Ever wonder how the beautiful silhouette scenes of Africa make it on to fabric?
We did and, as part of our Discover Corps experience in Tanzania, we learned the secret.
We even got to try our hand at making our own.
The method is called batik and the process uses colorful dyes — controlled by… CONTINUE READING >>
Ever wonder how the beautiful silhouette scenes of Africa make it on to fabric?
We did and, as part of our Discover Corps experience in Tanzania, we learned the secret. We even got to try our hand at making our own.
The method is called batik and the process uses colorful dyes — controlled by applying wax to cloth — to create the images.
The idea of the our endeavor was to (hopefully) bring out our artistic qualities.
As we began they seemed to be fairly well concealed, but the group of artists who came to visit us at our homebase were as patient as they were talented, and coaxed us into making bold attempts.
We were each issued a piece of fabric and a pencil to begin our endeavors.
The idea was to sketch a picture that would then be dyed into the material.
Looking around the table we noticed many diligent, yet somewhat pained expressions on the faces of our Discover Corps mates.
Many of us were unknowingly doing the classic tongue-sticking-out-of-the-side-of our-mouth and slightly-bitten look of a kid really bearing down on something.
Once we managed to draw something loosely resembling a picture, wax was applied to all areas that would remain white.
The wax acts as a shield so, when dye is applied, the colors wouldn’t affect the waxed portions.
Once the wax hardened, the staining process began.
Wanting a sunset silhouette, we chose vivid colors of red and yellow — to blend into the brilliant oranges of sundown — and the dyes were applied to the entire cloth.
After the background was laid down, the fabric was dried over a charcoal fire.
Once dried, more wax could be applied to the entire cloth – minus the areas that would ultimately be black. So our happy little tree was left unwaxed.
This enabled our tribe of less-than-precise artists to color the waxless areas without the worry of the dye going all willy-nilly.
Brilliant!
We painted in the black dye with a tiny brush to the proper areas, and, upon completion, the drying process was repeated.
To remove the wax, we simply rubbed the fabric against itself vigorously.
In Tanzania, nothing is wasted; the wax that fell from our masterpieces was gathered and returned to the melting pot to be used again.
We then ran a hot iron over our cloth to melt away any remnants.
Viola! We had our masterpieces.
Actually, many members of our group made very impressive scenes, however David’s elephant’s head came out looking more like a cassowary than a pachyderm.
An experience that will live in our hearts forever.
In Tanzania, we spent mornings teaching English and afternoons refurbishing a classroom.
Each of these tasks offered unexpected rewards and challenges and resulted in emotions and memories that will last our lifetimes… CONTINUE READING >>
The idea of voluntourism is just what the newly invented word implies, tourism that incorporates volunteer work.
This concept is fast becoming popular among travelers, and we were thrilled at the opportunity to join with Discover Corps, an organization that works closely with highly vetted, local community leaders.
Of course there are many other opportunities to volunteer available, such as this one that our friend Agness at ETramping.com enjoyed in Guinea – West Africa.
We traveled to Tanzania to experience the phenomenon firsthand.
As tourists, we would see and climb (half way) Kilimanjaro, spend a day with the Maasai people, learn how to make batik, watch and join in dances, go on safari, and immerse ourselves in the day to day life of the Chagga who inhabit the region.
The volunteer portion of our trip was focused on the Lunguo Primary School near the village of Rau.
We spent mornings teaching English and afternoons refurbishing a classroom.
Each of these tasks offered unexpected rewards and challenges and resulted in emotions and memories that will last our lifetimes.
Luckily, Discover Corps works with a local leader, the incredible Mama Simba, who was on hand to help us with the language barrier, provide us with lesson plans, and instruct us on the local customs we needed to know to be effective in the classroom.
On the teaching front, we encountered several obstacles the school has been unable to overcome.
There was a woeful lack of supplies and workbooks at the school.
In our class there was only one ragged book for every six students, and many of our students shared pens and paper.
Our temporary solution was to integrate visual aids and edutainment into our teaching methods.
Our fellow teammate, Jeff, took charge by enlisting help in finding the items described in the workbook while Veronica wrote out the sentences from our lesson plan on the blackboard.
In no time Mama Simba found drums, Jeff’s daughter Annie picked flowers, and a couple of kids produced a pair of buckets (seemingly out of nowhere!).
We then replaced the fictitious characters from the textbooks with our pupils’ names and suddenly the kids really seemed to enjoy the task of repeating the questions and answers such as “Whose drums are these?” and “These are Luc’s buckets.”
