One of the most beautiful spots in Newfoundland is Bay of Islands and Cox’s Cove.
We met Darren Park, who runs Four Seasons Tours, for a spin around the bay in his traditional dory.
Darren knows his home cove like the back of his hand and immediately took us to a nesting sight with two baby eagles. Two adult birds were standing guard and watching the water.
Then Darren gave us a show. He tossed a fish out for the birds, but before they could swoop down a seagull snatched it. The chase was on!
Mama eagle was not about to allow some gull to steal her baby’s food, so she honed in on the gull like a fighter jet.
After a brief attempt to escape, the gull made the smart choice of dropping the fish. Mama picked it up and flew right over us to the nest.
From there we made our way to a few of Darren’s favorite fishing spots to try our hand at jigging a cod.
He made it look simple, just drop the line all the way to the bottom, (nearly three hundred feet!) then reel it up a couple turns and give it a few good tugs. Next thing we knew he had a big ole cod on the line.
WATCH: Eagles, cod jigging, wild land-and-seascapes and a visit to Darren’s fish cabin – all in a traditional Newfoundland dory!
Needless to say, it took us a bit longer to hook one, but we did get the hang of it and before long everyone had caught a good sized fish.
Well, this way we were ready for it when the time came.
After our lip smacking with the fish we were surprised by the salty taste left behind. We had to keep reminding ourselves that this was the ocean, because the bay looked for all the world like a freshwater lake up in the North Woods.
Our first glimpse of Newfoundland! Entering the harbor at Port aux Basques.
We didn’t really know what to expect of Newfoundland even as we were approaching the island on the ferry from Nova Scotia.
We knew about the crazy half-hour-later time zone, and had heard tell of whales, icebergs, and Vikings, but had no solid idea what day-to-day life or the landscape might be like.
Most everyone we talked to on the ship was heading straight from the dock to Gros Morne National Park, Newfoundland’s best known attraction.
The fine folks at the province’s Go Western Newfoundland had other plans for us though, and boy are we glad they did. They had several stops before the famous park on the itinerary they set up for us.
Had we blazed up the highway we would have missed some things that ended up being among the highlights of our visit, beginning with the town of Port aux Basques where we came ashore.
Once again that good ole GypsyNester dumb-luck played in our favor, as Canada Day celebrations had been postponed for a night due to weather, and were just kicking off as we entered the town.
A crowd was gathering as a band set up in Scott’s Cove Park by the harbor, and vendors had booths with crafts and treats.
We ambled about for a few minutes, getting introduced to Newfoundland, then walked up the hill for dinner at the St. Christopher’s Hotel. We were greeted like old friends by Lloyd Whitehorn at the front desk. Lloyd also gives tours of the area, so he was the perfect guy to give us a few pointers.
We had heard about fish and brewis before arriving on the island, and understood that this was a must-have meal if we were to get the full Newfoundland experience.
Salt cod and hardtack are soaked, then boiled, chopped up, and combined for a plate of stick-to-your-ribs seafaring rations. The menu listed Fisherman’s Brewis, but we figured it must be the same thing.
But first we had to try the true delicacy of the North Atlantic, cod tongues. Fried tidbits straight from the fish’s mouth, served with scrunchions, deep fried pork fat bits. The tongues just tasted like cod, with a very slight gelled consistency.
And everything’s good with a little pig fat on it. Scrunchions were also used to dress up the fisherman’s brewis.
Might not sound like gourmet dining, but it sure hit the spot after our crossing. Later in our trip we discovered that St. Christopher’s kept the fish and bread in bigger pieces than the more traditional versions.
It seems that can be the difference between calling it fish and brewis, or fisherman’s brewis. After dinner we watched the Canada Day fireworks over the bay, then drifted off dreaming of what awaited us on this intriguing island at the edge of North America.
Sunrise found us learning much more about the island over breakfast of cod cakes and eggs with Stella Pittman, manager of St. Christopher’s.
She explained how so many folks miss the incredible beauty of the southwest portion of Newfoundland by driving through without stopping.
Stella, and several others, told us about visitors who thought the island was small enough to see the whole thing in three or four days.
Considering it is over six hundred miles from top-to-bottom, and end-to-end, that would mean non-stop driving. We sure are glad we booked the extra time to explore a little more in depth.
A Pirate’s Life for Me
On our way north we stopped off at Pirate’s Haven, in the tiny west coast town of Robinsons, where Paul and Ruth Gale took us on the ATV ride of our lives.
They have set up a park with a campground, chalets, and a restaurant on a huge plot of land perched atop the cliffs overlooking the Gulf of St. Lawrence.
We rode the bikes, as they called the four-wheelers, to the edge for a view beyond compare.
The view from the hilltop chalets at Pirate’s Haven.
Their park is an amazing project that they have taken on singled-handedly over the past ten years, and it rivals any public lands we’ve seen for natural beauty.
