We considered ourselves to be among the fortunate as we headed to lounge in the heated water that springs forth from the mountain at the Baldi Hot Springs Resort… CONTINUE READING >>
Big thanks to Viator for providing this wonderful adventure! As always, all opinions are our own.
The east side of Volcán Arenal has been spared the rivers of molten rock and explosions that the west side has, earning the name La Fortuna, The Fortunate.
We considered ourselves to be among the fortunate, as we headed that way to lounge in the heated water that springs forth from the mountain at the Baldi Hot Springs Resort.
Our visions of a hot pond in the middle of the rainforest was blown out of the water as soon as we arrived.
Baldi has twenty-five separate spring-fed pools, each getting warmer as they rise up the mountain/ volcanoside.
Each pool has a unique personality with waterfalls, bridges and even full-service bars right in the naturally-heated water.
There are waterslides for kids and thrill seekers, and a full service spa for the more sublime, but we were more than content to simply soak our cares away.
Need pampering stat? Baldi has a helipad!The entrance to the Aqua Spa.
After several tranquil hours making our way down from one pool to the next, we enjoyed a spread of Italian and local dishes at the resort’s buffet at the base of Arenal.
Perhaps the most relaxed dinner we’ve ever enjoyed!
Sandwiched between our explorations of Newfoundland, Prince Edward Island, and Halifax we discovered an often overlooked, and historically important, stretch of Atlantic Canada.
Travel with us through New Brunswick and Nova Scotia and discover The Bay of Fundy, with the highest tides in the world, learn how folks got around before cars, overdose on blueberries, and find out how the Scots made it to the New World… CONTINUE READING >>
Thanks to Road Scholar for providing this lifelong learning adventure through the Canadian Maritimes! As always, all opinions are our own.
The area around the Isthmus of Chignecto, which connects New Brunswick with Nova Scotia, is instrumental in the history of North America and certainly deserved a closer look.
Battle(s) Royale
The strategic strip provided a land route for early French colonials, joining Louisbourg to Quebec, making it a center point of battles for control over eastern Canada between British and French forces.
After King George’s War ended in 1748 with no resolution to the balance of power in North America, France began building Fort Beauséjour in what is now New Brunswick to protect their holdings.
Fort Beauséjour
By 1755, the two powers were back at it and the British conquered the fort, effectively cutting New France in half. After renaming it Fort Cumberland, they began deporting all of the French-speaking settlers of the area in the first expulsion of the Acadians.
But that was only the beginning of what came to be known as the French and Indian War.
The perennial enemies fought across vast swaths of the continent, as well as in Europe, for nearly ten years.
Eventually England and her colonies prevailed, becoming the dominant power in North America. In the process, a young Major George Washington established himself as a leader and the rest, as they say, is history.
Tiding Things Over
The isthmus forms the north shore of The Bay of Fundy, so after our history lesson we made a stop to check out the highest tides in the world.
It is common for a high tide at Fundy to rise an incredible forty-five feet or more.
The long, funnel-like shape of the bay opening to the Atlantic creates the giant tidal fluctuations. In a span of just minutes we watched the water rise several feet — it was like watching a bathtub fill up.
In the nearby town of Sackville, we passed by the last octagonal house in New Brunswick on our way to the Campbell Carriage Factory.
Dating back to 1855, the site represents one of last surviving pre-industrial businesses in Canada. The main factory building, which became a museum in 2003, is typical of a small nineteenth century shop.
The brief tour gave us a start-to-finish look at the construction of horse-drawn carriages and sleighs.
Everything from the making of the wheels to the final paint job was done on site. By branching out into farm equipment, and even caskets, the factory managed to survive the advent of the automobile and continued business until 1949.
Crossing the isthmus out of New Brunswick, we made our way into Nova Scotia for a look at, and hopefully a sample of, some of the area’s produce.
First up, berries! At Blueberry Acres we found ourselves in the middle of two hundred acres of high bush blueberries, and got an introduction to the enterprise of commercial berries.
While checking out the rows of bushes we about jumped out of our skins when a canon fired in the middle of the field.
We weren’t the only ones jumping, a good sized flock of birds sprung up as well. After a few more rounds went off, we had to ask what was up with the bombardment.
The artillery was not the French and English taking up arms against each other again (whew!), but part of a never-ending battle to keep birds from eating all the profits.
Other weapons include piping in predatory bird sounds (a walk through the bushes sounds like a jungle excursion!) and statues of swooping eagles placed in strategic locations.
Between the Bushes Restaurant is also a part of the complex, situated smack in the middle of the farm, and blueberries are incorporated into many dishes.
We started off with pure, sweet blueberry juice, and then moved on to their signature blueberry barbeque chicken.
Somehow, even with a blueberry dessert, we felt not an inkling of berry overload.
We went from fruit of the bush to fruit of the vine at the Gaspereau Vineyards. Eight different grape varietals grow on thirty-five acres of hillside that provides the perfect sun and drainage for ideal growing.
After tasting a couple of their offerings, we agreed that ideal growing makes ideal wine.
For a change of pace, and something quintessentially Canadian, we had to try their maple wine. Interesting, unique, but… maybe it would go better with a pancake supper.
