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Why? Could it be the Cacti?

Everybody has to ask “Why?” from time to time. Our time came on the drive to Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument. On the northern edge of the park, along the only road going in, lies the miniscule town of Why, Arizona.

Wondering why, we figured we should ask around. The Why-Not Travel Store seemed a good place to inquire. Actually, it was the only place to inquire.

It seems there are two main stories as to how the town came to be named Why, one more likely true than the other.

Some folks say that… CONTINUE READING >>

Why Arizona

Everybody has to ask “Why?” from time to time. Our time came on the drive to Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument.

On the northern edge of the park, along the only road going in, lies the miniscule town of Why, Arizona.

Wondering why, we figured we should ask around. The Why-Not Travel Store seemed a good place to inquire. Actually, it was the only place to inquire.

It seems there are two main stories as to how the town came to be named Why, one more likely true than the other.

Some folks say that back when this place was known as Rocky Point Junction (the turning point for going to Rocky Point, Mexico) a post office was needed, but the postal service felt that there were too many towns with Junction in their names.

Needing a new name, the town held a meeting to come up with a good one, but some smart alec asked “Why would anyone live out here?” After some discussion, they all agreed. Why?

The Why Not Travel Store, Why Arizona

The more likely truth is that the town is named for the junction of State Routes 85 and 86 that meet in a “Y” intersection here.

Arizona law requires that town names have at least three letters so Y became Why.

Having found an answer to the ultimate question, we took the Highway 85 stem of the Y south to see the Organ Pipe Cacti. Legend has it that State 85 was donated to the federal government during Prohibition when it was a mere dirt road.

Why? The hope was that the road would be improved, making bootleg liquor easier to smuggle in from Mexico.

Guess the feds forgot to ask “Why?” when Arizona offered it to them.

Saguaro Cactus

Driving into the park we spied the classic, arms-in-the-air Saguaro cacti, but soon noticed something new – the clumps of long pipe-like limbs of the Organ Pipe variety.

We chatted up a Park Ranger to find out that the park is here because this is the only place in the U.S.A. where this particular cactus grows, so in 1937 the area was officially protected as Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument.

That got us to wondering, what is the difference between a National Monument and a National Park?

The difference is mainly in the manner that they are created. A National Park can only be established through an act of congress and can consist of both public and private lands, while a Monument is designated by Presidential proclamation and can only include existing public land. Now we know.

Organ Pipe Cactus

A part of the Sonoran Desert, 95% of Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument is a wilderness area and is among the hottest and driest places in the country.

With this in mind, we didn’t want to stray too far off the beaten path, but we did want to do a little hiking to see the desert up close and personal.

The two and a half mile excursion to the old Victoria Mine looked to be the best option to do some sightseeing without worries of dehydration or becoming food for wildlife.

Gold and silver mining began in this area in the late 1800s and continued for nearly one hundred years. The Victoria Mine was active for about forty of those years, around the turn of the 19th to 20th centuries. Those miners had to be hardy souls.

Desert Cacti Assortment

We headed out across the foothills of the Sonoyta Mountains to do a bit of prospecting of our own. Along the trail we got a taste of the desert flora and fauna.

Several types of cholla grow like crazy out here, as well as creosote bush, ocotillo, paloverde and many cacti, including the park’s namesake, organ pipes.

Wildlife is less obvious during the daylight hours, but we did see a few small birds, hawks and a couple of the little desert mice they were hunting.

As we climbed a bit higher, a beautiful panoramic view of the Sonoyta Valley spread out below us to the south. We could see all the way to Mexico. Of course Arizona was once part of Mexico, and back then the trail we were following was the old Mexican road that ran between the towns of Sonoyta and Ajo (yup, it means garlic!).

Arizona Desert

The colorful rock tailings along the mountainsides, left from the removal of the ore, let us know we were close to the mine.

At the top of the last hill we found the remnants of a stone structure next to one of several shafts. The small ruins are all that’s left of Levy’s store, which supplied the little settlement that grew here a century ago.

The only merchandise left inside the store is an old rusty bath tub. We didn’t see a price tag, but didn’t really want to drag it back to camp with us anyway.

Old Mine Shaft

Outside the store, a good bit of the mining machinery has survived. Much of it has been moved away from the holes and the mineshafts have been covered.

We still managed a peek down the shafts, carefully looking down the dark holes through cracks in the coverings.

Not much to see but pure blackness past the first few feet, still, we’d bet every single person to come up here has done the exact same thing.

