We moved in to the California Zephyr’s Dome Car and set up camp for this leg of the trip. The sides and ceiling of the car are covered in ginormous windows, providing the best sightseeing on the train. Add in the stacked rocks of the Colorado canyons -bliss. For more: https://www.gypsynester.com/amtrak2.htm
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We’ve learned very quickly that train travel is a very social experience – trains have… CONTINUE READING>>
We’ve learned very quickly that train travel is a very social experience — trains have club cars, dining cars and dome lounges, all very conducive to socializing! In our coach seats, we met everyone around us, shared tourist info, train riding tips and tales, even books and snacks.
Week one of our crazy 15-day Amtrak Rail Pass. Chicago to California via Santa Fe.
Ride along with us as we show you the ins-and-outs of train travel, eat in Santa Fe, hang out with Michael Jackson in Hollywood, and get caught in a wicked storm that stopped the train!
Loads of video and interviews, including David’s “tour” of couch seating… CONTINUE READING >>
Briefcases with essentials. Stuff we carry with us at all times.
Canvas tote with neck and regular pillows, blanket, eye masks, ear plugs, playing cards, books — and sleep stuff.
Everything attaches to: Rolling carry-on bags packed with “replaceable items” like clothes, toiletries, etc.
You can travel lighter with internet access and Cloud products from CloudDesktopOnline.com and CloudAppsPortal.com . Access your Windows apps and files from anywhere with mobile devices.
1:40 PM They still have lockers at train stations! For three dollars an hour we purchased some peace of mind and were able to walk around downtown Chicago without dragging our luggage behind us.
Weird fact: You have to provide your fingerprints to use.
1:45 PM We popped out of the train station and this is what we saw!
Chicago
The Windy City, the one with the broad shoulders, Second City baby. We were right on the Chicago River across from the Sears — uh, Willis — Tower.
Romped around, pointed, oohed and awed, had lunch and headed back in to catch our overnight train.
2:45 PM On the train! We snagged the ONLY seat in our train car with a power outlet! Shhhh…don’t tell anyone, the conductor just announced that the ONLY outlets were downstairs in the lounge. We don’t want to start a riot!
3:10 PM Left Chicago on time!
3:15 PM No Wifi from Amtrak, but we have an at&t laptop connect wireless card and so far it’s GREAT (of course we’re still basically in Chicago). VERY civilized!
Day One: Chicago to Kansas City
Out the Window
5:00 PM Beautiful pastoral scenery. Blue skies, rolling green fields — Illinois out the window.
6:00 PM Galesburg, Illinois — Birthplace of poet Carl Sandburg and the site of the Lincoln-Douglas 1858 debate… but most of all, Railroad Days. Would have loved to stop to take this place in, but alas, only 14 more days to make it to the West Coast and back and so far we are sticking right to the timetable.
Out the Window
6:45 PM Outside of Fort Madison, Iowa In the dome car for a cocktail and some fabulous vista watching, when BAM!, all heck started breaking loose! The train was halted due to high wind and flash floods… so much for the old timetable.
The Amtrak staff was wonderful and kept us safe and up-to-date on the situation.
WATCH: Just how hard does the wind need to blow to stop a train?
Pretty dad-blame hard is the correct answer.
Out the Window
We neglected to mention the name of this train yesterday. We are on Amtrak’s train #3, the west bound Southwest Chief. The name dates back to the golden era of train travel when the luxury long haul routes all had groovy names.
This route was the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railroad’s Super Chief. I took it a few times as a kid and the main thing that stuck in my brothers and my mind was how cool it was that you could stick your shoes in this little box outside your sleeper and they would magically be shined in the morning. I’ll have to look into whether that still happens.
Day Two: Kansas City to Santa Fe
6:10 AM Get out of Dodge. Woke up looking out the window at Wyatt Earp Street in Dodge City Kansas.
7:50 AM Going for the second cup of joe as we cross the Kansas – Colorado state line. What happened to all the trees?
8:25 AM Rainbow with wind generators as the pot ‘o gold in eastern Colorado. Mountains are just coming into view.