Enter the Scots!
Returning to our historic explorations, we stopped in Pictou to see the Hector Heritage Quay.
Nova Scotia means New Scotland in Latin, and Hector is famous for being the ship that brought the first significant group of Scottish settlers in 1773.
The quay, or dock, commemorates the event with a museum that chronicles the Scots fleeing the Highland Clearances in Scotland and making the arduous journey across the Atlantic to start new lives.
A perfect replica of the ship, made from the original blueprints, highlights the exhibit.
We started with a look through the displays about the ship and stalwart settlers that made the crossing.
Passenger lists and scores of tartans representing the clans of the families line the walls of the museum, allowing many Nova Scotians to trace their roots.
We found the plaid for the Stewart clan, Veronica’s maiden name, so perhaps a relative was on board?
After a brief film, we went aboard The Hector and got a small sample of just how crowded two hundred people would be on a one hundred foot ship.
In the holds there was only room for one bunk per family, so everyone had to take turns sleeping. Because of a horrific storm, the trip that should have lasted six or seven weeks ended up taking eleven, and eighteen passengers died at sea.
Love this sign! A bit catty for a historical marker, eh?
Unlike those brave souls centuries ago, we could hop off whenever we wanted, so we disembarked for a walk around the town.
First we checked out the crafts fair at New Caledonian Curling Club, which happens to be the third oldest curling club in Canada.
Then we followed signs marking the historic buildings around town.
Our favorite had to be the old post office, built in 1895, which claims to be “the only building in the world with a window in it’s (sic) chimney.”
Perhaps they wrote that claim before the days of Google, because a quick search revealed that they have some competition for the title.
The main building, constructed in 1838, was first used as a tannery.
Its woodworking and machinery rooms showcase the tools and worktables that were necessary to create each component of the Campbell’s carriages.
When it was initially decided to renovate the dilapidated building for the museum, over six thousand artifacts were discovered on the grounds alone.
Since the museum’s opening many carriages have been donated by private citizens.
These are now creatively displayed without taking away the feel of the factory that existed before.
Carriage accoutrementsWheelwright’s table
We found the process of creating the wheels to be fascinating, and our guide cheerfully walked us through the steps of manufacturing wooden hubs, spokes and rims.
The most common type of sleigh built by the Campbell were called pungs.
The name comes from the Algonquin-speaking native people (deriving from tom-pung from tobaggan), and the original pungs were simply made by affixing a box atop a sled. They evolved over time to a sleigh with a sleeker design.
Caskets were also built on site and we marveled at the intricate designs of the accoutrements used in their making.
In the blacksmith shop, our guide used the still-functioning forge to demonstrate how tools and metalwork were created.
By branching out into farm equipment, furniture and caskets, the factory managed to survive the advent of the automobile and continued business until 1949.
We LOVED that the museum left graffiti on the wall from the olden days!
The museum was designated in 2006 as a Historic Place on the Canadian Register.
“Weird” birds & giant tortoises, playful sea lions & active volcanoes – here are the top 5, not to miss, incredible experiences in the Galapagos Islands!… CONTINUE READING >>
Commune with the (Weird) Birds
The Blue-footed Booby
A trip to The Galapagos Islands is guaranteed to make a birder out of anyone. The sheer numbers, and just plain strange features that isolation has brought upon these fabulous creatures would have been enough for us. Couple this with fact that we spent more effort backing away from them than trying to spot them – these birds have absolutely zero fear of humans – and we were instantly hooked! More on the Birds of the Galapagos…
WATCH: It’s not enough to see the birds of The Galapagos – you have to hear them, too! See them with their babies!
Romp with Giant Tortoises (and see them breed!)
In this strange land of strange animals, none is more iconic than the Galapagos Giant Tortoise, known as Galápagos in Spanish. The place is literally named after them.
Growing to over six feet long and eight hundred pounds, these are the biggest tortoises on the planet and one of the largest reptiles. No Galapagos visit would be complete without seeing some of these mammoth Testudines. We weren’t willing to take a chance on seeing one in the wild and risk missing a sighting, so we went right to the source, Isabela Island and the Tortoise Breeding Center of Isabela. More on the Giant Tortoises and the Breeding Center…
Cavort with Sea Lions
Of all of the fabulous animals in The Galapagos Islands, the one that made it hardest to obey the strict always-stay-six-feet-away-from-the-animals rule were the sea lions. Sea lions, or lobos del mar (wolves of the sea) as they are called in Ecuador, have great personalities, are cute, cuddly looking and have no fear of humans (even underwater!) More Sea Lions of The Galapagos…
WATCH: A mama sea lion is reunited with her baby after a bit of a scare!
Explore the Volcanic Landscape (and look down into a live volcano!)
There is another side to this archipelago. A side that may appeal to a geologist more than an ornithologist or herpetologist, because the Galapagos are a classic example of a geologic hot spot. Discover wild formations, overnight in a caldron (in a boat!), check out lava bombs, appreciate the artistry of a brand-new lava floe and hike up an active volcano – then gaze down into it! More on these Islands of Fire…
Half the Fun is Underwater
Half the awe and fun of The Galapagos Islands is underwater. The sea creatures are just as unafraid of humans as their counterparts on land. You will get up close. It’s a good idea to learn to swim backwards before you go! More Underwater Galapagos…
WATCH: Imagine Veronica’s surprise when this sea lion wanted to play with her!