Arizona Sunset

If we wanted more mining exploration, we could have continued south another two miles to the Lost Cabin Mines, but the trail gets a little spotty and we didn’t have a very good map.

At least that’s the excuse we settled on as we set out on the return trip back to the park headquarters.

Back in the middle of the desert again, we started to rethink our opinion of how the town of Why got its name.

Maybe they are here for the cacti. Why not?

David & Veronica, GypsyNester.com

To Bean or Not to Bean, Is That Even a Question?

As the leaves begin to turn red and gold deep in the Ozarks, excitement starts to build. Competitors check and double check recipes. Others put the final tweaks on their racing machines. Before long, the aroma of beans and outhouses fill the mountain air — it’s time for the Annual Arkansas Bean Fest and Great Championship Outhouse Races. This fest had GypsyNester written all over it. How could we possibly resist?

The festivities, as with… CONTINUE READING >>

Saggy Bottom Boys cooking up a mess of beans!

As the leaves begin to turn red and gold deep in the Ozarks, excitement starts to build.

Competitors check and double check recipes. Others put the final tweaks on their racing machines.

Before long, the aroma of beans and outhouses fill the mountain air — it’s time for the Annual Arkansas Bean Fest and Great Championship Outhouse Races (the 2023 festival is October 27 & 28).

This fest had GypsyNester written all over it. How could we possibly resist?

Folk Music in Mountain View, Arkansas

The festivities, as with every gathering in Mountain View, Arkansas, begin with live bluegrass and folk music. Impromptu bands spring up all around the town square and play clean as country water.

They gather in front of the music store, ice cream parlor and in the town park gazebos. As we wandered among the pickers and grinners, we heard everything from fiddle and banjo to spoon and washtub musicians. The groups ranged from exceptionally good to incredible.

No wonder Mountain View is known as “The Folk Music Capital of The World.”

The music continues throughout the weekend, but the big bean-related events kick off with the “Beanie Weenie Dog Show” on Thursday evening. Dogs of all kinds, not just wieners, compete for high Beanfest honors.

Friday, the cooks set up their giant pots for the main event. By the end of the day, each cauldron is filled with water and fifty pounds of dry pinto beans for an overnight soaking. This year that means a total of two thousand pounds of beans went down the gullets of Beanfest revelers.

Servin' up a mess o' beans!

At the crack of dawn Saturday morning, the fires are lit under the pots and the cooking commences.

We were sure to arrive bright and early for the best opportunity to meet the contestants, because by mid-day about forty thousand bean-starved spectators will have descended upon little Mountain View, non-Beanfest population, 3,000.

Beanfest is much more than just cooking up a mess o’ beans, style matters. In addition to the “Best Beans” and the “Best Cornbread” titles, teams decorate their territory, dressing in zany themes to compete for the coveted “Best Cooking Area” award.

Beanfest!

We wandered among the cooking crews, chatting about their recipes and getting the scoop on Beanfest legends and lore.

Witches, hippies, jailbirds, football fans, grannies, even “Speedy Relief” (aka the Alka Seltzer mascot) all gave their best shot, but our runaway favorites were the hillbillies a la Oh Brother Where Art Thou.

They never broke character throughout the day, even when they came up short to the witches in the end. We think there may have been some politicking involved in the judging, but there was no time to investigate, the beans were being served up.

With folks flocking to the winnings booths, our strategy became crowd surge avoidance. We sampled some runner-up concoctions — much easier to get served and still some mighty good bean eatin’.

After several samples — all free we should point out — our bellies were bulging and the timing was perfect for a parade of outhouses.

These aren’t your average outhouses, oh no, these are high performance porta-potties. As with the cook-off, style points matter in commode couture. As the entries proceeded past us, it was easy to spot which were serious in the speed competition and which were vying for the coveted “Best Dressed” prize.

Taking a load off!

Once the competition began, the decorative privies generally fell out in their first heats, but one racer looked viable in both the swiftness and cosmetic departments.

Standing upright and looking like the most realistic outdoor facility in the parade, we thought it would be clumsy, but this bad boy was laid on its back for racing and flew down the track with stunning velocity.

Some of the sleeker, less authentic outdoor-toilet-looking entrants will have to bring the gas to win this thing. Hope they ate plenty of beans.

Chatting with a few of the teams, we found that there are some rules to restroom road racing. Two “pushers” are allowed to propel the vehicle while one person drives. The participants must be at least fourteen years old and the driver must weigh in at hundred pounds or more.

This restriction means that most of the drivers are girls, which adds a fun teenage social aspect to the event. After seeing the pushers sprinting down the track, it became obvious that this is a sport for the young.

