepted in the festivities as such. We were lightly teased and given special attention until we got the hang of it.

Chagga woman in traditional garb are dancing in Tanzania, Africa

Ripening coffee beans in Tanzania, Africa

When the festivities died down a bit, we followed the owner of the farm into a grove of large banana trees.

As we walked he pointed out the squatty bushes growing beneath the trees.

Stopping at a large example, he explained how the plants work together in a copacetic arraignment.

A goat eats banana leaves in Tanzania, Africa

Coffee likes shade, and the banana trees provide it and hold moisture in the soil.

The process is completed when leaves from the banana trees are fed to goats, producing fertilizer for the soil.

The circle of life.

When ripe, the deep red beans of the coffee plant are cleaned, then dried for a day.

Veronica learns how to roast coffee beans over an open fire in Tanzania with Discover Corps

The husks are then removed, leaving only the dry inner bean.

Our host tossed some of these into a cast iron pan to roast over an open fire.

In twenty or thirty minutes they were ready and we took turns grinding them in a large wooden mortar and pestle.

David and Gladys prepare coffee beans in Tanzania with Discover Corps
David and homebase ambassador, Gladys, show us how it’s done!

Next thing we knew we were drinking fresh brewed coffee.

See more about the coffee farm

The People

A Chagga woman carries her baby on her back in Tanzania, Africa. With Discover Corps

For Veronica, the most captivating part of this field trip was the people around her.

As the drummers and dancers continued to play, the music and revelry drew a small group of curious local children.

Veronica was drawn to them like a bee to a flower.

Chagga children in Tanzania, Africa. With Discover Corps.

Shy at first, these cuties ran to hide in the bush until she wooed them with her camera and a promise to playback video snippets of themselves playing.

Soon the game turned into a rollicking good time and friends were called for to join in the fun.

Props were then brought out by the children for more and more dramatic footage.

Chagga children roll tires in Tanzania, Africa. With Discover Corps

When it was time to leave, Mama Simba had to drag Veronica away from the children and onto the bus.

Chagga children roll tires in Tanzania, Africa. With Discover Corps

See more about our fun at the coffee farm

More Song and Dance

The Kilimanjaro Wizards Arts Group in Moshi, Tanzania, Africa. With Discover Corps

At homebase the next day we were treated to a wild, upbeat performance by the Kilimanjaro Wizards Arts Group.

This troupe incorporates intricate rhythms on drums and marimba while the dancer’s portray story lines.

The Kilimanjaro Wizards Arts Group in Moshi, Tanzania, Africa. With Discover Corps

The Kilimanjaro Wizards Arts Group in Moshi, Tanzania, Africa. With Discover Corps

A complete hunt was played out before our eyes, the men taking down their prey, celebrating and slaughtering the kill, then eating the flaming internal organs.

Afterwards, the women came to congratulate the men and carry away the butchered meat.

Song and dance was a common thread throughout our activities; it is an integral part of Chagga life.

Whether it is part of a planned performance such as the two we experienced, or completely spontaneous as it was many other times, it always ended up with everyone invited to participate.

Chagga drummer in Tanzania, Africa

The Kilimanjaro Wizards Arts Group in Moshi, Tanzania, Africa. With Discover Corps

Jumping up to dance is well outside of our usual day-to-day norm, especially for David, who has always compared his dancing skills to those of a circus bear balancing on a ball.

But after only a few days he learned to let go of his inhibitions and join in on the joyful gyrations.

Embarrassment be damned.

Up Mt. Kilimanjaro

Village kids on Mount Kilimanjaro in Tanzania, Africa

Africa’s highest mountain, Kilimanjaro, plays a vital role in Chagga life as its slopes provide proper soil, moisture, and weather for the farming that has sustained them for centuries.

A few thousand feet up the climate becomes a cool and wet rainforest.

The fertile ground means they use much less land, which has shaped their lifestyles drastically when compared to the tribes living in the hot, arid desert below.

A village on Mount Kilimanjaro in Tanzania, Africa

As we climbed the massive mountain, OK only half way up, we encountered even better examples of the family clusters of farms.

