It started with a bobblehead. From there our obsession grew.
Our most recent trip to Italy included a stop in Rome where we had a day planned to take in the Eternal City’s most treasured sites. And we spent way too much time distracted by the somewhat odd souvenir tributes to the new Pope… CONTINUE READING >>
It started with a bobblehead near The Colosseum. From there our obsession grew.
Our most recent trip to Italy included a stop in Rome where we had a day planned to take in the Eternal City’s most treasured sites. And we spent way too much time, but not too much money thanks to souvenir vouchers and travel coupons, distracted by the somewhat odd souvenir tributes to the new Pope.
Pope thimbles: a little Papa pinky protection!
We may not be art experts… but obviously things have changed since Michelangelo’s day.
The pièce de résistance of swag — for us anyway, as lovers of the cheesy tourist diversion — were the Pope Francis cigarette lighters. With so many to choose from, we ended up purchasing one of every kind that we could find. C’mon Papa light my fire.
We’re asked about our favorite places quite often and The Galápagos Islands are always part of the conversation. There’s nowhere like it on Earth – we frolicked with sea lions, were blown away by Giant Tortoises, swam with iguanas and sea turtles (half the fun is underwater!) and hiked up to a live volcano!
Morning:
Our plane to the islands from Quito. We’ve never heard of Tame before, as it serves mostly routes within Ecuador. But, as we sit here writing this 36,000 feet above the Pacific eating a lovely lunch, we have to say we wholeheartedly approve of every aspect of the flight.
Aerial view of snow-covered Pichincha with a smaller volcano in the foreground as we climb out of Quito.
Afternoon:
Our first glimpse of the Galapagos Islands!
The vessel we will call home for the next week, the M/Y (as in Motor Yacht) Yolita II. David is in the zodiac pictured, I’m in the next one right behind. Our guide, Franklin, met us at the aeroport and had our bags transported, so we bypassed quite a few folks waiting to board other boats. That’s great organization, and we appreciate every extra minute we’ll have to explore these remarkable islands. -Veronica
Quick introductions, instructions and safety procedures are covered during the short cruise to our first destination, Las Bachas Beach on the island of Santa Cruz. The moment our feet hit the sand Franklin begins pointing out animals. Right at the shoreline, a brown pelican perched on an outcrop of lava rock, and a young stingray give us an unofficial welcome. This is going to be the best trip EVER.
A Marine Iguana, a species found only in the Galapagos, sunning himself near the water’s edge.
Sally Lightfoot (grapsus grapsus) crabs crawling across the jet black lava. They are one of the 100 species of crabs on the islands.
Another iguana considers a swim. Their fondness for water and diving ability, an adaptation they developed only here, separates these marine guys from
all of their land-based cousins.
A short walk inland leads us to a salt water lagoon where this Great Blue Heron is keeping an eye out just in case his lunch swims by.
After a spectacular sunset, we receive the first of our nightly briefings from Franklin. A quick recap of the day’s adventure and a look ahead at tomorrow’s.
We review all of our wildlife sightings and a question comes up about some small birds that have been trailing along in our wake, Storm Petrels, that leads to a great story about their name. The little guys fly just above the water and their feet skim the surface so that it looks almost like they are walking. Because St. Peter, (Petra) attempted to follow Jesus out onto the water, these were named in his honor.
Tomorrow we look forward to seeing many more of the water walkers, sea lions, perhaps a fur seal, the world’s only owl that hunts during the day, and the largest concentration of Red-Footed boobies anywhere on earth. By morning we will be anchored in the water-filled caldera of the ancient volcano that forms Genovesa Island, the famous Darwin’s Bay. Imagine Crater Lake, only in the middle of the tropical Pacific.
Galapagos visiting tip #1: Pack a battery powered or wind-up alarm clock. We had a bit of confusion this morning – the time didn’t update on anyone’s cell phones out here, so using the wake-up function was a lost cause. See all of our Galapagos tips here
DAY FOUR: Into the mouth of a volcano
Morning:
We wake up anchored in Darwin’s Bay on Genovesa Island. In reality the whole island is one-big crescent shaped bay formed by the remnants of a large volcanic caldera that just clears the surface of the ocean. The name is derived from Genoa, Italy and is in reference to the birthplace of Christopher Columbus. In fact the official name of the Galapagos is Archipiélago de Colón, in honor of the famous mariner.
