The GypsyNesters

How We Use the Internet While Overseas (without going broke!)

How we get Internet access while on the road is probably the most common question we are asked.

Internet access is much easier to find now than it was when we started this crazy life we lead.

When we’re in the States, we have service with us all the time because our smartphone creates its own hotspot.

But overseas, it’s a whole different enchilada… CONTINUE READING > >

Internet access is much easier to find now than it was when we started this crazy life we lead.

When we’re in the States, we have service with us all the time because our smartphone creates its own hotspot.

But overseas, it’s a whole different enchilada.

If we tried to use the Internet in the style in which we are accustomed (think tons, then double, no, triple, that), we’d go broke – fast.

Most service providers charge an arm and a leg to add an international Internet package and we don’t have (m)any limbs to spare.

So, we usually end up getting the cheapest prepaid package and hope to heck we don’t have to use all our precious bytes.

Even with severe Google withdrawals and refraining from checking our email until we’re at our hotel, we always end up using them, and more. Something inevitably comes up that chews them up.

We sometimes choose where we eat based on whether or not they have free wifi (and, trust us, that’s no way to decide on a restaurant!).

We’ve been known to stand outside a building with our tablet and glom on to random signals.

No matter where we are in the world, our first criteria in a hotel is that they have good wifi. And then, there is always that awkward request at check-in where we ask for the room closest to the wireless router.

Our favorite text from Decibel right before we went paragliding

We don’t mess around when it comes to being connected.

It is imperative that we stay in touch with our loved ones and manage to keep our stories flowing.

Thanks to Tep Wireless for providing Internet for us for 10 days! As always, all opinions are our own.

Tweeting from our balcony on our cruise ship using Tep!

So when Tep Wireless contacted us to see if we’d like to give their pocket wifi rental a go, we leapt at the chance to test drive on-the-go Internet access while outside the US.

We decided to really put Tep through the paces as we live-blogged our way through Holland and Belgium. We would be visiting big cities like Amsterdam, but would also be passing through some remote areas as we made our way from place to place on a European river cruise.

The package you get in the mail when you rent a Tep Wireless device — The device comes with a universal power adapter, a handy-dandy carrying case, a pre-paid return envelope, micro-USB cable, and instructions.

Here’s how Tep works:

– We told Tep the days we would be needing our device on the Tep website

– The unit was delivered to us by mail before we left the USA.

– Once we were finished, we just popped it into the prepaid envelope that was provided and mailed it back.

Easy peasy.

Holland and Belgium

Here’s how Tep worked for us:

When we arrived in Amsterdam — before we even left the plane — we turned on our device, entered the password, and logged in on our tablet.

Our email downloaded quickly and we were able to send out a tweet and upload a photo of Holland from the air, all before heading to customs.

The speed was good – comparable to the 4G we receive on our phone.

Veronica holds her Tep Wireless device in Holland — The device is small enough to fit in a pocket!

As we traveled to more remote regions on our cruise, the speed varied greatly, as would be expected since the device delivers service using cell signals, the same way a smartphone does.

Service was much better in Holland than Belgium and there were a few times that we didn’t have a signal at all as we sailed, but never longer than an hour.

Using Tep Wireless in Holland and Belgium! — Enjoying a fine Belgian beer in a fancy glass!

All in all, we loved having Internet in our pocket wherever we went, and much of the time we had a laptop and a tablet logged in at the same time without a noticeable loss of speed.

Live-blogging was a breeze, we were able to post more often and didn’t have to wait until we arrived back at the ship to send out our dispatches.

We got to eat where we wanted, wifi or no, hang out at destinations a bit longer, and linger over a fine Belgian beer while emailing with loved ones.

You betcha we’ll be using Tep again!

In Ireland…
Our experience was so good on our prior trip, that we decided to use Tep on our own dime in Ireland. Here’s how it went.

We put Tep through the paces in Ireland!

Connectivity was strong in Dublin, as we expected it to be, but we were very pleasantly surprised as we headed out along the Wild Atlantic Way.