These hillside versions are more secluded than the groups down in the village of Rau, and incorporated the small, terraced fields that are more representative of the old manner of Chagga farming.

A Chagga woman carries a huge bundle on her head on the way up Mt. Kilimanjaro in Tanzania

While almost of our time in Tanzania was spent in the area populated by the Chagga people, once we finished teaching and refurbishing our classroom in Rau, we spent a few days on safari in the region to the west of Kilimanjaro which is dominated by the Maasai people.

It was remarkable how completely their customs and traditions differ from the Chagga living only a few miles away.

More about our assault on Kilimanjaro!

What’s Important

While working at the school, were moved by a little one who had a tiny ball of rice. Instead of eating it by herself, she shared with many other children.

We were moved by this small child in Tanzania who had a tiny ball of rice. Instead of eating it by herself, she shared with many other children

When we related to Mama Simba what we had witnessed, she explained to us the concept of chakula ni mavi – food is nothing; remember what is important.

Food is always shared and given freely.

Local Chagga legend has it that if anyone offers this plant to someone they have wronged, the slighted party is expected to forgive and forget. We couldn't decide if it is a lovely way to keep the peace, or a way too easy get out of jail free card.
A Chagga apology: Local legend has it that if anyone offers this to someone they have wronged, the slighted party is expected to forgive and forget.

Before leaving Tanzania we met with our host family again.

This time Robert was at work in the capital city of Dodoma, so Andrew asked if we would like to meet some of his friends.

We walked to his favorite watering hole and had a great time drinking a few beers and talking with these young men. (Kilimanjaro, our favorite Tanzanian brew, and not just for their slogan: If You Can’t Climb It, Drink It.)

Kilimanjaro, if you can't climb it, drink it!

All of our new friends were fresh from university and anxiously eyeing what lay ahead in life.

In the course of the conversation they learned that we had lived in Nashville, and that had David played music there.

Immediately the discussion took a surprising turn to old American Country songs.

One of our friends family members, Richard, knew tons of hits from back in the ’70s and ‘80s, so the walk back through the village became a jovial sing-along of Don Williams, Dolly Parton, and Kenny Rogers tunes.

David sings with his friends in Tanzania. GypsyNester.com

You got to know when to hold ‘em Know when to fold ‘em…  Islands in the stream, that is what we are… Livin’ on Tulsa time, livin’ on Tulsa time…

By the time we made it to homebase we were all laughing till it hurt.

A cross cultural, and generational, connection if there ever was one.

David & Veronica, GypsyNester.com

A big thank you to Discover Corps for providing this moving cross-cultural opportunity so we can share their good work. As always, all opinions are our own.

Delve Deeper:
See our Tanzanian adventure from the very beginning
See more about our time working at the school
Looking for more Chagga culture? Check out how the stunning batik silhouettes are made
Click to see all of our adventures in Africa!

YOUR TURN: We’re so pleased to introduce you to our new friends! What do you think?

How We Stay in Touch With Loved Ones While Traveling

We’re often asked how we stay in touch with our adult kids as we travel.

Yes, our phone conversations with family and friends almost always begin with the question, Where are you guys?

Honestly, in the days before cell phones and the internet, we’re not sure how anyone would have been able to stay connected while leading the lifestyle we’ve chosen… CONTINUE READING >>

We’re often asked how we stay in touch with our adult kids as we travel.

Honestly, in the days before cell phones and the internet, we’re not sure how anyone would have been able to stay connected while pursuing the lifestyle we have chosen.

Mostly because our phone conversations with family and friends almost always begin with the question “Where are you guys?

Those of us who have reached a certain age remember the days of sky-high long distance rates. Heck, I still pick up the cell phone and listen for a dial tone on a regular basis.

But the times are not only a-changin’, the sci-fi future of our black-&-white-TV childhood is here.

Back in the B.C. (Before Code-a-phones) days — no answering machines or voicemail — calling our folks involved setting a time during the cheaper late-night or weekend rates and then having fast-paced conversations highlighting only the most important news. Always with a clock ticking in the back of our minds to remind us of the fortune it was costing us.