In no time we are aboard the Zodiac boats and head ashore to the beach at El Barranco where several sea lions and an unimaginable number of birds greet us.
Rules for Going Ashore:
–
Always be at least six feet away from the animals. Stay alert, it’s surprisingly easy to break this rule as the animals have little fear of humans – if an animal approaches and comes within the six foot barrier, the HUMAN is obligated to step back.
-No touching the animals (which is, of course, impossible if you are obeying the first rule #1).
-Do not bring any type of food onto the islands, only drinking water is permitted.
-Stay on the clearly marked trails.
-No flash photography.
All of these rules are for the protection of this fragile ecosystem. Painstaking efforts are made by everyone involved with our Galapagos experience to avoid contamination of the islands from outside influences. From the airplane being sprayed for bugs right before we landed in order to prevent introducing invasive nonindigineous insect species and insect borne diseases, to our shoes being cleaned everytime we board the yacht to prevent transferring any tiny creatures from one island to another, protective precautions are made by these professional people who obviously truly love these islands.
Male frigates doing their version of the singles bar scene. After all, what girl could resist a bright red inflated gular sac like that?
The title “the bird island” is certainly fitting. Considering the proliferation of the red-footed and Nazca varieties of boobies, booby island was likely the original idea for a nick name… someone must have thought better of that nomenclature. Here are a Red-footed Booby and a Nazca Booby watching over their eggs.
After our birdwatching walk we don our fins, masks and snorkels to hit the water. Road Scholar participants, Roger & Debbie, help each other into wetsuits.
Afternoon:
Our afternoon romp begins with a Zodiac ride along the cliffs where we pull right up beside the rocks for intimate encounters with Red-billed Tropicbirds…
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We arrive at what are known as Prince Phillip’s Steps, a narrow path in a fissure, and climb to the top of the volcanic ridge that forms Genovesa Island.
Galapagos visiting tip #2: Bring comfortable, well worn, rubber soled shoes! They don’t mess around with the terrain here! See all of our Galapagos tips here
A baby boobie. Like a puppy, he needs to grow into those feet!
A female frigate gets a bit frisky! And these two aren’t sporting a throat pouch – go figure!
The highlight of this trek has to be spotting a Short-eared Owl eating a freshly captured Storm Petrel. These rare owls are diurnal, meaning they hunt during the day, and are the only owls known to exist that exhibit this behavior.
Franklin informed us of this owl’s unique hunting method. The owl will watch a hole in the rocks until a petrel comes out, then instead of immediately attacking, will enter the vacated opening and lay wait for his prey, sometimes for hours. When the unsuspecting petrel returns he is ambushed in his own home. The whole thing struck us as somewhat ingenious, if not a bit criminal in nature.
Early Morning:
In our briefing last night we learned about the geologic forces that created this volcanic archipelago, and that as one of the younger islands in the group, Bartolomé will offer us some fine visual examples of volcanic handiwork. Oh yeah, plus we might get to see a penguin.
We awake a stones throw from the equator with the sun rising in the east just as the full moon is setting in the west and feel really, really centered.
Our anchorage this morning is right at the base of Pinnacle Rock, “The Guardian of the Isles,” just off the coast of Bartolomé Island.
Morning:
We set out on the first expedition for the day, a hike to the summit of Bartolomé Island.
Easily observable evidence of recent volcanism surrounds us as Franklin points out lava bombs, flows and cinder cones.
A Lava Lizard, one of the few creatures willing to call this forboding environment home.
From the summit we can see for miles and Franklin points out about a dozen islands in the Galapagos chain.
Our next excursion involves a cooling snorkel journey directly beneath Pinnacle Rock. Just seconds from the shore of Bartolomé Island we spot this Chocolate Chip Sea Star.
Next thing we know, we’re in the middle of a school of Yellow-tailed Surgeonfish, named for the scalpel-like scales along their tails.
A white tipped reef shark scurries out from under a rock and we were in too much awe to snap a photo, but we did capture this Hog Fish.
Galapagos visiting tip #3: Keep a supply of large zip-type sandwich bags with you to keep moisture and sand out of your belongings and camera equipment. See all of our Galapagos tips here
On the way back to the Yolita II we encounter our first penguin. The Galapagos version are the only ones that live in the tropics.
Afternoon:
Our afternoon adventure is a trek across the barren landscape of a very young lava flow on the island of Sanitago. Young meaning in this case about 130 years, which may sound slightly less than young, but geologically speaking is just the blink of an eye.