Some of the places we visited were remote — to say the least — and there were very few moments where we didn’t have service. Kudos Tep!

South Africa…

We were a little hesitant to give our little Tep unit a go on our photo safari in South Africa, mainly because Kruger National Park is pretty dang remote.

By contacting Tep from their site with our concerns, we were sent a map with the locations we could expect to get service.

In Johannesburg, where we were staying before our safari, the map showed excellent service (and it was), but the Park showed up as very limited. Doing research showed us that cell service is spotty there in general as well.

Not having another option (the camp that we stayed at in the Park had no wifi either!), we decided to give it a shot anyway. We had varying service on the five (ish) hour drive between Johannesburg and Kruger, emulating an extremely rural drive just about anywhere in the world – great close to towns and villages, slower when not.

In the Park, we got better than we expected. The service map told us that we wouldn’t get anything at our camp (but we got slow connections, and were sooooo happy to have it!) and nothing while driving around (it came and went – but it was there!).

Our advice is: If you are going on photo safari, just be in the moment and forget about wifi, but if you HAVE to have it, Tep worked for us. Contact them ahead of time and let them know where you’ll be when traveling in South Africa in general, just so you know what to expect.

In Sicily, Italy

Our bicycle tour of the coastal cities of Sicily was phenomenal – riding out trusty steeds all day – then eating as much Sicilian food as we wanted at night.

Then in the morning and noon too.

And, as we rolled along, the granita and gelato stops were frequent.

Our little Tep unit traveled along with us every step,

or should we say pedal, of the way – so we could share our culinary adventures with ease! Not one outage anywhere – Sicily’s covered!

We’ve been so pleased with Tep Wireless that we’ve decided to fully endorse the product and become an affiliate. We get a little bit of money if folks use the service from links on this page, just so you know. As always, all opinions are our own.

David and Veronica, GypsyNester.com

YOUR TURN: Questions? Comments? Tips to share? Let ’em fly!

Seeing the Rainforest for the Trees, Reforesting the Dominican Republic

We got grubby — for good!

It was a dirty job to say the least, but it feels good to get really filthy sometimes. Ask any kid. Life rocks under the warm Dominican sun… CONTINUE READING >>

A big thank you to Fathom Travel for providing this impact + travel opportunity so we can share their good work. As always, all opinions are our own.

On the island of Hispaniola, which the Dominican Republic shares with Haiti, deforestation is a huge problem.

The lack of trees can lead to soil erosion with dangerous runoff and pollution, as well as deadly landslides after heavy rains.

Even though the problem is much more serious on the Haitian side of the island, the Dominican portion also has many areas where the forests have been cut down.

Fathom has developed a program with the government’s Ministry of Environment and IDDI (Instituto Dominicano de Desarrollo Integral or Dominican Institute for Integral Development), that encourages volunteers from their cruise ships to have a definite impact on the future of the forests.

We took a day to join those groups and plant endemic tropical cedar trees along the slopes of the mountains in the Yasica region.

Large swaths of rainforest have been cleared for agricultural purposes, and that has negatively impacted the river that gives the area its name.

The effects are felt downstream in the city of Puerto Plata because Rio Yasica feeds the municipal water supply.

The ride up into some of the highest mountains in the Caribbean gave us some spectacular views of the valleys and coastline below.

As we climbed higher we realized that an added benefit of the altitude was that it was a whole lot cooler too.

We certainly came to appreciate that a little later while working in the sun.

After meeting with our team leaders, we hiked into a valley that drains into the river and passed by thousands of baby trees that had been planted by prior Fathom travelers.

Sticks are used to show where trees are planted in the rainforest — Thousands of sticks marked where trees had been planted before us!

Then, upon arriving at our area, we got a quick lesson in the planting procedure and set to work.

First we measured the distance between the spots for planting with a four-meter pole, so that the trees would not be too close together.

Each little seedling needs plenty of room to grow into a mature tree, so they start life by saying to each other, “I wouldn’t touch you with a four meter pole.”