Of all of the fabulous animals in The Galapagos Islands, the one that made it hardest to obey the strict always-stay-six-feet-away-from-the-animals rule… See more of our favorite things in the Galapagos! >>
Of all of the fabulous animals in The Galapagos Islands, the one that made it hardest to obey the strict always-stay-six-feet-away-from-the-animals rule… See more of our favorite things in the Galapagos! >>
As China grew, so did Shanghai. Now the most populated city in the most populated country in the world is also the world’s biggest city.
Of course this can be debated depending on the rules for counting. Shanghai has the most people, twenty-four million of them, living within its official limits. There are other larger urban areas, but they involve a great many people living outside the city proper.
But after our cutting-edge romp we were ready to find a connection to the past. It wasn’t hard, just a few blocks away from the waterfront the Old City of Shanghai hides in the shadows of the modern skyscrapers.
This was the city that was safely ensconced within ancient protective walls until about one hundred years ago.
At that time, a new governor came in and decided to open things up as a part of the new Republic of China.
Still, a good bit of the classic old architecture remains and we spent more than our share of time gawking up at the ornate rooftops.
Shanghai has always been a very international city, but as tourists discovered it over the last few decades the old city has lost a bit of its authenticity.
The bulk of the shops and restaurants no longer cater to a local clientele.
Even with the new additions, things were still wildly foreign to our eyes.
So when we came upon a bustling place that seemed to be bucking the catering-to-tourists trend, the Nanxiang Steamed Bun Restaurant, we knew immediately where lunch was happening.
We were pretty taken aback by the scene when we stepped inside. Crowded, loud, and in-comprehensible to us, we had to get out of the way to observe and get our bearings for a few minutes.
While we watched things began to make some sense. Lines snaked past several counters where patrons picked out their dishes. Servers, with carts like these from Nathan James, also passed through the seated throngs dispensing drinks.
Since 1900, every sort of Chinese delicacy imaginable has been slung cafeteria style onto the plates of hungry customers that line up in this chaotic mishmash.
The ordeal ends with satisfied smiles once diners dig in after squeezing into an empty spot at one of the dozens of tables.
Once we got our courage up enough to jump in, we went for stuffed lotus root, sticky rice wrapped in lotus leaves, a mystery fish on a stick, some other meat, likely pork, on a stick, and the main attraction, big, boiling hot, soup dumplings.
Nanxiang lays claim to originating the xiaolongbao, or soup dumpling, so we had to try one, which led to ordering a couple more.
Just as the name suggests, these are typical Chinese steamed dumplings, or buns, except they are filled with broth.
Once again our keen powers of observation came in handy as we watched to see how to go about consuming the delicacy without a major soup spilling incident. Straws! How ingenious, just suck the soup out then chow down the delicious bun.
Filled with broth, steamed dough, and confidence that we had found a small sample of the “real” Shanghai, we wandered off in the direction of one of the city’s main temples.
The City God Temple became a Taoist temple in 1403, during the Ming dynasty.
That was when the former Jinshan God Temple was converted and dedicated to Qin Yubo, an early resident, leader, and hero of Shanghai.
After Qin Yubo died, the emperor deified him as a Cheng Huang — the city god and protectorate of the town. The temple then became a City God Temple with Qin Yubo, as well as Huo Guang, the original City God of Shanghai, holding places of honor.
Since our knowledge of Taoism was nearly nonexistent, we tried our best to be unobtrusive spectators so we could watch and learn.
At first glance things seemed quite similar to the Buddhist temple we had visited in Hong Kong. Statues, offerings, and incense play a big role in the prayers at City God Temple too.
Once we learned a bit more, we discovered that while on the surface the two religions may resemble each other, the philosophies are quite different.
In simplest terms, Taoism stresses harmony with nature while Buddhism looks to reach Nirvana.
Music is an important part of Taoist ceremonies and, while we were inside the main temple building, a group of monks donned colorful robes and began playing a variety of instruments.
The instruments and music were unfamiliar to our untrained ears, but we learned that the outcome promotes the concept of balance, Yin and Yang, and is demonstrated through each sound.
WATCH:
For us it was more of a fascination, the strains of unusual melodies carried us far away from the modern world.
We took in all of the sights, sounds, and smells of the services until the monks finished their ceremony, then exited the temple into a courtyard leading to a gate that opened up to the outside world.
Walking out of that gate was like walking through a time portal, we were instantly transported back into the present.
Once again traffic clamored by and we found ourselves gazing upward, mesmerized by the twenty-first century towers reaching up for the sky.
Music is an important part of Taoist ceremonies. Watch this group of monks don colorful robes and play a variety of intriguing instruments… See more about City God Temple >>
Music is an important part of Taoist ceremonies. Watch this group of monks don colorful robes and play a variety of intriguing instruments… See more about City God Temple >>