Riding back for a bite at their restaurant we crossed the Robinsons River on a trestle from the old Newfoundland Railway that went out of service in 1988.
The Gales helped save the crumbling bridge and now it has new life for hikers, bikers, skiers, and snowmobilers as part of T’Railway Provincial Park multi use trail that spans the entire island.
WATCH: A rip-roarin’ ATV ride in beautiful Newfoundland!
Our next stop was Bay of Islands and Cox’s Cove. We met Darren Park, who runs Four Seasons Tours, for a spin around the bay in his traditional dory.
Darren knows his home cove like the back of his hand and immediately took us to a nesting sight with two baby eagles. Two adult birds were standing guard and watching the water.
Then Darren gave us a show. He tossed a fish out for the birds, but before they could swoop down a seagull snatched it. The chase was on!
Mama eagle was not about to allow some gull to steal her baby’s food, so she honed in on the gull like a fighter jet. After a brief attempt to escape, the gull made the smart choice of dropping the fish. Mama picked it up and flew right over us to the nest.
From there we made our way to a few of Darren’s favorite fishing spots to try our hand at jigging a cod.
He made it look simple, just drop the line all the way to the bottom, (nearly three hundred feet!) then reel it up a couple turns and give it a few good tugs. Next thing we knew he had a big ole cod on the line.
WATCH: Eagles, cod jigging, wild land-and-seascapes and a visit to Darren’s fish cabin – all in a traditional Newfoundland dory!
Needless to say, it took us a bit longer to hook one, but we did get the hang of it and before long everyone had caught a good sized fish. We had heard about kissing the cod, and for some reason Veronica thought it was a great idea, so we puckered up and smooched our catches right on the lips.
After our lip smacking with the fish we were surprised by the salty taste left behind. We had to keep reminding ourselves that this was the ocean, because the bay looked for all the world like a freshwater lake up in the North Woods. At least until we started seeing jellyfish.
Once we were all successful cod fishermen it was time for a little sustenance, shellfish boiled in sea water.
We beached the boat right in front of Darren’s fishing cabin and he grabbed a bucket of mussels and scooped some water from the bay into it.
The mussels came from right there. At low tide he just walks along the shore and picks them up. With some fresh snow crab tossed in, and a few minutes on the stove, we were ready for a feast.
In Cox’s Cove we learned about the real Newfoundland. From people like Darren, who has lived there all of his life, and Joan Oxford of True North Tours, who invited us over to her house where we discussed all things Newfoundland…
Music, history, food, and traditions all went round the table. It seemed like no one we met was a stranger. Easy conversations were struck up with almost everybody. We found a great example of what to expect on the rest of our journey across Newfoundland.
Beautiful scenery, unbelievable fresh seafood, gorgeous water, and most of all, fantastic people.
On our way north from Port aux Basques, we stopped off at Pirate’s Haven, in the tiny west coast town of Robinsons, where Paul and Ruth Gale took us on the ATV ride of our lives… CONTINUE READING >>
On our way north from Port aux Basques, we stopped off at Pirate’s Haven, in the tiny west coast town of Robinsons, where Paul and Ruth Gale took us on the ATV ride of our lives.
They have set up a park with a campground, chalets, and a restaurant on a huge plot of land perched atop the cliffs overlooking the Gulf of St. Lawrence.
We rode the bikes, as they called the four-wheelers, to the edge for a view beyond compare.
WATCH: A rip-roarin’ ATV ride in beautiful Newfoundland!
Looking over the cliffs to the beach far, far below.
The view from the hilltop chalets at Pirate’s Haven.
Their park is an amazing project that they have taken on singled-handedly over the past ten years, and it rivals any public lands we’ve seen for natural beauty.
Riding back for a bite at their restaurant we crossed the Robinsons River on a trestle from the old Newfoundland Railway that went out of service in1988.
The Gales helped save the crumbling bridge and now it has new life for hikers, bikers, skiers, and snowmobilers as part of T’Railway Provincial Park multi use trail that spans the entire island.
Come along with us as we explore the beautiful sea cliffs of St. George’s Bay!… Enlarge Video >>
Come along with us as we explore the beautiful sea cliffs of St. George’s Bay! Thanks to Paul and Ruth at Pirate’s Haven for putting up with our shenanigans and trusting us with your ATVs!
I know, I know, I risk sounding like a get-off-my-lawn old guy, but seriously, the network news just ain’t what it used to be. In fact, a good bit of it isn’t even what I would call news.
I’m not talking about the feel good human interest pieces, those have always been a part of journalism, but when did viral videos become news? It seems that anytime I have a chance to tune into the news, I get treated to the latest YouTube sensation. Since when did cute cats, talking babies and folks getting hit in the nuts become fare that rivals the important events of the day?