Once the spots were marked, we dug holes and planted our babies, marking each spot with a stick so we could avoid stepping on them while we scurried around the hillside.

Not exactly high tech, but it got the job done.

Over the next few hours our crew spread across the valley, measuring, digging, and planting until we had three hundred and eighty new trees ready to grow in the warm Dominican sun.

A dirty job to say the least, but it feels good to get really filthy sometimes.

Ask any kid.

WATCH: It’s not exactly high tech, but gets the job done.

The fruit of our labors may not be apparent for several decades, but as the trees mature they will provide stability to the soil, habitat for wildlife, help clean the air, and perhaps even a shady spot for us to visit should we return in thirty or forty years.

How’s that for optimistic?

Amber Cove in the Dominican Republic — Amber Cove

All of that measuring, digging, and planting sure did work up an appetite, so after returning to the ship and cleaning up we ventured out on our own to the nearby little village of Maimon.

We debated walking, but our tired muscles decided on a quick taxi jaunt from our docking spot in Amber Cove.

We hopped out at the Pescaderia Los Primos, but decided to keep our legs limber and stroll around the neighborhood to see a bit of local life before dinner.

While we walked we were greeted by many of the townsfolk, including the best saleswoman ever, who convinced us to take a look at her house.

Her casa also happened to be a gift shop, and we couldn’t help but buy a couple of items.

It was impossible to miss the fact that this was an election year in the Dominican Republic.

There were colorful signs everywhere and the mood festive with vehicles blaring music and candidate endorsements from speakers mounted on their roofs, along with spontaneous parades of flag waving supporters taking to the streets.

Back at the pescaderia we met a few folks from the ship and sat down to a beautiful meal of spiny lobster, a whole red snapper, luscious seafood soup, and tostones, and washed it all down with a couple of almost-frozen Presidentes.

That just might have been the perfect end to a day of service.

David and Veronica, GypsyNester.com

See our entire volunteer cruise to the Dominican Republic here!

A big thank you to Fathom Travel for providing this impact + travel opportunity so we can share their good work. As always, all opinions are our own.

YOUR TURN:

The Weight of Six Million Paper Clips – an Unlikely Holocaust Memorial in Tennessee

In a tiny town in Tennessee there is a monument so moving, so touching — and so unlikely — that the story behind it is almost unbelievable.

Here is a tale of a group of school children who found out that even the smallest idea can spark a worldwide movement.

And how compassion can change the world… CONTINUE READING >>

The story of how children collected paper clips to remember the Holocaust victims

As we approached Chattanooga, Veronica’s memory vault popped open.

“Isn’t that train car full of paper clips around here?”

My slightly less-than-razor-sharp recall had no idea what she was talking about.

The Steel Monument at the Children's Holocaust Memorial

“Remember the movie we saw a few years ago about the kids who collected paper clips to visualize the victims of the holocaust?

I think that happened right near here.”

A flicker of recognition was ignited. It was coming back to me.

The documentary was called Paper Clips, and it did take place right outside of Chattanooga, in the tiny town of Whitwell, Tennessee to be exact.

Back in 1998, teachers noticed that students couldn’t fully grasp the enormity of the number six million when discussing the Jewish victims of the holocaust.

Then the students came up with an idea.

After learning about the mandatory stars that Jews were required to wear on their clothing, and how some people showed solidarity with the Jewish people’s plight by wearing paper clips, they set out to collect six million paper clips.

Whitwell Middle School. Students here collected paper clips to remember the Holocaust victims

The documentary had really moved us and we couldn’t pass up the chance to see the result of these children’s efforts.

So we broke out the maps and found our way to 1 Butterfly Lane and the Whitwell Middle School.

At first sight the school looked like a typical American school, until we spotted the World War II era German boxcar in front.

The Children's Holocaust Memorial in Whitwell Tennessee

The German train car filled with paper clips

The train car, which was actually used to carry prisoners to concentration camps, has become home to the millions of collected clips.

Once we climbed aboard we discovered just how many millions.

Standing silently alone inside the car, absorbing the gravity of this powerful, emotional monument, we pushed the button for the audio presentation.