How to Stay in Touch with Loved Ones While Traveling

Ma Bell may have charged by the minute (and the mile) at home, but it was always way worse when traveling. I seem to recall little cards by the hotel phones that said “Dial 9 to double your bill.”

That may be a bit of an exaggeration. But the fact remains that these days staying in contact while away from home is not only much easier, it’s way cheaper too.

Dragging Ourselves into the Modern World

Now we never have to be out of touch just because we’re on the road. Our phone is always there, with us wherever we roam, and can do much more than just place a call.

Decibel's text reaction to Mommy paragliding in Lima Peru
Our favorite text from Decibel right before we went paragliding

We can send a text message or an e-mail right from the palm of our hand.

Oftentimes we simply send a photo of something funny we see along the way.

If that’s not personal enough we also have live video chat capability through serves like Skype or Facetime, so seeing our adult kids while wandering the globe is not only possible, it’s simple.

These services are generally reliable for us throughout The States, but can vary depending on the provider. One thing to remember though, it is very important to check with your service provider before any foreign trip because fees for using your U.S. phone outside of the U.S. can be crazy high.

Veronica keeps in touch with family from a hammock in Mexico. GypsyNester.com
Keeping in touch from a hammock in Mexico.

Most providers offer add-on packages for various countries, so it is definitely worth checking to be certain your destination is on the plan you chose.

Be sure to ask exactly what is covered, because text and web usage are not always included in a phone plan – an extra data package is often required.

Then, double-check because the charges, especially for Internet services, can make for a very unpleasant welcome-home surprise.

How We Use Our Phones Overseas

If we are on a longish overseas trip, we sometimes buy a pre-paid phone for in-country calls. It’s usually cheap, and it gives us a local phone number. Another method is to buy a sim card, but be sure to check that your phone isn’t locked to your at-home provider before you go. They almost always are.

We generally don’t go the sim card route because we prefer to keep our U.S. cell phone available if The Spawn or our parents want to contact us. When you change cards you get a new number and your old phone number won’t work anymore.

While smart phones are little modern marvels, for typing out emails we prefer a bigger keyboard and screen. Our tablets are small enough to fit in our carry-ons and to take on the go, yet still do everything the big behemoths do. Including worldwide video link-ups for face-to-face chats.

Veronica keeps in touch with family from The Galapagos Islands. GypsyNester.com
Staying in touch in The Galapagos Islands.

But video can have its drawbacks. The comfort factor isn’t always there. Veronica still can’t do it without getting all dolled up first. So things must be prepared for and planned with the precision of a live television broadcast. There are camera angles to lay out, lighting scenes to test, sound levels to check, and hair and makeup touch ups, until we end up with production values somewhere between a broadcast of the evening news and the Academy Awards show.

Just kidding, but seriously, nobody wants to be seen by anybody, on any camera, in any time zone first thing in the morning. Still this Star Trekesque technology of global video connections is nothing short of amazing, and ready for our close ups or not, we love it.

How We Always have Wifi Domestically and Overseas

Keeping in touch in Queensland, Australia
Keeping in touch in Queensland, Australia.

But we need WiFi to take advantage of these capabilities.

Not a problem, as most hotels and airports, many restaurants, and even airplanes now have WiFi available.

And if there’s no WiFi around in the States, several providers offer portable hotspots that create a wireless connection from a cell phone signal.

Ours does it right from our iPhone — talk about don’t leave home without it — we never do.

When we’re overseas, we use a pre-paid portable hotspot, so we have reliable internet anywhere – without losing our minds or our shirts.

All in all, there has never been a time when keeping in touch was easier.

I might still pick up a cell phone and listen for a dial tone from time-to-time, but I can’t remember the last time I had to dial 9.

David, GypsyNester.com

YOUR TURN: Questions? Comments? Further tips? Let ’em fly!

Seeking the Secrets of Siracusa, Sicily

Syracuse holds many secretslayers upon layers of history have seen to that.

Jutting out far into the ocean, Siracusa has been held close by the ancient Greeks and Romans, gathers beauty from her artists (and a guy who left a secret lizard behind!)…

So many secrets that it takes a god’s ear to hear them all… CONTINUE READING >>

Syracuse, Sicily from across the bay
Siracusa jutting out to sea from across the gulf.