12:00 PM Opted to eat in the dining car. Passengers make reservations a few hours in advance for lunch and dinner. Breakfast is first come, first serve.
Lunch options included a Chipotle Black Bean and Corn Veggie Burger, an Angus Steak Burger, regional sandwich and entree specials and a veggie salad. Beer, wine and cocktails are served and lunch runs between $6 and $9, including coffee, tea or milk. Served on linen, quite civilized!
Folks on the Train
We learned very quickly that train travel is a very social experience — trains have club cars, dining cars and dome lounges, all very conducive to socializing! In our coach seats, we met everyone around us, shared tourist info, train riding tips and tales, even books and snacks. We will interview some of the wonderful folks along the way and share them here.
WATCH: This wonderful gentleman explains to us why he travels ONLY by train!
A cafe car is available throughout the day with the usual downscale microwave cuisine, cereal, chips and drinks.
Out the Window
12:10 PM Antelope! It’s a meal and a show! They are everywhere! We were starting to wonder if they really did play out here, not hearing many discouraging words, either.
WATCH: Veronica sneak attacks a sleeping David to get a video of the coach seating situation. He was an awfully good sport as we had been on the train for 24 hours straight!
2:20 PM Arrive Lamy, New Mexico — on time! We must have made up the time that we lost in the storm overnight. Catching the shuttle van into Santa Fe.
Santa Fe is our longest layover — we will be on the train with just a few overnights after this!
What a great town! Jam-packed with galleries, adobe and amazing southwestern food!
“The Inexplicable Stairs” is a must see in Santa Fe! The staircase has no supporting pole, has three hundred steps and makes two full 360-degree turns stumping architects and engineers to this day.
In 1873 a gothic chapel was built for the nuns of the local parish. Beautiful as it was, it was stupidly built without access to the choir loft. The only solution was to either install ladders (not a great choice for the singing nuns!) or tear the chapel down and start from scratch.
So the Sisters did what they do best — they prayed for a miracle.
The legend says that a unknown man showed up on a donkey and offered to build a staircase with the only tools he had — a hammer, a saw and a T-square.
Intrigued by the Native American wares hawked on blankets in front of the Palace of the Governors – the oldest public building in the US, built in 1610.
Day Six: Albuquerque to Los Angeles
11:20 AM Leaving Santa Fe (on time!) on the New Mexico Rail Runner to rejoin the Southwest Chief to Los Angeles. It adds $7 each to our trip, but well worth it!
The train itself is very whimsical with a speedy looking roadrunner emblazoned on its cars in the colors of the sun. Instead of an alarm sounding when the doors close, a fanciful “beep, beep” is heard. Yes, Santa Fe is where Chuck Jones got the inspiration for the Road Runner cartoons.
Ironically, even though the classic AT&SF railroad was commonly referred to as “The Santa Fe,” the mainline never came to the city because the terrain was too forbidding. That’s why Amtrak doesn’t actually come into Santa Fe and a shuttle or Rail Runner ride is required.
12:03 AM Passing through the Native American pueblo community of the Kewa tribe. Adobe villages, farms and ranches are nestled into a beautiful valley. We’d love to post a picture, but the residents respectfully ask that photos not be taken, as their land is sacred.
12:50 PM Albuquerque! We didn’t make a wrong turn. Tossed our stuff into a locker at the depot and took a walk down Route 66 toward the historical Old Town Plaza.
The quirky mixture of the adobe and faux-dobe buildings with retro 66 signs made for a fun, but sun-beating-down-upon us desert stroll.
Found green chile and big, puffy, hollow, pipping-hot sopapillas dripping with honey at La Placita at the Hacienda Casa De Armijo in Old Town.
Built in 1706, the courtyard room has a large shade tree that shoots straight through the ceiling.
3:00 PM Took in Old Town Albuquerque. The plaza is dominated by San Felipe De Neri, the oldest church in town, founded in 1706.
The twin spires really stand out among the rest of the squatty adobe buildings filled with galleries, restaurants and tourist-centric businesses surrounding the square.