Sign outside the door of the train car of paper clips

The narration took us through the story from the very beginning.

At first the students brought paper clips from home or asked family and friends to contribute, then the idea began to spread.

They set up a web page asking for help, and for people to share their thoughts and feelings about the Holocaust.

A few weeks later the first letter arrived, then more, and by the end of that school year the class had 700,000 paper clips.

Inside the train car of the Children's Holocaust Memorial

Within a couple years not only had they reached their goal of six million, they had passed it.

Along the way incredible, compelling stories were coming in with the clips from all over the world.

Enter two reporters from Germany, Peter Schroeder and Dagmar Schroeder-Hildebrand, whose involment took the project a quantum leap forward.

They found the children’s story so compelling that they located a boxcar at a museum in Röbel and raised enough through donations to buy it for the school.

A few years later they wrote a book titled Six Million Paper Clips: The Making of A Children’s Holocaust Memorial.

Paper clips and mementos in the train car at the Children's Holocaust Memorial

Several companies, on both sides of the Atlantic, pitched in to move the car to the spot where it stands today and the scale of the project was changed forever.

The car was filled with not six million, but eleven million paper clips.

One to commemorate each of the Jewish victims, as well as all of the other casualties of the Holocaust. The multitude of clips are held in two large cases on each end of the car.

Displayed among the clips are letters and other mementos that have been sent along over the years.

Paper clips and mementos in the train car at the Children's Holocaust Memorial

Even after the Children’s Holocaust Memorial was dedicated the clips kept coming in, enough that another eleven million are enshrined in a steel monument, designed by Charles McFarland, that stands alongside the railcar.

But there are still more, over thirty million total to date, with more arriving every day.

Paper clips and mementos in the train car at the Children's Holocaust Memorial

We did our best to absorb the numbers, and realized how successful the memorial was at illustrating the gravity of the horrible events.

A sign filled with quotes on the inside of the train car at the Children's Holocaust Memorial in Tennessee

The German train car filled with paper clips

Imagining each clip as a human life was astounding and shocking in the reality they brought to light.

The weight of the suffering of the people carried to their untimely deaths in this very car was crushing.

Veronica stood beside me, openly sobbing.

When the narration was finished we stood in silence again, not ready to leave the hallowed place just yet.

Finally we made our way down and lingered for a few minutes in the garden area around the old boxcar.

The back of the train filled with paper clips in Whitwell Tennesee

It was hard to leave, we both stopped several times to look back as we walked away.

The project accomplished much more than its original goals.

It took on a life of its own and grew far beyond making a number from history tangible to an imaginative group of young people.

That number became real lives.

Lives that we are compelled to look back on, to remember, to never forget.

David, GypsyNester.com

See all of our adventures in Tennessee!

YOUR TURN: Had you heard of this memorial, movie, or book before? Is this an amazing, inspiring story or what?

Travel Photography Etiquette for Traveling Families

My family doesn’t get to travel often, but when we do, we try to make the most out of our vacations.

That’s why it’s so frustrating to encounter those annoying travelers who take forever to snap their photos in a historical landmark without giving other people the opportunity to have their photos taken there, too. Haven’t they heard of “etiquette”?

Aside from giving our fellow travels some common courtesies, we also have to respect the local communities. Different countries have cultural norms that differ from our own, and we can’t just ignore this fact as we travel. We have to be sensitive and respectful of other cultures, and this includes being mindful when taking travel photos.

Traveling families, particularly parents, need to understand that observing photography etiquette is just as important as taking great vacation photos. As tourists, the last thing we want to happen is to upset our fellow travelers and the locals, disrespect their culture, and come across as insensitive, arrogant people.

Here are some rules of photography etiquette for traveling families:

Don’t Spend Too Much Time Taking Photos

To get the perfect shot, it takes so long for some people to adjust the manual settings of their camera, unmindful of other people who also want to take pictures at the same spot.

People get that you’re with your family, and every photo counts. But please be sensitive enough, especially if you happen to be taking too much time snapping your family photo.