The children took new interest in writing the phrases in their notebooks, most with remarkable penmanship.
As we began our second day of teaching the children greeted us with a song.
After blazing through their lessons of the day, sixty pairs of third-grade eyes looked to us for guidance.
It soon became obvious that our attempt to skip ahead to the lesson planned for the following day wasn’t going to work – another few rounds of writing questions and answers on the chalkboard and in their notebooks wasn’t going inspiring any of our little guys.
They were getting a tad restless.
Teachers are Hilarious!
Then it hit us, let’s sing!
David is an ex-music teacher, so incorporating music into our lesson easily comes to him.
Learning animal names was the day’s agenda, so a spirited rendition of Old MacDonald’s Farm was just the ticket to burn off some excess energy.
After a bit of a pronunciation snafu (we wrote “e i e i o” on the board, rather than the common international vocalization of “i e i e o”), acting out the animal sounds was a big hit, especially when Jeff led a procession of chickens around our classroom.
Clucking and flapping ruled the day!
After a few days the kids were beginning to know us a bit better, and the natural leaders (and class clowns) stepped up in their roles.
Their examples seemed to help the more timid students come out of their shells as well, so all of the class was now participating.
Even if our teaching methods were somewhat unconventional for Tanzania, we hoped to impress memories that our kids would retain, and recall the English names of everyday items such as musical instruments, farm animals, and body parts (Head, Shoulders, Knees and Toes was another greatest hit in our repertoire).
David’s hat was a hit!
As the days went by and we grew closer to the teacher in charge of our classroom, we felt comfortable asking if we could purchase additional workbooks for the kids.
When she gave the go-ahead, we found a store that sold school supplies and bought all twenty copies that they had in stock.
The additional books, while not enough to bring the total up to where each pupil had their own, helped immensely. Little things, like handing out pencils, pens, and paper that they kids could call their own, also garnered great excitement.
Perhaps we learned the bigger lesson that day: appreciate the simple things.
The little guys absolutely lit up when receiving the simplest gifts.
A cute little sticker for a job well done, brought smiles that would rival any child’s Christmas morning grin (and often ended up on a forehead!).
Their happiness was completely contagious and without a doubt we received as much from them as they did from us in our short stint as teachers.
Getting to Know You
Our English lessons were the last class before lunch and we had time to socialize with our students during recess, as well.
Students bring bowls from home and carry them to the school kitchen.
One of the many challenges that Longuo Primary School faces is no electricity, so the kitchen is outdoors and the food is cooked over an open fire.
Provisions have been donated for a year by a good samaritan so the children can have a good meal.
For some, Mama Simba told us, it is the only meal they get all day.
Older students help out in the kitchen.
We were moved by a little one who had a tiny ball of rice.
Instead of eating it by herself, she shared with many other children.
Mama Simba explained to us the concept of chakula ni mavi – food is nothing; remember what is important.
Food is always shared and given freely.
The noon meal almost included ugali, a staple of the Tanzanian diet that is a thick corn meal porridge.
Other ingredients can be added, often provided from the garden at the school.
The children tended to the plants each morning, watering from jugs that they bring from home.
After lunch, we had a bit of time to play soccer (we got owned), bang makeshift drums (David’s favorite pastime), or simply sit under the trees and enjoy each other’s company.
Our rockstars!
WATCH: A day in the life with our wonderful students!
Donning our Construction Helmets
Our classroom “before”
Our afternoons were filled with reconstruction.
Changing from our more formal teaching clothes into our work duds, we got ready to get dig into some serious renovations.
The original project was to be a simple painting job of a classroom, but as we surveyed the situation it quickly became clear that we wanted to go beyond that on our own.
We decided that painting would be nearly futile unless we repaired the leaking roof and replaced the rotting ceiling panels.
But funds for this were not available in either the Discover Corps or the school’s budgets.
Our new buddy Jeff stepped up big time though, and took the lead. His experience as a remodeler kicked in and next thing we knew we were pricing materials at a hardware store a few miles away in Moshi.
Looked like the project could be tackled for a reasonable price and everyone in our group excitedly threw in donations to cover the costs.
The distressing condition of our project classroom was unfortunately not an outlier at Lunguo. The school had no electricity or running water, and we don’t even want to get into the toilet situation – we’ll let it stand as heartbreaking.
But, we had seen what the prior Discover Corps teams had achieved in other classrooms, and were heartened by the results.
With our assessments made, the first item on the agenda would be the easiest, and cleanest, task that we were likely to encounter throughout the job, take the “before” pictures.
We could hardly wait to see the “after.”
