The feeling of the water in a swimming pool looking as if it is going off the edge of the world is something that has also always intrigued us. Which is why we think that finding a Hotel with an infinity pool is so great… CONTINUE READING >>
There is just something about being on an island. It’s a combination of excitement, romance, adventure, and possibilities that is hard to describe. But after living on a dot in the Caribbean for many years, and spending countless vacation days on various isles all across the globe, one thing we know for sure is that we like it.
One of the biggest reasons why is the marvelous sensation of watching the ocean disappear into an endless horizon. It is almost like we can see to the end of the Earth and on to infinity. Did I say infinity? Because the feeling of the water in a swimming pool looking as if it is going off to the edge of the world is something that has also always intrigued us. Which is why we think that finding a Hotel with infinity pool in Gran Canaria is such a great idea.
Being in the water while it seems as though there is no end to the pool is pretty exciting, and gets even better as the sun goes down. We highly recommend it.
But it is not only at the pool that the island feeling is so strong, in the sea-view rooms at Marina Suites in Puerto Rico on Gran Canaria every morning features the vastness of the Atlantic as your backdrop to begin a new day.
From that fresh start there are any number of possibilities for each and every day. But don’t stress out, it is better to embraced the laid back concept of “Island Time” and find that real relaxation can come from letting go of that internal clock that seems to always tell us to get going, or we’re late, or there is something more important.
Leaving that all behind is what an island vacation should be all about. Discover the beauty of simply relaxing on a private terrace or balcony with a spectacular view of the ocean and Puerto Rico marina. Maybe we should toast the sunset with a glass of wine.
The spacious Family apartments in Gran Canaria are designed to offer an unparalleled island experience, with nautical-inspired design, contemporary furniture, and an attention to detail that makes everyone feel right at home from the first moment on.
In fact, this might just be the most family-friendly hotel in Gran Canaria. And to us, that makes it a home, a home base for fun, and plenty of unforgettable moments with your loved ones. Even better, in addition to enjoying the Atlantic Pool Bar, Virtual Cycling Room, yoga, pilates, Kids Club, and all of the other activities at Marina Suites, they are happy to help set up all sorts of adventures around the island.
There are fantastic golf courses and hiking trails that make for a great day, or as we like to say, “There is never a bad day when you are on a boat.” So a cruise across the water while seeking dolphins and whales is pretty much a must for us. Also, we think that the best way to see any island is from the water.
It harkens us back to the age of exploration and gets us thinking about what it would have been like to be seeing these islands for the first time from the deck of an old sailing ship.
Like we said, there really is something about being on an island.
While the main focus of our life-long learning experience with our favorite not-for-profit company, Road Scholar, was the Greek Isles, we are certainly happy, no, let’s make that ecstatic, that it included a couple days in Athens. CONTINUE READING >>
While the main focus of our life-long learning experience with our favorite not-for-profit company, Road Scholar, was the Greek Isles, we are certainly happy, no, let’s make that ecstatic, that it included a couple days in Athens. After all, how could we learn about ancient Greek culture without getting to the heart of it all?
To understand the city we had to glean the reality from the myth because, as with everywhere we went on this journey, the two are entirely intertwined.
Did the goddess Athena actually win a contest with Poseidon (the god of the sea, not the planet) that named the city? Probably not, but that story certainly contributed to Athens becoming one of the greatest cities of the ancient world.
Even the competition struck us as a bit small for gods. The two were offering the city gifts and the best would become its namesake. Poseidon struck the ground with his trident and water sprung forth, however it was saltwater so… not so good.
Athena offered the citizens the first olive tree, which is definitely better, but still seems a bit chintzy for a gift from a goddess. That certainly didn’t matter, her victory is evident everywhere, and so are olives. Maybe not such a bad gift after all.
The citizens must have agreed because even after thousands of years the Parthenon still stands in her honor. Perched atop the acropolis, this temple is without a doubt the symbol of Athens, and has been for well over two thousand years. A little worse for wear no doubt, but majestic none the less.
We learned from our intrepid guide, Dionysios, that ingenious architectural techniques employed by the Greeks helped to make it so sturdy. On close inspection we could see that the columns are not straight up and down, and they are also slightly bulging in the middle.
In fact, every line of the magnificent temple is ever so slightly curved. Oddly enough, this is to give the impression that all of the sides are perfectly straight. The optical illusion works to fool our eyes into seeing a uniform rectangle with identical columns. This explains the phenomenon much better than we can.