So that you can quickly tweak your camera settings, it’s best to bring a camera that allows easy adjustment according to your desired setting.

Every time I take photos of my family’s vacation, I bring my Nikon COOLPIX 900 because it’s not just compact and easy to carry but also quick to adjust. While the COOLPIX 900 has a full manual control, you have the option to use it like a point and shoot, making it perfect for capturing spontaneous moments with the family without having to take time adjusting its settings.

And to avoid re-taking a photo a lot of times, make sure to compose your subject properly and get it right on the first shot. You don’t want to wait forever for your turn, right? So refrain from making others wait, too.

Wait for Your Turn

Photo by EthanChiang / CC BY-NC-ND 2.0big thank you

If you want to shoot a stunning view, but other families are still taking their photos or are lining up to have their pictures taken, let them finish first before you take your turn.

That way, your family doesn’t crowd the area and get in the way of other families taking their photos.

If they’re taking much time and don’t seem to mind other people around, a respectful and gentle “excuse me” can do the trick.

Don’t Block the View

Photo by David Santaolalla / CC BY 2.0

As much as you want to revel in the beauty of a place and take a bunch of photos of it, there are also other families that would want to snap a photo without you photobombing it.

Also keep an eye on your children—they might run around and unintentionally ruin other people’s photos.

Always remind your kids to stay away from families or any group that are taking photos.

Always Ask Permission

Want to take a photo of locals?

You’ve got to ask them first if it’s okay that you take their photos.

Consider that in some cultures, being photographed by a stranger (in this case, it’s you) can be really uncomfortable to a local.

The same rule applies to places. If you find a beautiful spot that’s privately owned by a local, make sure to ask permission if it’s okay to use it as a background for your family photo. Locals are often accommodating and friendly to tourists, so don’t be shy to ask.

If language is a barrier, ask the help of your tour guide, or better yet, learn some of the basic words in their dialect.

Be Culturally Sensitive

Beyond being tourist attractions, shrines and temples are sacred places of worship to the locals.

You don’t want to distract them while they’re praying or meditating with your camera flash or the sound of your camera shutter.

It’s also disrespectful to block their way just because you’re trying to compose a perfect shot of a statue.

If your family has to take photos in a temple, better do it outside. If you’re lucky, monks will let you take photos inside. Just make sure that you get an approval like a nod or a smile. If you think it’s inappropriate to take photos, don’t do it and just follow your gut.

Follow Photography Rules

Some places have strict photography rules that every visitor has to follow. Watch out for signs regarding taking pictures.

If you don’t see anything, it’s best to ask a guard or someone who knows the place if it’s fine to snap a couple of photos.

For example, in museums, you can’t use your camera’s flash because it can affect the artifacts being preserved. If you don’t want guards to lecture you about their rules, just abide by them.

Avoid Taking Photos Inside Stores

Stores are located in public places, but that doesn’t mean you can just snap away. You may find it harmless, but many store owners feel otherwise—they find it disrespectful when tourists take photos of their product displays or even just the facade of their store.

We experienced it ourselves on our visit in Macau. My family tried to pose in front of a Louis Vuitton store; shortly after, the guard walked towards me and signaled that taking photos was not allowed. He asked me to delete the photos, which I immediately did to avoid being questioned by the security.

Always Say Thank You

Whether your photo was taken by a local or you posed with some people, don’t forget to say thanks. Be respectful and grateful to people who played a part in your family’s memorable travel experience.

A simple “thank you” will definitely put a smile on their faces. Always remember that you and your family are guests in their country, and it’s your responsibility to adjust, relate, and connect with the locals to the best of your ability.

When you plan a family trip, research the cultural dos and don’ts of the country or city you’re going to visit. Make sure to orient each family member on the beliefs and rules they should always keep in mind. This way, you won’t offend anybody during your trip.

A collaborative article with Liz Pekler. Though we agree with (almost) all she says, her opinions are her own.

Come Blow Your Hoorn in Holland

Rooted in the Dutch Golden Age, Hoorn made her name by welcoming ships laden with treasure into her harbor.