Armed with fresh supplies, our band of volunteers divided into groups and dug into our initial tasks.
While some of us were cleaning and sanding the walls to prepare for a new coat of paint, others were painting the new ceiling tiles before installation, and the rest of us were tackling tearing out the old ceiling.
Kicking up dust: Veronica learns to use an African broom.
The old saying, it’s a dirty job but someone’s got to do it, certainly described our efforts and, by the end of day one, we could have been called the dirty dozen.
Over the next few days, our Discover Corps team stepped into the role of construction crew with gusto.
With the old ceiling removed we could seal the holes in the tin roof and avoid any future water damage to our new panels.
By the end of the first week we felt like we had things pretty well in hand and would be ready to paint the room and install the panels when we returned the following Monday. But there were unforeseen roadblocks ahead.
We had overlooked the fact that the beams that held the panels in place were far from straight, so aligning the ceiling was almost impossible. David and Jeff had expected the installation to be relatively simple.
Wrong! That same crooked wood was also incredibly hard, making driving nails quite a chore, especially from underneath… while standing on rickety desks.
After an entire afternoon we only had handful in place. Mama Simba was correct when she had suggested that perhaps we had bitten off more that we could chew.
The school’s headmaster suggested a carpenter friend to come help and we gladly accepted.
By the end of the next day, we had nicknamed him “Nail Gun” because we have never seen such a machine when it came to driving a nail, he was nothing short of awesome.
Without Nail Gun we never would have finished.
Learning to Pick Corn with our Pupils
One of our days was spent in a different kind of lesson – harvesting corn on a donated plot of land.
Our crew fanned out, each of us joined one of the many teams of two kids that shucked and bagged cobs row by row.
Once the corn is picked, it will be stripped off of the cobs, dried in the sun, and ground into flour.
The corn meal is mixed with water to make the staple dish ugali, which serves as a huge part of the kid’s lunches.
This is served with stew or beans and is sometimes supplemented with vegetables from the school garden.
However, most of the produce that the kids help grow is sold to raise funds for the school’s operation.
We were going to Ngorongoro Crater and Tarangire National Park for safari over the weekend of our second week of teaching, returning for our last day on Monday.
Our students run to the classroom windows to say goodbye as we drove away in the bus. We were a little disruptive. 😉
Upon our return on Monday, we stopped by to say goodbye to our students and had a chance to take some “after” photos. The room looked great, the kids were happy, and we all felt satisfied with a job well done.
The Water Problem
But there was still one more thing nagging at us.
While inspecting the grounds at the beginning of our visit, we learned that the lack of running water was just a matter of hooking up to the city lines at the road.
The other plumbing was already in place within the compound.
All that was required to alleviate the need of the students transporting water from place-to-place was about a hundred yards of pipe and a connection. We were out of time to do the job ourselves, but perhaps we could leave a lasting mark on the school by providing such a basic need as running water.
As it was, the children carried the water needed to wash up and water their garden in buckets and plastic jugs.
The solution seemed simple to us, but life is much different at the school, so a combination of lack of funds and no one overseeing the maintenance of the school made the problem out of reach to the teachers and students.
Once again Jeff took the lead. He spoke with the headmistress again, who got a plumber to come take a look at the situation and give us an estimate. As we thought, it was not a huge problem, at least not to us. However, a few hundred dollars can be overwhelming for the school.
With another collection we easily gathered the funds and, by the time we returned to the States, an emailed photo showing running water at the school awaited our arrival.
The email was certainly not the only way that good feelings followed us home, we are left with lasting memories that we hold close in our hearts.
The kindness of the teachers (and the incredible work they do with so little), the feeling of making a difference and, most of all, the honor to get to know our hardworking students.
Children that we will never forget, that we will continue to hear news of through Mama Simba.
Knowing that more Discover Corps teams will pick up where we left off makes us proud – and a little bit jealous.
From our base in Paddington, we set out to see as much as we possibly could of London in under 48 hours. We think we did pretty darn good, see if you agree. Did we miss anything?
From our base in Paddington, we began our assault by entering Hyde Park through the Marble Arch. The park is the largest of the Royal Parks that surround of Kensington and Buckingham Palaces, which were definitely two of the items on our checklist, but we found discovered several distractions along the way.
The first being Speakers’ Corner. This corner of the park, right by the arch, has been a haven for open-air speaking, debate, and discussion for several centuries. In 1872 it was codified into law with the Parks Regulation Act that guaranteed the right to meet and speak freely in Hyde Park.