Guitar themed outhouse

Hard fought heats were run in double elimination brackets until the field had been pared down to the final two high speed lavatories.

Whooping it up wildly, we were thrilled when our favorite team crossed the finish line ahead of their close rival.

They had been happy to fill us in earlier on the intricacies of outhouse racing, something they knew a thing or two about as defending champions, and had a spectacular collective sense of humor. That’s something to cheer about.

Outhouse Race Winning Team

With the gold, silver and bronze toilet seats awarded, most of the crowd headed over to the courthouse lawn to watch the talent contest.

We followed along but this version of Ozark Idol, while featuring some very entertaining acts, seemed a bit anticlimactic after our non-stop legume filled day.

Digesting our Beanfest experience became a more pressing issue.

David & Veronica, GypsyNester.com

Outhouse Races! Mountain View, Arkansas


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These aren’t your average outhouses, oh no, these are high performance porta-potties. Guess what happens at the… CONTINUE READING >>

These aren’t your average outhouses, oh no, these are high performance porta-potties. Guess what happens at the after party in the Ozarks! For More: https://www.gypsynester.com/bf.htm

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Arkansas BeanFest!


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Home of BeanFest, Mountain View, Arkansas! Check out how crazy it gets up in the mountains of the… CONTINUE READING >>

Home of BeanFest, Mountain View, Arkansas! Check out how crazy it gets up in the mountains of the Ozarks! Guess what happens at the after party? For about BeanFest: https://www.gypsynester.com/bf.htm

Visit our GypsyNester YouTube Channel!

Easy to be Hard

While we are firm believers in a “take it easy” philosophy, we have never been standing on a corner in Winslow, Arizona before. Call us wacky, we were pretty stoked about it.

The town of Winslow is pretty stoked, as well.
They built a little monument to the lyric, complete with a mural of a girl, my lord, in a flatbed Ford slowing down to take a look at the statue named “Standing On The Corner.” It’s painted as if it is a reflection in a plate glass window and really works. The mood is captured.

Cool as it was to climb inside an Eagles song, we… CONTINUE READING >>

Standing on a corner in Winsow Arizona

While we are firm believers in a Take it Easy philosophy, we have never been standing on a corner in Winslow, Arizona before.

Call us wacky, we were pretty stoked about it. The town of Winslow is pretty stoked, as well.

They built a little monument to the lyric, complete with a mural of a girl, my lord, in a flatbed Ford slowing down to take a look at the statue named “Standing On The Corner.”

It’s painted as if it is a reflection in a plate glass window and really works. The mood is captured.

Cool as it was to climb inside an Eagles song, we wouldn’t rate it as trip-worthy to northeast Arizona by itself.

It happened to be right on our way to the Petrified Forest. Leaving behind the billboard that says “Winslow, Arizona says ‘Take it easy,'” we made our way through Holbrook.

Once known as “the town too tough for women or churches,” the feature that really caught our eyes was a little road along the railroad tracks named Bucket of Blood Street.

Speeding by Bucket of Blood Street, Holbrook Arizona

That’s not the kind of name that we could just let go by without some investigation.

Turns out that Terrill’s Cottage Saloon was the scene of one of the most notorious shootings in the old West.

When Grat Dalton of the notorious Dalton Gang shot two players in a card game, everyone said that the floor looked like someone spilled a bucket of blood.

The saloon and the street had a new name.

Unfortunately, after wetting the whistles of parched adventurous western travelers for a century or so, The Bucket has been boarded up.

Cement Teepee

A few miles more and we spotted teepees in the distance.

Out in these parts that could only mean one thing, cheesy crap shop.

Sure enough, guarding the entrance to Petrified Forest National Park stood a classic.

In addition to the cement tents outside, the inside was stuffed with horrible fake headdresses, rubber arrows, polished rocks, Jackalopes, rattlesnake eggs, fools gold and of course, petrified wood.

A tree in the Petrified Forest National Park in Arizona - beautiful!

Once inside the park, things took a distinct turn for the more serious.

First, we were warned, multiple times, not to take any samples of the fossilized wood home with us unless we were willing to face a $325.00 fine.

While that may seem harsh, it obviously isn’t a strong enough deterrent, since an estimated twelve tons of petrified wood is stolen from the park every year.

Luckily, the big stuff isn’t going anywhere.

The Petrified Forest is definitely a drive-through park.

A road stretches twenty-seven miles north-to-south through the forest with numerous pullouts and side roads for viewing the sights.

Calling it a forest gave us the wrong impression. The petrified trees are all laying on the ground, left there about 225 million years ago during the Late Triassic period.