The molten rock flowing into the sea formed numerous types of mind boggling patterns and designs mostly depending on the speed of the cooling process.
A sea lion plays in a lagoon surrounded by the lava flows.
Pinnacle Rock takes on a gravity-defying angle from Santiago.
Galapagos visiting tip #4: Have a supply of pre-moistened lens cleaning wipes for eye/sun glasses. Works wonders on camera lenses as well. Salt air is sticky! See all of our Galapagos tips here
The tropical sun on the black basalt flow takes a toll on Veronica.
We are happy to report that she survived to tell about another fabulous day.
DAY SIX: The Day of the Giant Tortoise
Early Morning:
We’ve been so busy studying the amazing wildlife and terrain of these enchanting islands that we have neglected to mention the incredible food, service and attention to every detail that Captain Vincente and his crew have provided.
Every meal has been beautifully prepared and presented right down to the snacks and juice that await us every time we return to the ship from an excursion. A giant gracias to the fantastic crew of the Yolita II.
Morning: Our day on the island of Isabela, the largest of the Galapagos, will begin at sea level, rise above the clouds, and then return to the sea.
As we rise in altitude going up the Volcán Sierra Negra the scenery changes from dry, barren, lava flows to wet tropical jungle filled with exotic plants and birds, many we have never seen before.
Signs along the way warn drivers to slow down for the safety of the birds.
In a stroke of huge luck (and the amazing eye of our guide, Franklin) we catch a glimpse of the tiny, extremely elusive Vermillion Flycatcher.
From the bus we hike about two miles up to the rim of the active volcano which is playing hide and seek with the clouds. Often we are actually looking down on the clouds from above.
The floor of the caldera is covered with black, freshly hardened lava from the last eruption, in 2005, and is still hot, warmed by the massive magma chamber just below the surface. Photos can’t capture the enormity of the situation!
Galapagos visiting tip #5: The flights into The Galapagos have a 44-pound weight limit for luggage and cabin space on the boats are tight. It’s best to take less clothing and to plan on hand washing if the need arises.See all of our Galapagos tips here
Afternoon:
On our way back down the mountain we visit the Tortoise Breeding Center of Isabela, home to over three hundred Giant Tortoises. The tour through the facility begins with an egg…
…then we see adolescents, twenty years old or so…
.
..then the full grown big fellahs, who can easily top 500 pounds and be over 100 years old.
WATCH: This is a breeding center, I guess we shouldn’t be surprised to see some breeding going on.
From the breeding center we walk along the wetland trail and find a flock of Flamingos in a salt water lagoon.
Marine Iguanas seem to like hanging out on the boardwalk that leads through the wetlands.
The trail ends at the town of Puerto Villamil, a quaint tropical village, and one of the few human-inhabited places on these islands. After miles of hiking we were more than pleased to find this outpost of civilization and proceeded to wash down the trail dust with a chilled cerveza, Pilsner – Ecuador’s most popular brew – at an open air cantina called La Choza. We were pretty happy since they provided not only frosty refreshment, but a pretty jammin’ wifi signal too.
DAY SEVEN: Giant Tortoises & Massive Iguanas in the WILD and Swimming with Turtles
Morning:
We take the dingy into Elizabeth Bay and immediately come upon dozens of Galapagos penguins diving and frolicking beside us while they catch their breakfast. Our second day on Isabela will be filled with close encounters of the rare species kind.
A little closer to shore we pull up to a rock where a few Blue-footed Boobies stake out an observation post.
As we motored deep into the mangroves we could see an unbelievable number of sea turtles swimming just beneath the surface, along with spotted eagle rays and a large school of mullets. Since they were under water it was hard to tell what sort of hair style they were sporting.
Galapagos visiting tip #6: Don’t forget socks – we’re finding we’re going through quite a few pair. The hand washing of socks is happening. See all of our Galapagos tips here
Afternoon:
During our usual tasty midday meal the Yolita II made her way north to Urbina Bay, also on Isabela. Just after lunch a pod of dolphins join us on our journey. They seem to love riding on the surge of water that the ship pushes out in front… surfing the pressure wave.
WATCH: Dolphins frolic in the pressure wave of the Yolita II
See more about what’s going on underwater in The Galapagos!
We make a wet landing, jumping out of the Zodiacs into the surf, on the black sand beach of Urbina Bay and begin our search for the Galapagos Giant Tortoise in the wild. The signs of them are everywhere, their tracks and droppings, and it isn’t long before we find one of these magnificent creatures.