This freedom has brought out everyone from the famous, infamous, crazy, confused, intelligent, or just plain unintelligible, including some historic figures such as Karl Marx, Vladimir Lenin, and George Orwell, to take part in protesting wars, supporting suffrage, or just advocating or opposing current conditions.
After receiving our own earfuls on several subjects from the current crop of orators, we moved on toward Kensington Gardens and the palace of the same name, but there was more to see before we could get there.
As we made our way, it was impossible not to notice the Albert Memorial and the giant golden Prince sitting gazing toward the concert venue that bears his name. We don’t know about him, but we were unable to look at the Royal Albert Hall without the realization that now we know how many holes it takes to fill it.
Popping out of the park’s woods, we came to Kensington Palace. Royals have been residing here since the 17th century, including kings and queens, and now it is the residence of Princes William and Harry, along with Kate Middleton (Duchess of Cambridge) and various other Dukes, Duchesses, princes, and princesses.
Sounds crowded, but with multiple apartments divided in at least a dozen different wings and buildings they most likely have to try pretty hard to bump into each other.
By this time we had walked enough, so the time had come to board one of London’s iconic double-decker busses.
This is not the fastest way to get around the city, but it is the cheapest, and most fun.
Our goal was to catch all of the sights across town near the Tower of London, so we hopped off at St Paul’s Cathedral.
Long one of the most famous of landmarks in London, the dome is still among the highest in the world. For a long time, from 1710 to 1967, it was even the tallest structure in the city.
Right across the Thames River, the Globe Theatre stands out starkly against a background of modern buildings. Actually, the theater we saw is more modern than many of those new arrivals because this is only a replica built in 1997.
The original, or more accurately the two originals, disappeared over 350 years ago. The first stood from 1599 until it was destroyed by a fire in 1613.
The second, which is recreated in the current reproduction, was built the following year and was torn down by Puritans in 1644. It would seem as though Shakespeare’s popularity must have been on the wane at that point in time.
Well, even had the theater been left standing it might have burned down a few years later in the Great Fire of London in 1666. A monument to the fire was erected near the source of the blaze a few years later in 1671.
The huge Doric column provides some of the best views of the city anywhere, as long as one is willing to climb the 311 steps up the spiral staircase to reach the viewing platform near the top.
One building mostly spared by the fire is All Hallows-by-the-Tower, acclaimed as the oldest church in London. Established in 675, the church was built on the site of a Roman building. We know this because some remnants remain in the crypt.
Since it is right next to the Tower of London, it also became the temporary burial site for many of the beheading victims of the castle.
While the Tower does have many classic castle characteristics, it is really more of a complex of buildings than a single fortress.
Even though it was once officially Her Majesty’s Royal Palace and is still home to the crown jewels, its beginnings certainly do not bring pride to any British hearts.
It was built by William the Conqueror in 1078 after the Normans overtook England, ushering in a succession of French speaking English kings until Henry IV took the throne in 1399.
It also has a dark reputation as prison where many heads were separated from their bodies, perhaps most famously Anne Boleyn, King Henry VIII’s second wife who was beheaded in 1536. She is said to still be seen roaming around the Tower carrying her head under her arm.
All we know is that if we had seen her we would have high-tailed it across the Tower Bridge so fast that head she was toting would be spinning like a top!
And it wouldn’t be much of a run since the bridge is right there. Perhaps the most recognizable of London’s thirty-three spans across the Thames, it is often mistakenly called London Bridge. But since it is certainly not falling down, nor did it ever get moved to Arizona and rebuilt, we are certain that it is not.
Of course back in the days when the Tower was still being used to fend off invading hoards there was no bridge. It would have made it too easy to storm the castle, so the bridge is a relatively new one hundred and twenty four years old.
To take in the second round of the London landmarks on our list we took the tube to Westminster.
This allowed us to pop up from underground right in the political heart of Great Britain, directly beneath what just might be the most famous clock in the world, Big Ben.
Actually, the name was originally given to the largest of the bells in the tower, but has come to refer to the entire structure of Elizabeth Tower and is now most often associated with the giant clock. The rest of the building below houses the British Parliament but is technically still a royal residence, the Palace of Westminster.
The government has been convening here officially since 1295, so we have to think they have settled in, unlike the monarchs, who have moved on to Buckingham Palace.
On our way to see the queen, or at least her house, we passed by Westminster Abbey. Calling it all the abbey is really a misnomer. There are several buildings combined within the complex, one of which is the abbey, others include the church, sanctuary, chapter house, and cloister.