When we think forest, we expect large groups of upright trees. We felt kind of dumb.

See more photos and our antics in The Petrified Forest!

Petrified wood, up close

All those million years ago this area was an upright tropical forest.

Fallen trees accumulated in river beds and were buried by volcanic ash.

The silica in the ash dissolved and seeped into the logs, forming beautiful quartz crystals.

Other minerals combined with the silica to create the rainbow of colors in the petrified wood.

Buried for eons, it wasn’t until about sixty million years ago that the Colorado Plateau began to be pushed up, forming mountains and allowing erosion to expose this ancient lumber.

Porcupines!

After a quick stop at the visitors center to grab a map and some info, we were ready to explore.

But before we could begin our adventure, the ranger pointed out a couple of porcupines in a tree by the parking lot.

Never having viewed one of the prickly little critters up close, we had to go in for a look.

Two big quill pigs were chowing down on the poor tree and pretty much oblivious to any strangers approaching.

Veronica dubbed them “cute” but I don’t think she’d feel that way if she tried to pet one.

Wildlife encounter completed, we drove up from the south entrance to our first stop, The Crystal Forest.

A walking trail leads through the hundreds of downed ancient trees in this forest, giving us our first up close look at the petrified wood. It’s amazing how the rock has retained the exact look of the trees.

The grain, rings and even the bark are perfectly preserved in stone.

Petrified Forest National Park in Arizona

Our next stop was Blue Mesa. From the top of the mesa we got a great view of valleys filled with petrified logs. Many of them have rolled down and gathered in the canyons, while others are still being exposed by erosion that continues today.

A Petrified log in The Petrified National Forest, Arizona

From the mesa, we continued on to Newspaper Rock.

A telescope is required to get a good look at the petroglyphs that give the rock its name.

Symbols and images were etched onto the rock by the original inhabitants of the park as far back as 2000 years ago.

Some of the rocks in this area are covered with “desert varnish,” a thin dark coating of minerals and microorganisms that the native peoples used to tell their stories by scratching pictures into the rock surfaces.

The meanings of most of these writings remain a mystery, but it is speculated that they may have been a part of religious ceremonies, story telling and just plain preserving information. Sounds a lot like what newspapers have always done.

See more photos and our antics in The Petrified Forest!

Route 66 Marker

As we continued north, we crossed I-40 and took a quick look at the Route 66 marker.

When the old highway came through here in the twenties, tourists began discovering this unique fossil collection.

Unfortunately, they also began removing a lot of the specimens.

The park was preserved as a national monument by Teddy Roosevelt (who else?) back in 1906, but it wasn’t until the depression that Civilian Conservation Corps workers built infrastructure for the park and began to really protect it, slapping the hands of sticky-fingered tourists.

In 1962, the monument became Petrified Forest National Park.

Painted desert in Arizona

Beyond the new and old highways to the north, The Painted Desert stretches out for breathtaking miles.

This giant stretch of “badlands” is protected as the Petrified Forest National Wilderness Area.

Most of it has no roads and is accessible only by foot. We decided to view it from afar and found incredible panoramic views at several pullouts in this part of the park.

Painted desert

Our timing could not have been better.

The swiftly sinking sun highlighted beautiful Earth tones, reds, browns and orange that are layered in volcanic strata across the mountains.

The same minerals that give the petrified wood so much color, provide the “paint” for the Painted Desert.

Having enjoyed nature’s art exhibit, we were ready to call it another fantastic day. We were pretty sure that we should drive far enough away to spend the night at a safe distance from The Bucket of Blood.

Better to be safe than sorry.

David & Veronica, GypsyNester.com

See all of our Arizona Adventures!

Sphere Conquering

Near the little town of Oracle, Arizona, one of the world’s great experiments took place. When the Biosphere 2 experiment began, it caused such a stir that it became a part of pop culture, even getting a mention on Seinfeld, and nothing says “made it” like a Seinfeld reference.

These jokes… CONTINUE READING >>

Biosphere 2 Outside Shot

Just outside of Tucson, near the little town of Oracle, Arizona, one of the world’s great scientific experiments took place.

When the Biosphere 2 experiment began, it caused such a stir that it became a part of pop culture, even getting a mention on Seinfeld, and nothing says “made it” like a Seinfeld reference.

Biosphere 2 Outside

These jokes and news blurbs were all we knew about the Biosphere when we decided to check it out. We had no idea what to expect.