I know, I know, I risk sounding like a get-off-my-lawn old guy, but seriously, the network news just ain’t what it used to be. In fact, a good bit of it isn’t even what I would call news.
I’m not talking about the feel good human interest pieces, those have always been a part of journalism, but when did viral videos become news?
It seems that anytime I have a chance to tune into the news, I get treated to the latest YouTube sensation. Since when did cute cats, talking babies and folks getting hit in the nuts become fare that rivals the important events of the day?
Add that to the celebrity gossip and not so subtle plugs for upcoming shows that have crept into the half hour time slot and sadly, our once venerated evening news has become a condensed version of a morning show. What’s next, “Here’s Tom Brokaw with a cooking segment?”
The other night, between ads for various prescriptions that all had a decent chance of killing me as a side effect, I learned that Pat and Vanna were “hammered” (yes, Brian Williams said hammered) while they taped some Wheel of Fortune episodes decades ago.
Earth shattering scoop, especially since it had already been all over the Internet that day. Try real hard to imagine Walter Cronkite reporting on tipsy game show hosts… go ahead, try.
“Ladies and gentlemen, Wink Smiley was found to be somewhat inebriated at the Desilu Studios last evening while filming What’s My Deal. And that’s the way it is…” Personally, I just can’t see him squeezing that in between the moon landing and Vietnam War news.
I understand that the networks are in a bind these days, Cronkite only had two televised competitors, unlike the dozens of cable news outlets and websites streaming into our homes today.
This has undoubtedly changed the business by forcing extreme competition, unfortunately not for quality of content but for advertising dollars.
Until the 1990s the networks didn’t expect their news divisions to show a profit. To avoid influence from sponsors news was treated as “off the books.”
It was considered part of the public service requirements to the FCC and a way to build public trust. Not anymore, now the news is seen as a revenue generator and is treated just like any other entertainment programming. It’s all about ratings.
A couple of years ago our oldest daughter left her job at a major network to go to work for a company on the internet side of the news. Her old dad was a tad set back by this move until she explained how everybody has already seen every story by the time it reaches the evening news. She decided, correctly I think, that the future of real broadcast journalism, as opposed to “infotainment,” is online.
What is the best way to for network news to compete with the Internet? Trying to become more like the Internet? It seems to me that the networks would have a much better shot at attracting, and keeping, an audience if they took the opposite tack and tried to be less like the Internet.
Use the airtime to go in depth and do some real analysis of the stories we already heard earlier in the day, with live interviews featuring real newsmakers, footage from around the globe, things websites would have a hard time duplicating. The networks do some of this now, but it is generally over within the first ten minutes of the broadcast. Then the fluff begins.
Is it just me, or does everybody lose interest when the video for the guy on the bike getting tackled by a wildebeest shows up on the screen? Once again, close your eyes and imagine Walter Cronkite reporting on that.
Not that they want my advice, but it seems to me that the network news should strive to be above all of this nonsense. We already have YouTube for those talking dog diversions. Stick to the news!
Your Turn: Do you think the evening news has changed for the better or worse? What is your primary news source? Internet? TV? Newspaper? Have I turned into a get-off-my-lawn old guy?Leave us a comment!
Not only did our ship stay for two full days in the legendary city, but we docked in an absolutely unbelievable location.
The incredible new Shanghai International Cruise Terminal could not be more in… CONTINUE READING >>
We got Shanghai-ed – and loved it. Not only did our ship stay for two full days in the legendary city, but we docked in an absolutely unbelievable location.
The incredible new Shanghai International Cruise Terminal could not be more in the center of everything.
The view of Shanghai from the deck of the ms Volendam.
Our berth on The Huangpu River was directly across from the Pudong district, which is home to the iconic Pearl of The Orient Tower, as well as a couple of the world’s tallest buildings.
These have all sprung up in the past twenty years or so with another, The Shanghai Tower, set to become the second highest building on the planet.
When completed next year the tower will be one of only four man-made structures to stand over two thousand feet high.
Over on our side of the river we were a five minute walk from The Bund, which has become the chosen spot for locals and tourists alike to congregate along the riverside.
Originally a British settlement, The Bund became the economic center of Shanghai as the city grew from the nineteenth into the twentieth century.
Banks, trading houses, and consulates lined the streets giving the area a distinctly European feel. After the 1949 revolution much of this activity stopped, but in the last few years the buildings have returned to their previous glory and now house luxury hotels and several of China’s biggest banks.
The Bund from the Volendam at night.
While we were most appreciative of our incredible docking position, we also had been pretty lucky. With 1,400 passengers and at about 70,000 tons, Holland America’s ms Volendam is one of the largest ships able to make it up The Huangpu to this spot, and that’s only if she comes in and out at low tide.