Not much farther along an enormous full grown male blocks our path. Eventually he let us by, perhaps because it seems he took a shine to Veronica.
Most of the animals here in the Galapagos show no fear of humans whatsoever, as we see again just up the trail with this Land Iguana.
Maybe our giant tortoise friend does have a thing for Veronica because a few minutes after we make it back to the beach he comes plodding out of the brush to say goodbye.
Morning:
Our morning activities kick off with a dingy ride around Tagus Cove where we see several penguins perched on the tuff cliffs. Tuff is a sedimentary form of volcanic rock that forms when ash is piled up in layers over the ages and compressed into soft stone.
Because of its softness, tuff easily erodes into interesting and unique formations, like Pinnacle Rock that we saw a few days ago, and these ledges.
Within a few minutes Veronica spots a Flightless Cormorant eating a Tiger Snake Eel. In the blink of an eye (but sadly, not of a camera lens) a pelican swoops down and, after a mighty tug-of-war, steals the cormorant’s prey and takes it to the sky. Talk about wild kingdom!
Then we disembark from the dingy for a hike up a short trail to Darwin’s Lagoon. Along the trail we find not only one of Darwin’s famous finches, but its house too.
When the first pirates and sailors first found this place they celebrated what they thought was the discovery of a big fresh water lake, but were terribly disappointed when it turned out to be salt water, even saltier than the sea. The water seeps in from the sea to fill the lagoon and is then concentrated by evaporation. From our vantage point, the lagoon looks much higher than the nearby ocean, but it’s only an optical illusion. No wonder they were fooled.
Galapagos visiting tip #7: Yikes! The sun is STRONG here. Bring sunscreen, a hat, sunglasses and a t-shirt for snorkeling. Don’t forget to apply sunscreen to the back of your neck! Better yet, cover it up. See all of our Galapagos tips here
Afternoon:
The Yolita II steams a short way to Fernandina Island and we go ashore on the youngest of the Galapagos islands.
Unbelievable numbers of Marine Iguanas on every rock or trail, along the trail, actually on almost every inch of this island. This guy is sporting a youngster on his head!
The Galapagos Islands are the only place in the world to find Marine Iguanas…
…and boy did we find Marine Iguanas!
Fellow Road Scholar participants, Hub and Janet, take in the enormity of the situation!
These prehistoric looking guys are the only iguanas that can swim and dive.
They have adapted to eat seaweed off of the underwater rocks.
Their adaptation also includes the ability to filter the salt out of sea water, so they periodically spit, or more precisely sneeze, out the excess salt.
Evening:
After dinner we head north and cross the equator as we briefly return to the northern hemisphere on our way around the top of Isabela Island. A few hours later we cross it again when we turn to follow the Southern Cross back down to tomorrow’s destination, Santiago Island.
Back on board the Yolita II, a cry of “thar she blows” rings out, but the spouts are too far off in the distance for any photo ops. We choose to see the bright side though and celebrate the fact that we finally found an animal in the Galapagos that didn’t want to stay directly in our path.
DAY NINE: We saw everything on our wishlist – and more!
Morning:
We awake in Buccaneer Cove (Caleta Bucanero), Santiago Island, so named because it once served as a hideout for pirates before and after attacks on the Spanish Galleons hauling gold and silver out of Peru. The island is also known as James Island, in fact, all of the Galapagos Islands have old English names from back when the privateers were working these waters. This one was dubbed James no doubt in anticipation of our impending visit four centuries later.
Before moving on Captain Vincente gives us a spin around the cove, taking the Yolita II to within just a few feet of the sheer rock walls.
Galapagos visiting tip #9: Bring swim shoes! Wet landings are made quite frequently and swim shoes protect your feet and work well for beach romping. See all of our Galapagos tips here
Afternoon: The afternoon starts, after a quick jaunt over to Rábida Island, with our last chance to swim with the fishes. We snorkel up and dive in from the unusually red sand beach. For those who haven’t been keeping score, we’ve seen white, golden, black and red sand beaches in the week that we’ve been here.
We see amazing things – sea stars, surgeonfish, puffers, sargent majors, angel fish, but also a new guy, a Blenny, “sitting” on the rocks atop his little fins.
Then Franklin calls out that he has spotted the last item on David’s list of creatures he hoped to see swimming in the ocean… the Marine Iguana. Even though we saw several thousand of them yesterday, seeing one feeding under water, then swimming back to shore, really completed our Galapagos undersea experience.