Today, we found Hoorn just as welcoming; where else can you learn to eat herring like a Dutchman – from the former town mayor?

Or be welcomed into a home near a cannonball-deflecting defense tower?

And Veronica nearly lost her hand at the infamous Roode Steen… CONTINUE READING >>

Sunrise over Lake IJsselmeer in Holland, The Netherlands — Sunrise from our private balcony

As we approached the town of Hoorn we experienced a rare occurrence on a river cruise, there was no land in sight.

We sat on our balcony gazing at what looked to be sunrise over the ocean.

No wonder, this was an arm of the North Sea at one time, but now is a freshwater lake called IJsselmeer.

As part of their never ending battle against the water, the Dutch dammed the bay in 1932 and within a few years water from the river Ijssel had replaced the saltwater.

During Holland’s Golden Age, in the sixteen hundreds, the town of Hoorn had been a major port for the Dutch East India Company.

Ships laden with treasures from across the globe sailed in constantly, but now instead of naval warships and merchant vessels, the harbor is filled with cruise ships and private yachts.

When we disembarked, we noticed that these present day peaceful vessels are still protected by a semi-circular defensive tower situated so that any approaching enemy could easily be fired upon.

Feeling fairly safe, especially since no hostilities have happened here for centuries, we went in for a closer look.

The side of the stronghold facing the water is curved to deny cannonballs a flat surface to hit, nothing but glancing blows for this fortress.

Statue of ship boys in Hoorn, Holland, The Netherlands — We LOVED these three young “ship boys” from the front…

If anything, the sea has caused more damage than any artillery, but now that the salt is gone we can look forward to the tower standing for another five hundred years.

After our inspection of the fortifications, a small group of us from the ship met up with the former mayor of Hoorn, Jos, for a truly inside scoop on the real Dutch way to devour herring.

Back when Hoorn was a thriving seaport herring was king around here, and the salted fish has remained a staple of the Dutch diet for a long, long time…

It certainly seemed like we should give this Dutch sushi a try, so we followed Jos to a little fish shop on the harbor for a lesson in proper consumption of raw, salted herring.

Eating a Herring Like a Real Dutchman

Jos knew everyone in the place, and the shop had just about anything that comes from the sea available, but we were there for only one thing.

He asked the lady behind the counter prepare us each a serving the traditional way, with onion and pickle, but he was having none of that.

He was ready to demonstrate how a real Dutchman eats a herring!

He grabbed a good looking specimen by the tail, threw back his head, and downed the whole fish with no accompaniments at all.

(We got the distinct feeling that Jos got into the tour guidin’ business for the free “demo” fish)

Not feeling that brave, we opted for a couple of our small pieces topped with pickle and heavy on the onion, hoping to hide some of the fishy flavor.

The piscine piquancy was not that strong, and was easily overpowered by the onion, but the texture, cold, slightly gelatinous, and raw, left a lot to be desired.

Must be an acquired taste.

Living the Hoorn Life

After our meeting with the mayor, the folks at Viking had set up an interesting surprise for us for the afternoon; the chance to visit with a host family in their home.

This afforded us the opportunity to see typical Dutch life in a personal way, and get to know people who are happy to meet travelers from around the world.

A visit to a home in Hoorn, Holland, The Netherlands — Lola-eye view from Veronica’s lap

It was also chance to finally get a glimpse inside one of the skinny houses that had captured our attention throughout Holland on our previous visits.

Our band of shipmates separated into small groups and went off to various houses.

Our group was hosted by Steef and Lia, and their adorable dog Lola, who welcomed us in to sit down for coffee, dog petting, apple pie, stroopwafels, and great conversation.

(Veronica gave some thought to smuggling out her new buddy, Lola the Lap Dog, but—not knowing the Dutch custom—decided that it might be considered rude.)

Our initial concerns that these visits could be uncomfortable, or seem forced, disappeared within a few minutes. In no time we were all happily chatting about our families, travels, backgrounds, and even home improvements.