We made it under the forty-eight meter high Yangpu Bridge with only about two meters to spare. It looked for all the world like the stack was going to clip the underside of the span as we headed back out to sea!
The Yangpu Bridge is quite a marvel at over five miles long, but the clearance serves as a blockade to many of today’s massive cruise ships. All larger vessels must use the port at the Wusong International Cruise Ship Terminal, about twenty miles out of town on The Yangtze River, since there is no way that they can get under the bridge.
Downtown Shanghai from the Volendam at night.
Having our ship right in the heart of Shanghai made it so much more convenient to explore the city sometimes called “Paris of the East,” especially at night. It was like staying in a downtown hotel where we could come and go at our leisure.
On an evening stroll along The Bund, with the neon skyscrapers on one side of the river and the classic architecture on the other, we were completely captivated by the city.
Locals are too, as the area was crowded with folks enjoying the evening. The area is also popular with red-clad brides-to-be excitedly getting their wedding photos taken.
Since 1976 one of Hong Kong’s top tourist attractions has been Jumbo Kingdom, a floating restaurant.
Wait, floating? Yes, it is moored in the middle of Aberdeen Harbour. Imagine our excitement when we learned that we could combine two of our favorite things…CONTINUE READING >>
Since 1976 one of Hong Kong‘s top tourist attractions has been Jumbo Kingdom, a floating restaurant.
Wait, floating? Yes, it is moored in the middle of Aberdeen Harbour. Imagine our excitement when we learned that we could combine two of our favorite things, boats and food.
We did a little investigating and found that from our hotel it was just a short walk, a subway ride, a bus ride, another short walk, and then a free shuttle boat out to the kingdom. Piece of cake.
And it was, right up to the finding the free ferry part. When got off the bus at the Aberdeen Promenade that runs along the harbor we could see the restaurant floating off in the distance.
It looked like a Chinese imperial palace floating in the water, so we headed in that direction. Turns out we took a wrong turn.
After walking a half mile or so, the promenade ended and things got a little dodgy.
First we passed a sidewalk hair cutting session, strange but not enough to deter us.
Then the path became a nothing more than a combination of boards, rocks and mud that ended up going into some fishing shacks. Okay, time to admit we were going the wrong way.
When we made it back to the promenade we asked, as best we could, and were directed to some docks on the other side of the bus stop.
We were finally on the right track and, looking on the GypsyNester bright side, we had a nice walk beside the water.
We arrived at the pier marked Jumbo Kingdom, climbed aboard the little vessel waiting there, and the driver asked for forty Hong Kong Dollars.
Hmmm, thought it was supposed to be a free shuttle. Oh well, we handed over the dough, which came to about five bucks, and waited to set sail.
Just as another couple was about to board, and be relieved of a few dollars, the real, free shuttle appeared and our dude shoved off in a hurry.
As it hit us that we’d been scammed, we couldn’t decided if we should be upset, or admire the water taxi guy for his ingenuity at profiting off the tourists.
Since he didn’t stick us for too much, we settled for being a little of both.
We chalked it up as our contribution to what we call the “stupid tax” and went on with our day. We’ve paid much higher fees for being dumb than five dollars.
Pulling up along the front entry way / deck, we got the full impact of the over the top ornamentation.
It’s so impressive that a Queen (as in Elizabeth II), a Duke (as in John Wayne), a Maverick (as in Tom Cruise), and over thirty million other people have all felt the need to see it.
By most all accounts that we had read, they didn’t come for the food.
Jumbo Kingdom’s reputation for fine dining is somewhat less that stellar but, according to a few articles we found, they are working hard to improve it.
No need to improve on the decor though, and the inside is every bit as intense as the outside.
The lack of any five star rating certainly didn’t matter too much to us, it was the middle of the afternoon so we just came for tea and dim sum.
Plus we were on a boat, and eating, in perhaps the gaudiest restaurant on the planet, really, it’s GypsyNester heaven.
To our somewhat less than expert palets the dim sum seemed fine.
The sticky rice in lotus leaf was both sticky and wrapped, the steamed buns were steamy, and the shrimp dumplings had whole shrimp hiding inside.
None of them were the best we’d ever had, but certainly not bad. And with all the tea we could drink, the bill wasn’t bad either, just over twenty bucks.
Had we come for dinner we’d have had a choice between several options because The Jumbo Kingdom actually consists of several venues; The Jumbo Floating Restaurant, The Topdeck which is not surprisingly on the top deck of Jumbo and serves western cuisine, Dragon Court fine Cantonese dining on the first deck, and Tai Pak Floating Restaurant moored alongside.
It might have been nice to see the kingdom in all its glory lit up after dark, but we felt better trying to find our way to and from it in the daylight.
So with the sun sinking low, we made our move toward the boats out on the front deck.
It was much easier to find the free shuttle boat from this side, except it dropped us at a different pier… so finding the bus, that was another story.