Evening:
As the sun goes down we make our way back toward Baltra and the airport, but have enough daylight left for a circumnavigation around Daphne Island. This volcanic cone island holds a high standing in the history of research on The Galapagos. British scientists Peter and Rosemary Grant conducted an intensive study of Darwin’s finches here, and lived on Daphne for over 25 years while compiling the information that led to their famous book The Beak of the Finch.
As we circle, Captain Vincente takes us in close for a look at the cave where the Grants stayed, including their children, during their time on the island.
DAY TEN: One last morning (sigh)
Early Morning:
Our last morning on Yolita II begins early with a sunrise run to tiny Mosquera Islet.
Not much more than a sandbar in the straights between Seymour and Baltra islands, but a great chance to take in one last Galapagos sunrise.
Morning:
Then we are off to the airport and even in this pristine place, one must exit through the gift shop. Yes, we fell under the spell of the swag sellers and made a goofy “I Heart Boobies” tourist purchase for Veronica’s dad. We are fairly certain he will wear it in all its inappropriate glory.
One of the coolest moments of our lives – were treated to several minutes of frolicking with an extremely playful sea lion! See ALL of our Galápagos sea lion footage (they are so funny on land!): GO! >>
One of the coolest moments of my life! I was treated to several minutes of frolicking with a Galapagos sea lion. It is our duty to protect these amazing creatures and, as with all animals in The Galapagos Islands, staying at least six feet away is a must. This guy had me swimming backwards to keep from touching him!
Inside the Cusco airport we spotted a cure for the light-headed feeling and sleepiness that the low oxygen at high altitude can bring on, a booth with something called OxiShot. But wait, the clerk is out cold, must be the thin air… CONTINUE READING >>
We were worried about the altitude in Peru and were willing to try ANYTHING to help with the side effects – but this is NOT a ringing endorsement:
Inside the Cusco airport we spotted a cure for the light-headed feeling and sleepiness that the low oxygen at high altitude can bring on, a booth with something called OxiShot. But wait, the clerk is out cold, must be the thin air.
Nothing says all-American like a summer food festival in the Heartland, and hamburgers are as American as it gets.
The Menches family of Akron, Ohio claims the invention of the burger, so naturally the Hamburger Festival is celebrated annually in… CONTINUE READING >>
To help us continue in our valiant efforts to regale the world with tales of our adventures, The GypsyNesters periodically accept compensation for links within our stories. This post includes one of those. As always, all opinions are our own.
Nothing says all-American like a summer food festival in the Heartland, and hamburgers are as American as it gets.
So when we heard about The National Hamburger Festival we knew we had to be there.
So we were off to Akron, Ohio, where the Menches family claims the invention of the burger. Where else could the annual Hamburger Festival be celebrated but here in the Rubber Capital of the World?
The story goes that back in 1885 Charles Menches ran out of pork for the sandwiches he was selling at the Erie County Fair. His meat supplier was reluctant to butcher a hog in the heat and suggested he use ground beef instead.
After seasoning the meat with a little coffee and brown sugar, a star was born.
Their offspring are still in the burger business, so our first stop would be at their booth to give a descendant of the original a try.
WATCH: David experiences everything the Hamburger Fest has to offer!
However, finding that booth was harder than we expected. There were so many offerings – every kind of burger imaginable available. How is it that we’d never heard of this huge hamburger hootenanny?
We didn’t even know about the festival until the Tuesday before it kicked off and by Saturday we were there. For such a spur-of-the-moment trip HotelScan.com can come in handy.
They check the best rates from over thirty hotel booking sites, saving us a lot of time and energy (and cussing!)
Diving into a Kiddy Pool Full of Ketchup
After successfully locating the Menches and filling our bellies with burgers, we were ready for the rest of the festivities.
Cook-offs, pageants, music and the perhaps the wackiest competition we’ve seen yet in all our travels all awaited.
We made our way through the crowds to the main stage and spied a kiddy pool filled with ketchup. Odd. Hanging behind the pool a sign proudly proclaiming: Bobbing for Burgers!
What could this possibly mean? We learned soon enough when plastic burgers were floated on the red sea, contestants donned goggles, held their hands behind their backs, and duked it out face first in a vat of sticky-sweet goo.
Our kind of fun – as long as someone else is doing it.