All in all these make for one of the most honored locations in London because this is the traditional site for both the coronation and burial of British monarchs. In fact, since 1066 every coronation has been here, along with sixteen royal weddings.
For nearly two hundred years those sovereigns have moved into Buckingham Palace after ascending to the throne. That meant we might have caught a glimpse of Queen Elizabeth, or one of her sons, Princes Andrew and Edward, who also live in the palace, but no such luck for us.
Guess we’d have to satisfy ourselves with a bit of a different variety of royalty, the Beatles. We hopped on another bus to Abbey Road, where an old townhouse was transformed into the Mecca of modern music when four lads from Liverpool recorded for eight years in it.
The culmination was the album they named after the street. From then on the studio itself became known as Abbey Road. It was a little underwhelming to visit, we were only able to peer through the gates, still we couldn’t help but feel privileged by our proximity to the spot where some of the greatest music ever recorded was captured.
Definitely worth including in our landmark itinerary.
The introductory warmup walk of our Cornwall walking tour was destined to rock. There was just no way around it, because it would begin and end in the town of Rock. In order to accomplish this rockin’ trek, we would need… CONTINUE READING >>
The introductory warm-up walk of our Cornwall walking tour was destined to rock. There was just no way around it, because it would begin and end in the town of Rock.
In order to accomplish this rockin’ trek, we would need to cross the River Camel from our base in Padstow.
No big deal, except for the interesting challenges faced by the ferry in negotiating the enormous tides that occur along this north facing coast on the Celtic Sea.
The variance from low to high tide is often over 20 feet. This leaves many boats in the harbor stranded high and dry at the low point, and requires a temporary disembarking spot for the ferry out on a sandbar far from the usual shore.
Once across the bay, we climbed to the high tide shoreline from our makeshift docking location and proceeded along England’s famous South West Coast Path toward the tiny village of Trebetherick.
This bit of trail would be our first of many walks along the country’s longest marked footpath. We wouldn’t come near covering the over six hundred miles of coastline that it spans along the South West Peninsula, but the sections we saw proved to be as scenic as we could have possibly imagined.
The stretch along the bay ran over and through large sand dunes that have been covered with grassy growth so that the seemingly solid ground beneath our feet was actually continually shifting.
Before long we came to the enduring little Saint Enodoc Church. This stone chapel became known as Sinking Neddy because it looks as though it has sunk into the ground. But looks can be deceiving, actually it has been battling the relentless encroachment of the dunes that have continually conspired to cover it for nearly nine centuries.
Today the grass covered dunes rise almost to the roof line, but it would be completely covered if not for a big dig back in 1864 that unearthed the building and stabilized the dunes. For three hundred years before that Neddy was nearly invisible and the only way in was to drop in through a hole in the roof.
This peculiar procedure had to be completed at least once a year for the church to remain a valid parish, so priest and parishioners would make an annual climb down a ladder to attend services.
We have always been fascinated with cemeteries, the older the better, and St. Enodoc’s was mesmerizing. Not only for the markers, some of which date back to the sixteen hundreds, but for the scenic placement overlooking the bay.
Another interesting feature of the church, which was new to us but that we would encounter many more times again on this trip, was the lychgate we passed through to enter the yard.
The word lych, meaning corpse, has survived from Old English and stems the Middle Ages when the dead were brought to the lychgate until a funeral service could be performed. The little structure kept the rain off of, and provided seating for folks keeping vigil.
As we moved off into the countryside we encountered a couple of other new gateways that enabled passage between farmer’s fields. These were both designed to permit people, but not livestock, to pass through.
The first, a kissing gate, works by allowing a person to enter inside an enclosure with a gate that can be pushed one way to enter, walked around, then pushed back to permit an exit.
The other, called a stile, is simply a few steps placed so that people but not animals can climb over a fence or wall. We immediately associated the name with the word turnstile, which was correct. The contraption we know from crowd control at stadiums originally was a form of stile used to keep sheep or other livestock penned in.
Following our curiosity down an internet rat hole led us to learn that the first use of a turnstile to control the flow of humans was in a Piggly Wiggly store in Memphis, Tennessee.
Passing along hedgerows, and through the meadows and glades, also offered us the opportunity to discover a flower that we had never seen before, the foxglove. Turns out that these beautiful purple bloom covered plants are the source of a medicine called Digoxin that is used to treat heart conditions.
The plant’s medicinal qualities have been known for centuries, with the first published description dating back to the 1785 book An Account of the Foxglove and some of its Medical Uses with Practical Remarks on Dropsy and Other Diseases by physician William Withering.