The Parthenon is only one of many tributes the Athenians dedicated to their patron goddess. Another is just a stone’s throw away, the Temple of Athena Nike. Built around the same time as its much larger neighbor, the version we see now is actually a reconstruction.
As with so many ancient monuments, more recent inhabitants often snatched the stones from the originals to make other structures, and like the Parthenon the remarkable statue of Athena in this temple is also long gone.
Luckily, one likeness of the goddess remains in the form of a relief from the parapet of the roof that is on display in the Acropolis Museum. Even luckier for us, that was to be our next stop.
Originally the museum opened in 1874 and was up on the Acropolis, but as more and more artifacts were unearthed it became apparent that a bigger venue was needed. A location at the base of the famed rock outcrop was chosen and a completion for the design held but, as with almost everywhere in Athens, when construction began they discovered more ruins beneath the site.
A unique, and we think very cool, solution was implemented. Openings were left in the entrance walkway and glass floors in the interior so visitors can look down at the ruins below. Windows were also set so that views of the Acropolis dominate the upper level that houses the original frieze from the temple.
Another highlight of the museum, and one of the only exhibits that allows photographs inside, are the Caryatids of Erechtheum. Caryatids are female figures that serve as columns, and the Porch of the Maidens on the Erechtheum is perhaps the most classic example. Replicas support the porch on the temple up on the Acropolis, but the originals are safely tucked inside the museum.
Even though the temple is small, it had importance much beyond its size because it marks the place where Poseidon’s spring flowed forth and Athena’s olive tree sprouted. It is also said to be the burial site of the mythic kings Cecrops, first king of Athens, and Erechtheus, who according to Homer’s Iliad was raised by Athena.
The fact that this recorded history goes back over three thousand years shows just how much this has been a dynamic capital city almost since civilization began. There is also much more to it than just the Acropolis, so we set out to see as much as we could in our limited time.
Our second day began bright and early at The Panathenaic Stadium. It is also known as Kallimarmaro, meaning beautiful marble, and we must say that it is quite a sight to see a stadium that holds up to 80,000 people made entirely of marble, the only one in the world.
This was the original Olympic Stadium from back when the games were called the Panathenaic Games centuries before Christ. It was completely restored for the 1896 resumption of the modern Olympics and also served in the 2004 games.
Once again our gifted guide came through with a fun fact (he is named after the god of revelry after all). The cost of refurbishing the stadium was so prohibitive that a common Greek saying was spawned, “Who’s going to pay for the marble?” The answer was a businessman named George Averoff, and the donation earned him a permanent place right outside the stadium, carved in yet more marble.
The rest of our final day in Athens was spent exploring the area around the base of the Acropolis, in the neighborhood known as the Plaka. This is the oldest part of the city, so everywhere we looked we encountered millennium on millennium of antiquity.
Originally this was the residential area of the ancient city and it is sometimes called the “Neighborhood of the Gods” since it sits in the shadow of the Acropolis. Now it is a tourist haven filled with shops, restaurants, bars, and still some ruins from long ago.
Most of those relics are in the Agoras, both Roman and Greek. These were the central public areas, much like the Forum in Rome, and fortunately have not been built over. We came to the Roman section first and were most taken by the fully intact Tower of the Winds.
At first sight the forty foot high structure may not be overwhelming, but as we learned about its function we were duly impressed. This is the world’s first weather station. The tops of the eight sides each depict a direction of the wind carved in relief that a vane pointed to in the breeze.
There were also sun dials on each wall and a water driven clock inside, so this could rightly be considered the world’s first clock tower.
From the Roman area we moved on to the Greek side, which predates it. Mostly we wanted a close up look at Temple of Hephaestus. We had seen it from afar while on top of the Acropolis and were bound and determined to get a better view.
Looking very much like a miniature Parthenon, this is widely held as the best preserved temple from all of ancient Greece. It is likely that it survived so well because it had the good fortune to be converted to a church around the year 700 AD and continued in that capacity until 1833.
From the best preserved temple we made our way to one of the worst kept, the Temple of Olympian Zeus. Yet even though only sixteen columns remain, it is still remarkably impressive. When construction began in the 6th century BC it was to be the largest temple in Greece, but wasn’t finished until Rome had taken control.
Emperor Hadrian managed to finish it over 600 years later, but after only a century a barbarian invasion ransacked the shrine. After that, much of the marble used in its construction was pilfered for building nearby houses and churches.
Guess we can’t blame them.