Their two hundred year-old home is wonderfully remodeled, and Steef and Lia were more than happy to show off their handiwork, family photos, and an amazing collection of Christmas decorations in the guest bedroom that Lia calls “The Museum.”

The view from Steef and Lia’s rear balcony

Time flew by and before we knew it over an hour had passed.

Steef and Lia’s grandbaby would be coming by soon, so we needed to clear out and let the couple enjoy the rest of their day.

We said our thank yous and goodbyes and got on our way with a much better understanding of what it is like to live in Hoorn.

Hoping to continue that feeling, we walked over to the town’s main square, Roode Steen, to partake in the afternoon activities and soak up some sun.

On that warm spring afternoon, it seemed as though the entire town had turned out with the same idea.

Blood from a Stone

Statue of Jan Pietersz Coen in Hoorne, Holland, The Netherlands — Love him or hate him: Statue of Hoorn’s most controversial homeboy, Jan Pietersz Coen.

Roode Steen means red stone, as in blood red, because this was the site of public punishments for criminals.

Often those judgments included removal of body parts, up to and including the head, so the stone took on the color of the spilled blood.

The round rock marking the spot today is a replica of the original, but that didn’t stop David from mimicking a criminal about to lose his hand for thievery.

Veronica was too chicken to try, just in case the authorities had caught on as to how much she was coveting Lola the Lap Dog.

It’s doubtful that justice is currently dispensed like this in Hoorn.

But we weren’t taking any chances.

David and Veronica, GypsyNester.com

Thanks to Viking River Cruises for inviting us along and providing this adventure through the tulips and windmills of Holland and Belgium with stops in Amsterdam, Kinderdijk, Antwerp, Bruges, Veere, Hoorn, and Arnhem.

YOUR TURN: Did Veronica do the right thing by leaving Lola with her family? Would it have been the Red Stone for her?

The Birds of St. Mary’s, Newfoundland

On the far southern tip of Newfoundland live so many birds it was actually shocking.

Bird Rock is a massive dome, covered with nesting gannets and penguin-like auks, jutting out of a huge canyon with vertical sides that fall more than thirty stories straight down to the sea.

Spectacular!… CONTINUE READING >>

We are so grateful to Newfoundland and Labrador Tourism for making this adventure possible. As always, all opinions are our own.

Almost as an afterthought to our two weeks in Newfoundland we decided to spend our last night on the far southern tip of the island at to visit Cape St. Mary’s Ecological Reserve.

Several of the incredibly friendly folks we’d met along our journey had recommended a stop at the ecological reserve out on this lonely point. They all guaranteed that we’d see birds, lots of birds… and maybe even puffins.

But as we made our way down the incredibly steep, winding road leading to the cape the idea was starting to seem a little bird brained.

Then the fog rolled in and we were fairly convinced that nothing could be worth driving through such pea soup.

We should have just stayed in Argentia and waited for the ferry back to the mainland the next day.

Cape St. Mary's Ecological Reserve Interperative Center in the heavy fog — The interpretive centre

But we had gone too far to turn back so we drove blindly, very slowly, down the tiny road leading to the reserve.

Boy are we glad we did!

Even through the murky mist the sight and sound of thousands upon thousands of birds clinging to a cliff was well worth our effort.

By the time we walked back the half mile trail from bird rock to the interpretive centre we were soaked to the skin from the thick vapor.

After shaking it off like wet dogs we had a chat with the resident ranger.

We were extremely excited by what we had been able to see and since we were staying the night we asked what the chances of a clear day in the morning might be.

He explained that this sort of weather was the norm, over two hundred days a year the cape is socked in. The nearby fog horn we heard wailing must really get a work out.

See all the exciting food (and drink) we found in Newfoundland!

But then he offered a couple of what turned out to be great suggestions.

Try coming back in the morning because sometimes the fog comes and goes – offering an occasional clear view.

And try the Gannet’s Nest restaurant by the RV park for the best fish & chips in Newfoundland.

He was most certainly right about the restaurant, fantastic fresh, crispy, lightly breaded fish right out of the nearby water.