Back on the Chief
Out the Window
6:50 PM Arizona.The desert is surprisingly green, quite a bit of rain lately, in fact we just passed through a shower.
7:30 PM The remaining clouds make for a spectacular sunset.
Day Seven: Los Angeles
Folks on the Train
Our favorite train attendant so far! Meet Francis — a whirlwind of fun — and train attendant extraordinaire!
Her infectious smile lights up the coach section and can turn even the grumpiest morning, not-had-my-coffee-yet person into little miss sunshine!
11:50 AM Arriving in LA’s Union Station, utterly exhausted.
Need sleep that doesn’t the involve moving of train cars. Must have a nap before we attack Hollywood with a vengeance.
3:00 PM The Hollywood and Vine station on the Red Line Subway — more trains, yay! The ceiling is covered with real movie reels. Just out of our midday comas, this is vertigo inducing stuff.
Spent the entire fifteen minute underground trip trying not to think about earthquakes.
5:00 PM Hollywood, ba-by! We’re on a quest to find the “real” Hollywood. The sleep deprivation is manifesting into weirdness, but what a better place to be than Hollywood shooting a video when you’re feeling a bit weird?
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Outside of Fort Madison, Iowa In the dome car, when BAM!, all hell started breaking… CONTINUE READING>>
Outside of Fort Madison, Iowa In the dome car, when BAM!, all hell started breaking loose! The train was halted due to high wind and flash floods… so much for the old timetable. More on our Amtrak 15-Day Rail Pass Live Blog: https://www.gypsynester.com/amtrak.htm
enlarge video
We asked a wonderful lady – traveling with a group of Red Hatters – what happened when she was 5 hours late getting into… CONTINUE READING>>
We asked a wonderful lady – traveling with a group of Red Hatters – what happened when she was 5 hours late getting into Chicago on Amtrak. For more info: https://www.gypsynester.com/amtrak.htm
We rounded the corner and stood face-to-face with a large box containing several firehose-like nozzles protruding from one side, and a bevy of levers, knobs, pedals, valves, gauges and dials on the other. The whole room was tiled and waterproofed, so obviously the idea was to soak down the patient until whatever afflicted them drowned — or begged for mercy. Hey, we’d be begging as soon as Igor… CONTINUE READING >>
The “healing waters” of Hot Springs, Arkansas have been attracting the ailing and agile alike for centuries.
And Veronica was one of them, chomping at the bit for a bit of pampering, a massage and an inside look at one of the world-famous bathhouses.
But first, a stop at one of those cheesy tourist diversions we’re so fond of.
Hot Springs is not exactly the big city, but I wouldn’t call it tiny either. It is however, home to Tiny Town.
More than just a town, Tiny Town is its own little world, all made out of cast off scraps, odds and ends, whatchamacallits and whatnot gathered by Frank Moshinskie over decades, then recycled into a wondrous miniature landscape.
Frank began building the scenes as a teenager and never stopped.
Tucked away in an old residential corner of Hot Springs, we found Tiny Town well off the beaten path.
Since Frank has passed on to his reward — to the not-so-tiny town in the sky — the presentation is carried on by his son and daughter-in-law, Charles and Barbara Moshinskie.
Barbara was there to greet us and promptly began the story of how the collection grew and took on a life of its own.
Everything from old west storefronts to modern airports come to life as the scenes are animated with elaborate systems of cables and pulleys.
Frank connected the conglomeration to discarded motors from junked washing machines, old barbeque rotisseries, defunct record players — anything he could get his hands on.
Through the years he recreated his family and friends — and celebrities — to populate his little world. We had to look close, but sure enough, there were Dolly Parton and Willie Nelson walking along with Mr. T. Now that’s not something we see everyday!
As we made our way around the display, Barbara pointed out the highlights. She kindly included us in the show, Push that button in front of you.
We did, and a part of the town sprang into motion. Push another and trains begin to roll. Hey, who doesn’t like that?