Mostly we noticed that bees love them. Guess the little bumblers will never have to worry about an irregular heartbeat.
Leaving the flora and fauna behind we returned to human habitat in the pastoral village of Pityme. The name is said to come from a tragic tale of loss at sea.
The skipper of a fishing vessel set despite despite threatening weather, resulting in all hands being lost. The grieving women of the town went to the widow of the captain and berated her for her husband’s irresponsibility. However, she was distraught as well and explained: “I have lost my husband too, so you should also pity me.”
Whether the legend contains a grain of truth or not we may never now, but it does make for a good story. Certainly better than the account of how Rock got its name. Some seen hundred years ago it was known as Blaketorre, or Black Tor, meaning black rock, which was eventually shortened to just plain Rock.
Entering the town along the beach we could see some of the namesake stones along the shoreline, even with the tide rising rapidly. Clearly, we didn’t have time to dawdle or we would be the ones asking for pity while we washed away to sea.
So as much as we enjoyed our exploration of the area around Rock, we had to roll if we were going to catch our ferry back across the bay.
For us biking is the best way to see the sights up close and at a speed where we can cover more ground than walking yet still take everything in. Our recent ride through the Normandy region of France certainly accomplished that…
However, we are not deck out in Lycra and knock out a hundred miles kind of cyclists. We are more in the stop and smell the roses (or restaurants), snap a few photos, and enjoy the view camp.
Perhaps some of this attitude stems from David’s deep-seated determination to avoid becoming a MAMIL (a term we learned in Australia that stands for Middle Aged Men In Lycra).
Through the years we have pedaled across countless countries on three continents. For us, this is the best way to see the sights up close, at ground level, and at a speed where we can cover more ground than walking yet still take everything in.
And to make the whole thing even more enjoyable, we were aided by riding bikes that included pedal assist from BionX e-bike systems.
These don’t turn the bike into a motorcycle, we still had to provide the pedal power, but it definitely helped out up the hills. That made a big difference over the course of the 162 miles we covered during the week.
The assistance comes in several levels, ranging from 1 through 4, with 1 being hardly noticeable and 4 powering us up almost any incline as if we were cruising on flat ground.
We must admit, at first we felt a little guilty passing our cycling cohorts as they huffed and puffed up a grade, but after a day or two we realized that our legs were still reasonably fresh, so we got over it.
Of course we could have turned it off, or way down, which we did sometimes, but by the end of the tour we were pretty much maxed out on 4 anytime there was a slight slope.
As we set out through the outskirts of Paris to Versailles we cautiously tested the system to get a feel for the power. Then, over the next few days our confidence grew while we made our way across the countryside checking out castles, abbeys, historic sites and the homes of legendary artists.
History came alive as we climbed up to Richard the Lionheart’s Château Gaillard built in 1196, stood where Joan of Arc was burned at the stake, and rode right through the center of the D-day invasion at Omaha Beach.
We even had the energy left to climb 396 steps up to the top of the tower at Château de La Roche Guyon, where Field Marshal Rommel commanded the Axis forces as they fought to hold off the allied invasion.
By the time we made it to the garden that inspired many of Monet’s most notable paintings, and Vincent van Gogh’s last home just outside of Paris, we were firm believers in assisted living, or should we say pedaling.
Got to say, it made riding a whole lot easier, which freed us up to take photos, look around, get lost a couple of times, and just generally lollygag and still be able to catch up to the rest of the group in time for lunch.
Which brings us to a word about lunch.
We have always felt that one of the big upsides of these biking adventures is the guilt free chowing down (even more so in France) due to the energy exerted to make it to the meals. The pedal assist didn’t change that.
As we mentioned at the outset, it doesn’t do all of the work, just makes it a bit easier. So we felt warranted to partake of all of the excellent luscious local delicacies made available by our amazing Backroads crew.
We even felt that an ice cream break was perfectly acceptable… and justified.
Another cool feature of the system that we grew to seriously appreciate was the ability to use the charging mode as a braking device on downhill stretches.
Kick it up to full blast and not only was the battery filling back up, but the brakes almost never needed pumping.
Of course regular unassisted bikes were available for the serious cyclists, who made up the majority of our group, and our helmets are off to them, but for weekend warriors such as us, a little push made our journey just that much more enjoyable.
A big thank you to Backroads Travel for providing this adventure, as always, all opinions are our own.
For those of you inspired by our experience and curious about how the latest technology can turn you into a fitter, faster cyclist, check our Dave Henly’s Reviews.