Plus, they had something we had never seen before and doubt we will ever again, Bottle Moose.

Several problems with that leapt to our minds. First and foremost, we are fairly certain that moose don’t actually exist.

Even if they did, they would never fit into a bottle.

With that cleared up we discussed the local dialect. We had noticed when we stopped for gas in St. Brides, the nearest town, that the accent sounded like it was straight out of Scotland. So while we ate we listened in on some of the chatter around the room. Once our fish was devoured, Veronica decided to talk to some of the patrons and see if they would teach her some of the lingo.

WATCH: Meet our amazing tutors!

We did learn some new phrases, had more than our share of hearty laughter, and got an invite to stay the night. This was right in keeping with our experiences throughout Newfoundland, the nicest people anywhere.

At daybreak the next morning the fog had lifted, so we frantically broke camp and made our way to the reserve.

Our hopes were sky high until we got near the coast and the fog began to roll in again.

Discouraged, we still decided to give the birds another look, and as we approached the cliffs a magical thing took place. The clouds parted and revealed a truly awesome sight.

Seeing clearly what was so thickly shrouded the day before was actually shocking. We had not seen even a quarter of the birds nesting along the sheer rock walls.

We also had no idea how far the drop-off down to the ocean was, or how close to the edge we had been. There is a huge canyon with vertical sides that fall more than thirty stories straight down to the sea.

WATCH: SOOOO many birds!

With visibility restored, we could see how the colony consists of many different species of birds.

The free-standing, island mountain in the middle, known as Bird Rock, is completely covered by gannets. Northern gannets to be precise, around twenty thousand of them.

Laying on the ground to get as close to the edge as possible, we were able to spot a few chicks peeking out of the nests.

The mating pairs each have one egg that they take turns incubating, and then feeding the hatchling.

See all of our Newfoundland adventures!

We also noticed that gannets look a lot like the blue-footed boobies we saw in The Galapagos Islands.

There’s a good reason for that, turns out they are closely related to boobies.

Black-legged Kittiwakes and gannets in St. Mary's Ecological Reserve in Newfoundland — Black-legged kittiwakes and gannets living together!

The cliffs on either side of Bird Rock are covered with innumerable other birds.

There are about as many of both black-legged kittiwakes and common murres as there are gannets.

All in all, well over fifty thousand birds. Between the drifting fog banks we got good views of most of them.

Common murres at Cape St. Mary's Ecological Park — Common murres

The kittiwakes, members of the gull family, tend to occupy the highest ground, while several types of auks: the common murre, thick-billed murre, and razorbill, nest closer to the water.

The auks look for all the world like penguins, but they can fly… barely.

We were highly entertained watching them frantically flapping their stubby wings attempting to get airborne. Jumping off the cliffs worked much better, still they would drop like a rock for a few moments before moving enough air to take flight.

Cormorants and a few black guillemot can also be spotted along the rocks, but the hit and miss fog was beginning to hit more than miss, and our time was running low, so we made our way back to the interpretive centre.

This was where we finally spotted a puffin.

Unfortunately, not of the live variety.

That will just have to wait until we can return to this amazing place known as Newfoundland.

David & Veronica, GypsyNester.com

See all of our Newfoundland adventures!

We are so grateful to Newfoundland and Labrador Tourism for making this adventure possible. As always, all opinions are our own.

Spectacular Cape St. Mary’s Eco Reserve in Newfoundland

Soooooo many birds – and soooo high up!… Read our full adventure

See more photos and read our full adventure >>

Soooooo many birds – and soooo high up!

The free-standing, island mountain in the middle, known as Bird Rock, is completely covered by gannets. Northern gannets to be precise, around twenty thousand of them.

The cliffs on either side of Bird Rock are covered with innumerable other birds.

There are about as many of both black-legged kittiwakes and common murres as there are gannets. All in all, well over fifty thousand birds. Between the drifting fog banks we got good views of most of them… See more photos and read our full adventure >>

See all of our Newfoundland adventures!

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