For some reason (we blame Mr. Seinfeld), we had a mental picture of a handful of hippies living underground in some sort of glorified bomb shelter. What we did find was somewhat more sophisticated than that.

As we drove up, it was plain to see that this was no storm cellar. The buildings scream space age, especially against the high desert landscape. We were greeted and led into a room that served as the eating area for the “biospherians” that lived here. This is where our tour would begin.

Biosphere Living Quarters

Our guide gave us the lowdown. He explained Biosphere 2 is so named because Earth is biosphere numero uno, and then went on to the vital statistics.

Over seven million square feet of glass covers 3.14 acres of five distinct biomes, creating the largest closed system ever created. Everything is kept in ecological balance by some incredibly high-tech mechanisms.

The original concept was to study the feasibility of space colonization, so this was build as the “tightest” building on Earth. It is even sealed underground with a five hundred ton welded steel liner. The final result is a building that’s even more airtight than the space shuttle.

Before we ventured into the sealed off biomes area, our escort filled us in on the human aspects of the Biosphere experiments. Two separate groups participated in the missions.

The first eight “biospherians” were sealed in for two years starting in 1991. There were a few glitches. It took the crew some time to adjust – mostly to the diet – but in time they gained back their lost weight and ultimately raised almost all of their own food.

Social differences arose and the team split into two factions, but managed to continue their duties. Sounds like it would have made an excellent reality TV show.

Considering the length of time they were confined, we thought anything short of murder should be celebrated as a resounding victory.

Oxygen had to be added to the system twice, due to unforeseen losses from curing concrete and microbes in the soil – not boding well for living in space – but overall the experiment was reasonably successful.

The same could not be said for the second attempt in 1994. A few days after being sealed in, some of the previous mission’s crew sabotaged the experiment by breaking the seal on the Biosphere.

It went downhill from there. Bickering among the personnel, and management differences, were so bad that the scheduled ten month mission was aborted after just five. Still, for those few months, the crew did manage to grow all of their own food, so there was a glimmer of success.

Ocean Biome in Biosphere 2

The next year, Columbia University took over the site as a research facility and campus. A few years later the University of Arizona began using the site as a climate change laboratory and is continuing with ongoing research today.

With our heads chocked full of knowledge, we were ready to go in for a look. The tour took us through all five of the distinct biomes inside the sphere, beginning with the mangrove wetlands that led us along the shore of the self contained ocean, complete a with coral reef. At nearly four thousand feet above sea level, this is by far the highest ocean in the world.

Desert Biome in Biosphere 2

From the seashore, we made our way through the savannah grasslands and the fog desert biomes.

The savannah recreates African grassland while the desert is pretty close to what is going on outside the Biosphere, cacti, Joshua trees and scrub brush, but is really meant to recreate the foggy coastal areas of California and Baja.

In the middle of the desert there are stairs into the bowels of the building, where we got a first hand look at the operating systems known as the “Technosphere.”

The bowels of the Technosphere of Biosphere 2

There is a baffling maze of hallways, water pipes and electrical wiring down there. Good thing we had a guide to follow as the place was getting a bit spaceshipy and creepy (think of the movie “Alien” and you’ll get the idea).

He stopped to show us one of the twenty-six “air handlers” which heat and cool the air as well as condense water from it to serve as rain or fog and replenish the ocean. That work is done on Biosphere 1 up in the atmosphere, but in number 2 it is accomplished underground.

The Tunnel into the Lungs of the Biosphere

Another vital part of air maintenance for Biosphere 2 are the “lungs.” On a hot Arizona desert day, the air sealed inside the sphere would expand enough to blow the windows out.

Vents would normally allow for pressure equalization but Biosphere 2’s completely airtight system relies on these ingenious lungs.

When it gets warm in the sphere, the gigantic lungs are filled with the expanding air. Once it cools off, the lungs collapse to force the air back into the Biosphere.

Tropical Rainforest Biome

Back above ground, we found ourselves in a tropical rainforest. The biggest of the biomes, there are over 150 different types of plants living here, including several that once provided fruit for the occupants, as in pass me a banana.

With our tour complete, we decided to sneak a peek at some of the offices and labs in the old living quarters. I don’t think we were supposed to be there, but no one was around so we checked out the computer set ups and some of the ongoing experiments.

We were good, we didn’t touch anything. There is still a lot of real research going on, maybe even more than when they first locked those hippies inside. That makes this an even more exciting place to visit.

But two years locked in here? Neither of us were too big on that idea. Can anybody think of seven other people that they’re willing to be sealed in an airtight container with for two years?

We didn’t think so.

David & Veronica, GypsyNester.com