Hog heaven, I’d say. Veronica practically had to pry me away from playing master-of-all-I-surveyed. Starting and stopping the Ferris Wheel, the guy chopping wood, an airplane, cars, dogs barking — yes– I was controlling anything that moved.
I could turn on lights in the houses and buildings — even in an outhouse — there was no stopping me.
Barbara didn’t mind, she’d seen it all before. Everyone, regardless of age, is transformed into a kid at Tiny Town. I think Frank would be happy.
Once my fingers began to ache, I started to snap out of the trance. Veronica, still bit-chomping, was ready for some bathhouse babying. She had a point — I pried my trigger finger away to go check out the springs, since they are the whole reason Hot Springs exists.
Humans have been taking in the waters of Hot Springs for their healing powers as far back as history can record. Long before Hernando de Soto came along to claim the area for Spain, the Quapaw, Caddo, Cherokee, Choctaw, and many other tribes enjoyed these springs.
Native Americans called this The Valley of the Vapors and hostilities were left aside while partaking of the 140-plus degree healing waters.
Later, bathhouses were built over the springs, drawing folks from far and wide to partake in the perceived curative properties of the waters. And still they come, drinking and/or bathing to cure what ails them.
By 1832 the springs were so popular that the federal government decided to declare the area a protected reservation, making it the oldest federal reserve in the nation. Later it became a National Park.
Through the years an array of grand bathhouses developed into the famed Bathhouse Row that is now a part of the park.
These stately spas are preserved in fine detail and several are still in operation, so we certainly had to check out the inside of one. The Fordyce Bathhouse now serves as the National Park Visitors Center, so it was the obvious choice.
We wandered in, were handed a map and shown the way for the self-guided tour.
Rambling around, we gawked at the stunning stained glass ceiling of the Roman style men’s baths, sat in the locker rooms, checked out the old tubs and steam boxes, and generally enjoyed a glimpse into a bygone era.
Then we went upstairs. Things changed.
At some point along the way, someone decided that the water alone wasn’t good enough. Nope, tools — really scary tools — were necessary to supplement the healing powers of the hot springs.
We had stumbled upon what looked like a Frankenstein movie torture chamber.
Mortified by the collection, we still had to look. Good God, that one has an electric plug! I don’t even want to think what a long glass tube with a 120 volt plug out the back could be used for.
I actually started getting a queasy feeling deep in my innards.
Things were skrintching up a good bit. Orifices were tightening in a precautionary manner, with the hope of preventing any unwanted insertions.
I moved ahead while Veronica stood frozen in either shock or wonder. She had to be scared, but what I found in the Women’s Hydrotherapy Room wasn’t going to reduce her fears any. It looked like it should be on top of a fire engine.
She rounded the corner and stood face-to-face with a large box containing several firehose-like nozzles protruding from one side, and a bevy of levers, knobs, pedals, valves, gauges and dials on the other.
The whole room was tiled and waterproofed, so obviously the idea was to soak down the patient until whatever afflicted them drowned — or begged for mercy. Hey, I’d be begging as soon as Igor touched that first knob.
If this was the stuff they showed the public, I’d hate to think what’s behind some of those locked doors. Oh gee, look at the time, we ought to get going.
The whole ordeal had us a bit shaky, so we found a regular, no-tools-required massage for Veronica while I went in search of a malt beverage to calm my nerves.
I decided to go for a shot of the steamy medicinal elixir bubbling up out of the ground instead.
enlarge video
At some point along the way, someone decided that the water alone wasn’t good enough. Nope, tools — really scary tools — were… CONTINUE READING >>
At some point along the way, someone decided that the water alone wasn’t good enough. Nope, tools — really scary tools — were necessary to supplement the healing powers of the hot springs. We had stumbled upon what looked like a Frankenstein movie torture chamber.
Mortified by the collection, we still had to look. Good God, that one has an electric plug! I don’t even want to think what a long glass tube with a 120 volt plug out the back could be used for. I actually started getting a queasy feeling deep in my innards. Things were skrintching up a good bit. Orifices were tightening in a precautionary manner, with the hope of preventing any unwanted insertions.