WATCH: The craziest competition we’ve ever seen!
Beauty and the Burger
It’s great to be queen: The 2012 & 2013 National Hamburger Queens.
Next on the program was the crowning of the 2013 National Hamburger Queen.
According to the official festival site, in order to enter the ladies must be aged 16 – 24 years of age and are judged on:
– Poise
– Personality
– Presentation of self
and…
– Hamburger knowledge
Don’t Stop at One or Two – Try Eating Ten Hamburgers!
Competitions involving eating massive amounts of food in a short period of time are an American festival staple — harkening back to county fair pie eating contests — and we would have been highly disappointed if the Festival’s Ohio Hamburger Eating Contest had failed to live up to that tradition.
We were not to be let down by this chow down. Each “eater” was given a plate of ten burgers, bottles of water, ketchup and mustard, and a massive crowd to cheer them on. Their mission: to consume as many hamburgers as superhumanly possible in ten minutes.
It proved to be harder than it sounds, but keep in mind these were full-sized burgers — bun and all — and the winner managed to finish seven whole gut bombs and a few bites of an eighth.
WATCH: How many burgers could YOU eat in ten minutes?
It was enough to make us swear off of burgers forever – or at least until next year’s festival.
To help us continue in our valiant efforts to regale the world with tales of our adventures, The GypsyNesters periodically accept compensation for links within our stories. This post includes one of those. As always, all opinions are our own.
We eat our way through booths with every kind of burger imaginable – and take in the wackiest burger-related competitions you’ll ever… Enlarge Video & Find Out More! >>
In Akron, Ohio, where the Menches family claims the invention of the burger, is the annual National Hamburger Festival.
Join us as we eat our way through booths with every kind of burger imaginable – and take in the wackiest burger-related competitions you’ll ever want to see!
Join your GypsyNesters as we trod upon the Earth’s mantle (bucket list item alert!), discover the breathtaking beauty of a fjord by water, dodge carnivorous plants, devour a traditional Jiggs Dinner, and frolic with massive amounts of butterflies!
Of Newfoundland’s many wonders, Gros Morne National Park is the heavyweight champ.
One reason it’s heavy, as in sixties hippie talk “heavy man,” is because this is one of the only places in the world where humans can set foot upon rocks that have risen from deep within the Earth’s mantle.
As a prime example of plate tectonics, sometimes called continental drift, the area known as The Tablelands gave us a look into what’s going on below the Earth’s crust.
Hundreds of millions of years ago, when the continents of Africa and North America were close neighbors, so close that they were smashing into each other, the resulting upheaval brought to the surface these rocks from far beneath the ocean floor.
The handy GPS guide we picked up at the Discovery Center near the trailhead explained the amazing geology as we hiked up the valley.
The rock is called peridotite, and is unlike most any others found on the Earth’s surface. It has very little calcium, a high magnesium content, toxic amounts of heavy metals, and a great deal of iron.
This combination causes two things that contribute to The Tablelands unique landscape. The lack of normal nutrients in the soil prohibits most plant life, making for a barren dessert-like look; and the iron gives the rocks their rusty color, in fact it is actually oxidation, better known as rust. We discovered the true color of peridotite by looking inside one of the brittle rocks, revealing a dark green interior.
Despite the look, this is actually a fairly wet area, as we could see across the valley where the soil is composed of more typical minerals. Lush forests grow on the mountains and along Wallace Brook below.
Still a few hearty plants eke out an existence in the harsh ground, some even get carnivorous. The Provincial flower of Newfoundland and Labrador, the Pitcher Plant, finds a way to survive by trapping bugs and extracting their nutrients.
At the end of the trail the little voice in our head(phones) told us about the water flowing over these rocks in Winterhouse Brook, the land’s odd composition gives the it a pH balance more alkaline than bleach, and it holds very little oxygen.
Not good for sustaining life, but there are theories that this may be what water on Mars would be like. Come to think of it, that’s the description we’d been looking for… the whole area looks Mars-like.
Fjord Has a Better Idea
But barren outer space landscapes are only a small part of Gros Morne’s championship qualities. The last Ice Age left behind formations that are more than just lovely to look at, they are textbook examples of the forces of nature.
Glacial valleys and cirques are the definitive features throughout most of the park.
Some of the most profound specimens are found along the shores of Western Brook Pond. The nearly twenty mile long “pond” (in Newfoundland speak any body of water smaller than the ocean is a pond) is actually a fjord.