While riding our bikes around southeastern Sicily we saw Siracusa from inside and out. The name is the same as the city in New York, which uses the Anglicized version, Syracuse, but the two couldn’t be more different.

Our first views of what was once one of the Mediterranean’s most powerful cities came when we rode across the peninsula that forms the southern edge of the Gulf of Siracusa. Rounding the point revealed fantastic views of the ancient fortifications across the bay.

The first snow of the year on Mt. Etna in Sicily, Italy
Snow covered volcano: Mount Etna

The old town of Siracusa, Sicily, Italy

The old city, located on the island of Ortygia at the opposite tip of the bay, was stunning.

It stood out starkly against the backdrop of snow covered Mount Etna, and a foreground of the Ionian Sea.

On that day we would only see it from afar, much like its founding Spartan and Corinthian Greek sailors when sailing in and out.

The view from our balcony at the Livingstone Hotel in Syracuse, Sicily, Italy
The view from our balcony at the Livingstone Hotel with waves crashing against the seawall.

The next morning we would enter and stay a while.

Muffalettu sandwich in Syracuse, Sicily, Italy
Muffalettu: Sardines, olives, sundried tomatos and ricotta salata.

After riding about 150 miles on our trust steeds over the past ten days, our VBT bikes were safely tucked away for the last day of the tour.

We set out walking and it felt good for a change, a break for our backsides.

Our goal was the Neapolis Archaeological Park on the mainland, which contains several of Sicily’s most famous historic sites, but in just a few blocks came to a square and decided to sit for an al fresco coffee and sandwich.

See more about the food in Sicily!

The piazza dedicated to Archimedes in Siracuse, Sicily, Italy

As we took in the fountain and surroundings, we noticed that this unassuming little piazza was dedicated to perhaps the greatest Ancient Greek mathematician, physicist, engineer, inventor, astronomer, and engineer in history, Archimedes.

Wonder if he feels like he got screwed, while a cute little piazza, we think he might have expected to get a little more for all of his gifts to mankind.

Digging Down to the Old Stuff

The Temple of Apollo, Syracuse, Sicily, Italy

The Temple of Apollo, Siracusa, Sicily, Italy

Before reaching the Neapolis, we found another important site just before we crossed the bridge to the mainland, The Temple of Apollo.

This Greek temple dates all the way back to the sixth century B.C., making it the oldest on Sicily.

Now the ruins stand surrounded by city, but with a little imagination we could almost see the toga-wearing worshipers weaving among the columns.

The Temple of Apollo, Syracuse, Sicily, Italy

Mainland Treasures
Crossing the bridge to the mainland in Syracuse, Sicily, Italy
Crossing the bridge to the mainland.

Church of St. Thomas in Syracuse, Sicily. This octagonal tower is commonly called the Pantheon by locals.

We couldn’t help but notice another place of worship looming across the bridge, the Church of St. Thomas.

This octagonal tower is commonly called the Pantheon by the locals and was built just after World War I as a monument to the fallen of the war.

Many of the soldiers that perished are entombed inside the chapel.

Roman Ruins

The Roman Amphitheatre of Syracuse, Sicily, Italy

The Roman Amphitheatre of Syracuse, Sicily, Italy

Walking a another kilometer or so, we began our exploration of the Archaeological Park at the Roman Amphitheatre, built nearly two thousand years ago in the time of Nero.

Although much of the stone was taken away over the years and used on other buildings, at one time this looked much like the famous colosseum in Rome.

It was also used in the same way, for gladiators and spectacular shows.

Get us to the Greek

The Greek Theatre of Syracuse, Sicily, Italy

The Greek Theatre of Syracuse, Sicily, Italy

Wanting to stay in the theater district, we climbed to the Greek Theatre – built some five centuries before the Roman ruins.

This is one of the largest such venues ever made by the ancient Greeks.

Again much of the structure has succumbed to the ravages of time, but enough remains intact that it is still used for performances on a regular basis.

Listening In

The Ear of Dionysius in Syracuse, Sicily, Italy

Near the theater is an ancient quarry known as the Latomia del Paradiso.

As stone was cut away for construction projects, caves were cut into the rock walls.