For the first two days of our Cornish explorations we made the charming town of Padstow our homebase. This little fishing port on the north coast of Cornwall was perfect for an introduction to this part of the United Kingdom. The first evening we walked around the harbor… CONTINUE READING >>
For the first two days of our Cornish explorations we made the charming town of Padstow our homebase. This little fishing port on the north coast of Cornwall was perfect for an introduction to this part of the United Kingdom.
The first evening we walked around the harbor and got a feel for the town, then enjoyed a fabulous meal at restaurateur Rick Stein’s The Seafood Restaurant.
After feasting on fresh scallops and lobster, we didn’t have far to go to settle in at the inn because our accommodations for the night were actually part of the Restaurant.
The next day found us crossing the bay to the town of Rock where we began our walking tour. With that introduction under our belts, we were ready to move on, on foot of course, to St. Ives the following morning.
The route would take us on a tightrope type of walk traversing the edge of the cliffs that jut above the Celtic Sea along Stepper Point. But before we reached the perilous part of our journey we got a little warm up by walking along River Camel leading out to the open water.
As Padstow disappeared behind us, we came to a Celtic Cross overlooking the city. This was erected as a monument to the soldiers lost in The Great War, or what became known later as World War I. The poignant tribute stands in a beautiful setting, and we learned as we traveled across Cornwall that nearly every town has one.
From the memorial it was just a short walk to the high point on the edge of the bay formed by the river, where we noticed a lookout post perched above us. As we curiously, and cautiously, worked our way up toward it the two men inside waved for us to come on in.
They were happy to have the company it seemed, but they were also performing a part of their duties as volunteer members of the National Coastwatch Institution. Besides watching for trouble at sea, the patrollers take a description of every hiker that passes by to aid in search and rescue should it become necessary.
The crew of NCI Stepper Point Lookout Station was glad to explain their mission of watching over the entrance to the Camel estuary and the port of Padstow and, perhaps most importantly, keeping an eye on the notorious Doom Bar. This sandbar that blocks the entrance at low tide has caused over six hundred vessels to wreck or run aground so a close watch is of primary importance.
Local legend has it that the Doom Bar was created as the dying curse of the Mermaid of Padstow. Some knucklehead supposedly shot her when she refused to marry him, so she cursed the harbor with a “bar of doom.”
No matter the folklore, navigation has been tricky in these parts for quite a while, as evidenced by the stone tower near the coast guard station. Known simply as the Daymark, this navigation tower was built centuries ago to help guide ships around this treacherous point. It was originally lime-washed white to make it visible out to sea, but most of that has long since faded away.
From the tower we excitedly proceeded along the South West Coast Path, England’s longest and perhaps most scenic long distance trail. Onward to the cliffs!
The shoreline dropped off nearly straight down about one hundred feet, making it a little disturbing to get too close to the edge. However, there were a couple of places where we just couldn’t resist going in for a closer look.
The first of these was Pepper Hole. This collapsed sea cave has become a small arch, but it takes a bit of daring to get a good look at it. Coping a careful squat allowed for a peek at the ocean through the hole.
Ambling along a little farther we exchanged intrigued glances with several sheep and learned to climb over the old stone fences that keep them in.
Most of the time we kept a healthy distance between us and the sheer drop off that ran along the coast, but before long we spotted another formation that had us headed for the edge once again.
The rock pinnacles at Gunver Head insisted on closer inspection, so we inched our way over to the precipice for some cautious consideration of the formation.
These cliffs are made of Devonian slate, a sedimentary rock which is extremely brittle and breaks along its layers leaving large flat surfaces.
This characteristic is why this coastline is so craggy and, in the case at Gunver, the crashing surf has created sharp peaks that stand like sentries along the shore.
While we gawked the wind began to kick up, making our precarious perch feel all the more dicey. Before being blown over, we decided to get moving toward the town of Trevone.
When we reached the seaside village, we were wind-blown and ready to take a little break. Spotting an ad for tea at a tiny beachside café, we knew that the time was right, even if it wasn’t officially teatime.
In Cornwall the classic British afternoon ritual is called cream tea, because clotted cream is a star of the show. This butter-like whipped cream is liberally laid out on scones that are lighter than most, in fact they reminded us of good ole southern biscuits.
It is proper to plop a good dollop of strawberry jam down on top of that delicious combination, then wash the whole thing down with hot tea. While we partook the rain did not materialize, so we headed back out and while we walked along the cliffs relented.
The steep coastline gave way to a sandy beach at Harlyn Bay while the sky once again took on an ominous tone. The threatening skies didn’t discourage the handful of surfers and small crowd of beachcombers though, still we made the call to proceed on to our final destination by bus.