Unlike most fjords, Western Brook is fresh water. When the ice melted around 10,000 years ago, it caused the land to rise with the removal of all the weight. That lifted the fjord slightly above sea level and cut it off from the ocean.
The pond is surrounded by incredibly rugged mountains, making it extremely difficult to see other than by water. There’s no radio-guided walking tour here.
Good thing for us Bon Tours offers boat excursions that cover the entire thirty kilometers of scenic awesomeness.
As the boat entered the water-filled canyon we could easily see evidence of the glacial carving that left behind sheer cliffs dropping directly into the fjord. Between the rock faces there are numerous hanging valleys, where smaller glaciers carved cirques that were then sheered off by the main ice flow.
Streams cascade over the canyon walls forming waterfalls that drop hundreds of feet, some over a thousand, before splashing into the fjord.
One of those thousand-footers punctuates the spectacular box canyon end of the pond, Pissing Mare Falls. No word on where the name came from, or who’s responsible, but that must have been one big horse.
We have yet to see the famous fjords of Norway, but it is hard to imagine anywhere more visually stunning than Western Brook. It reminded us very much of the Yosemite Valley — the same forces had a hand in creating both — if it was filled with pristine water. Newfoundlanders can call it a pond if they like, we call it fantastic!
Rockin’ “The Rock”
Beautiful Rocky HarborThe view from our hotel room
The term national park can conjure up images of roughing it out in the wilderness, eating charred bits of food after they’ve fallen into the campfire, and scaring off bears.
That’s all available in Gros Morne, but the park is fairly new to protected status, being named a reserve in 1973 and a national park in 2005, so there are also many non-primitive accommodations to be found within the boundaries.
We stayed at the locally famous Ocean View Hotel in the picturesque fishing village of Rocky Harbor.
The reason for their fame is not so much the lodging, even though it was above and beyond wonderful in every way, but in the twice-weekly performances of Anchors Aweigh in the Anchor Pub.
The band is practically an institution, for twenty years they have been entertaining in typical Newfoundland fashion, a blend of traditional music, comedy, and spinning some yarns about life on “The Rock.” We left feeling like we could start to understand Newfoundland.
Whatever understanding might have been missing, we found next door at Fisherman’s Landing when we ordered two of the most traditional Newfoundland meals possible, Jiggs Dinner, and Fish & Brewis. Both date back way before refrigeration, so they are based on salted meat.
Fish & Brewis is made with salt cod and hardtack, boiled, broken up, and mixed together. It tastes way better than it sounds… or looks.
Jiggs Dinner features salt beef, and is a variation of good ole Irish corned beef and cabbage. What sets it apart are the carrots, turnips, and especially pease pudding. Pudding being the British use of the term, almost like a dumpling made from split yellow peas.
Bill Cosby, pudding aficionado, might not approve — and it’s not something we had ever tried before — but after one bite we got properly jiggy with it.
The menu also proudly listed moose burgers and moose stew, but since there is no such thing as moose, we didn’t see any way that we could possibly eat one.
It’s a Bug’s Life
Leaving the park, going south, we came across an interesting diversion, The Newfoundland Insectarium.
What we thought might be a quick stop turned into hours as we took in one fascinating exhibit after another.
We lost ourselves watching leafcutter ants working, bees busily building their hive, and most mesmerizing of all, walking through The Butterfly House surrounded by hundreds of beautiful blue butterflies.
The colorful winged insects flew all around us, sometimes even landing on us. In fact, several of the displays are hands on. We got to hold creatures that looked exactly like leaves, or sticks, or alien beings.
We even got to touch the skin of a devil – a Thorny Devil to be precise. All of this was overseen by the museum’s director, Lloyd Hollett, who captivated us with not only his knowledge, but his exuberance. We’ve heard that his schtick about the beehive is becoming legendary.
WATCH: Veronica frolics with butterflies, handles some pretty intimidating bugs!
Within a few days of leaving Gros Morne we were missing it, so we decided to try our hand at making a Jiggs Dinner to reminisce.
We looked it up and had no problems with the recipe at all, until it said to put a split pea mixture in a pudding sock and throw it in the pot to boil with the rest of the stuff.
Shocking as it may seem, we did not have a pudding sock handy on the motorhome, and we weren’t really willing to try a sweat sock substitution.
At the risk of seriously offending some Newfoundlanders… Jiggs Dinner without the pudding is still delicious.
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