Many of these were used as prisons, with the most famous being the Ear of Dionysius.

The enormous cavern is 76 feet high and 214 feet deep, but only 25 feet wide.

The name may come from the shape of the cave but, having heard the acoustics from the inside, we think that it has more to do with the amazing sound qualities of the cave.

Either that, or it was a great coincidence!

The Ear of Dionysius in Syracuse, Sicily, Italy

While we were standing all of the way inside, at the very back — in the pitch dark — a guide for one of the visiting groups began to sing an aria. Her reverberating voice was nothing short of incredibile, and the cave sounded like a cathedral.

Back on Island

An approaching afternoon rain shower gave us a good excuse for a nap, so we grabbed a cab back to our hotel.

Hotel Livingston in Syracuse, Sicily, Italy
Just what we needed after a week on bikes – Hotel Livingstone

Waves crashing against the sea wall in Siracusa, Sicily, Italy

After relaxing in the much-appreciated jacuzzi tub — which David was praying for on a daily basis during our bike tour — and watching folks braving the angry seas on the sea wall from our balcony, we made our way deeper into the old city.

With darkness falling we walked along the sea wall — dodging puddles and great mounds of seafoam accumulated on the path — for a great view of the Castello Maniace on the tip of the island.

Waves crashing against Castello Maniace in Syracuse, Sicily, Italy

Huge waves were crashing against the walls, but not to worry, they’ve been doing it for centuries. The fortress was built in 1232 by the Holy Roman Emperor Frederick II, but the name comes from the original fort that was built in 1038 by the Greek general George Maniakes.

Making a half circle around the southern side of Ortygia Island, we walked on and passed the Fonte Aretusa.  This fountain strangely produces freshwater only a few meters from the seashore.

Building upon Buildings

The Duomo of Syracuse, Sicily was built atop the Temple of Athena and the columns from the temple can still be seen!

The main plaza of Siracusa, the Piazza del Duomo’s cathedral dominates the square was built in the seventh century by bishop Zosimo on top of the Temple of Athena that had stood on the spot since the fifth century BC.

Poking around the corner to the left side, we found columns from the original temple that were incorporated into the walls of the church.

The Duomo of Syracuse, Sicily was built atop the Temple of Athena and the columns from the temple can still be seen!

Church of Santa Lucìa alla Badìa in Syracuse, Sicily, Italy

We couldn’t help but notice that, unlike most piazzas, this one features two churches.

On the far end of the plaza stands the Church of Santa Lucìa alla Badìa.

This, as with so many structures in Sicily, was constructed in the Baroque style after the huge 1693 earthquake. Santa Lucia is the patron saint of Siracusa, and the church is home to the masterpiece The Burial of St. Lucy by Caravaggio.

Palazzo Municipale, the city hall, in Siracusa, Sicily, Italy

The architect, Juan Vermexio, was involved in building both churches, but we were more intrigued by a little secret friend that he left hiding in the plaza.

Juan’s nickname was Il Lucertolone which means the lizard, and many times he would carve a small stone likeness on his buildings.

Now it was our job to find him. A quest!

The secret lizard on the City Hall of Syracuse, Sicily, Italy

In 1629 Vermexio built the Palazzo Municipale, the city hall, so we knew where to start.

Scanning the carving along the cornice we found him, a little lizard just below the roof in a corner.

The whole building is hiding another secret too; it stands on top of a temple known as the Couch of Artemis, the god that Ortygia was dedicated to.

Piazza del Duomo in Syracuse, Sisily, Italy

From the piazza we began working our way through the maze of tiny streets – hopefully in the general direction of our hotel.  We could hardly wait to close our eyes and let our dreams float us through the centuries of history we had seen.

Our senses were filled with the secrets of Siracusa.

David & Veronica, GypsyNester.com

DELVE DEEPER:
How did we hang on our bicycle tour? See it from the beginning!
See all about the food in Sicily!
See all of our adventures in Italy!

A big thank you to VBT Bicycling and Walking Vacations for providing this adventure where we could tour AND eat all the delicious Sicilian food we wanted to without worrying about the calorie count! As always, all opinions are our own.

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