When we jumped off at our stop in Constantine Bay, the sky opened up and chased us inside the Treglos Hotel for our second tea of the afternoon.
We inquired as to the lack of etiquette involved with partaking in a double feature when it comes to taking tea, and were assured that it was allowed as long as one was on holiday.
Still, we were fairly certain that this is not what they mean when they say tea for two.
We couldn’t very well have a walking tour without walking, so we set out on foot from our base of explorations in Carbis Bay toward the quaint English seaside resort town of St. Ives. CONTINUE READING >>
We couldn’t very well have a walking tour without walking, so we set out on foot from our base of explorations in Carbis Bay toward the quaint English seaside resort town of St. Ives.
The name comes from St Ia’s cove, and the legend that is so intertwined with this region in Cornwall.
Many of the historic fourth and fifth century Cornish saints came from Ireland, and the story is that Ia was planning to join some of them on that voyage across the sea, but was left behind. As she prayed for a way to make the journey, a leaf floating up to shore and as she watched it began to grow bigger and bigger. Finally she climbed aboard the leaf and floated to this cove.
As we approached the city, we certainly saw that she had picked an ideal spot. The village is nestled around the little bay with several golden beaches that have led it to be twice named Best UK Seaside Town by the British Travel Awards.
Entering on the high road, for a better view, we came to the first of many encounters we would have with the works of Barbara Hepworth. Her bronze sculpture, Epidauros II, adorns the Malakoff overlooking the harbor, so we stopped for a look at both the art and the panorama.
Heading down to the waterfront, we made the church dedicated to St. Ia our first stop. The church was built during the reign of King Henry V from 1410 and 1434 as a chapel of ease, so parishioners would not have to travel several miles to Lelant for services.
It’s eighty-foot high tower served as a landmark for our finding our way around, and inside we found another Barbara Hepworth sculpture, her 1954 Madonna and Child, Bianco del Mare. The stark statue was her dedication to her son Paul who was killed while flying with the Royal Air Force in 1953.
Leaving Saint Ia’s we made a loop around the town, beginning and ending at the waterfront. Among the myriad of shops, inns, and restaurants along the water, The Sloop Inn stood out. Dating back to 1312, this classic fisherman’s pub lays claim to being one of the oldest inns in Cornwall.
From there we walked along the coast of what the locals refer to as The Island, but it is really a peninsula. The point is crowned by the St Nicholas Chapel, which is thought to predate St. Ia’s, but no records survive giving the history of the old stone church. What is known is that it was often used to keep watch for smugglers and for storage by the War Office over the.
Our circular route took us onward to Porthmeor Beach along the way to the Tate Gallery. As a hub for artists form more than a century, St Ives seemed the perfect location for second of the Tate’s regional galleries. Opening in 1993, now nearly half a million people visit each year.
For us, the building, built on the site of an old gasworks, was nearly as interesting as the artwork within it. And the view out over the beach back toward the chapel was even better.
A few blocks through the narrow streets we stopped off for one more encounter with Barbara Hepworth’s work at her Museum and Sculpture Garden.
The pioneer in modern sculpture lived and worked here from 1949 until she passed away in 1975 and it was always her wish that it would become a museum.
Barbara Hepworth’s workshop.
The small house and garden is managed by the Tate, but has been left very much as it was during her life. She chose most of the positions for the artwork displays and her workshop remains basically untouched.
By the time we completed our leisurely stroll through the grounds we had put a good ten or twelve miles on our feet for the day, so after an ice cream back at the waterfront we opted to take the train back to Cardis Bay.
Cheating? Maybe, but we easily talked ourselves out of that foolish notion.
We felt like we were simply keeping the self in our self-guided tour.
Whether you’re fully retired or simply making the most of your holiday time, we’ll help you experience New Zealand in a way that feels effortless and enriching… CONTINUE READING >>
At Amazing New Zealand Itineraries, we specialise in creating personalised holidays for mature international travellers—including those who are retired or approaching retirement—who want to explore New Zealand in comfort, at their own pace, and without the hassle of planning it all themselves.
Whether you’re celebrating a milestone, ticking off a long-held bucket-list adventure, or simply seeking a relaxing escape, we’ll craft a trip that reflects your interests, travel style, and desired level of activity. From coastal charm and alpine beauty to cultural gems and wildlife encounters, we make New Zealand easy and unforgettable.
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Whether you’re fully retired or simply making the most of your holiday time, we’ll help you experience New Zealand in a way that feels effortless and enriching.