Who wouldn’t want to live in a home made from mythological marble?
We hit Japan right at the peak of the cherry blossoms blooming. Known as sakura, the blooming trees have deep roots in Japanese culture… CONTINUE READING >>
In another of what seems to be a series of unbelievable bits of good timing we have encountered in our travels, we hit Japan right at the peak of the cherry blossoms blooming.
At our first stop, Nagasaki, we were enthralled by the flowering trees all around The Atomic Bomb Museum.
They helped add a quiet touch to the somber site advocating peace near the epicenter of the atomic bomb blast that devastated the city in 1945.
The buds also thrive in the nearby park that marks ground zero.
The trees are a real tribute to recovery since scientists predicted that radioactive fallout wouldn’t allow plants to grow for seventy-five years.
Between Nagasaki and our next stop, Osaka, we looked into some of the history of the cherry blossom tradition in Japan.
Known as sakura, the blooming trees have deep roots in Japanese culture.
They do not produce fruit, which when we thought about it is most likely a good thing because if each of the blooms became a cherry… well that’s a lot of cherries!
Instead, the trees have been cultivated for their flowers and are said to symbolize clouds or, because of the fact that the blooms only last about a week, mortality.
This brevity has associated the blossoms with the concept of mono no aware, literally translated as “the pathos of things,” a Japanese term for the awareness of the transience of life.
On a lighter note, the Japanese people have embraced Hanami, the ancient tradition of picnicking under a blooming sakura tree.
The custom began over a thousand years ago with royalty, but has been adopted by everyone.
Over the centuries the cherry blossoms have become so iconic to the Japanese that they even used to plant the trees on conquered territories to show their authority over the new land.
On our arrival in Osaka, good fortune struck again when we discovered that our hotel was right across from The Expo Park. Built for the Japan World Exhibition of 1970, the park just happens to be listed as one of the top 100 places for viewing cherry blossoms in Japan.
The focal point of the park is the Tower of the Sun, by famous Japanese sculptor Okamoto Taro.
The crazy looking bird statue looms over two hundred feet above the park and has three faces.
Shockingly, the top face is not called “Satellite Dish Bird Face” as we were calling it. It is actually meant to represent the Sun of the Future, with the other face on the front representing the Sun of the Present, and on the back of the tower is the Sun of the Past.
But as famous as the tower is, it was definitely playing second fiddle to the flowers.
At least for this week while the sakura were at their peak.
Thousands of folks were flooding into the park and we didn’t see a single one of them take a photo of old satellite dish face.
The Vernal Equinox is here! What a great time to visit Stonehenge. The famous ring of rocks has eluded me ever since I realized that I had missed an easy opportunity to see it on a visit to London back in 1987.
From that moment on I was motivated to make it to the mythical monument… CONTINUE READING >>
The Vernal Equinox is here! What a great time to visit Stonehenge.
The famous ring of rocks has eluded me ever since I realized that I had missed an easy opportunity to see it on a visit to London back in 1987.
I could have just hopped on a bus for the short ride out to the mysterious site or taken one of the Stonehenge Tours, but didn’t know it at the time.
Not long after that, I discovered the cult classic movie This Is Spinal Tap and was humorously reminded of my failure every time I saw their heavy metal mystic rock spoof Stonehenge.
From that moment on I was motivated to make a visit to the mythical monument.
From time to time we would fly through London, only staying long enough to change planes, and I could practically feel the nearby presence taunting me.
Foamhenge
I came close to a viewing a few years ago with a stop in Virginia at Foamhenge, a life-sized replica made of Styrofoam, but as fantastically campy as that was it did not placate my passion for experiencing the real thing.
Finally, on our way to our recent walking tour of Cornwall, I got my chance.
The real Stonehenge
We stopped off in Salisbury for an overnight on the train from London and hopped aboard one of the hourly busses that ferry visitors to and from the archaeological marvel.
Believed to date back to around 3000 BC, the monument has had three major phases. Through the first thousand years or so the construction consisted of earthworks and trenches. This was followed by several hundred years of timber posts being erected within the original circle that had been dug centuries earlier.
Evidence shows that it was around this time that burials began to take place within the circles. However, soon after our visit an ancient burial chamber was unearthed near Stonehenge.
These ancient graves date back over two thousand years before the presumed beginnings the site, adding more questions as to why this place was so significant to the ancient people who built it.
Next, around 2600 BC, the builders began erecting stones. This development only added more mystery to the monument. The blocks are believed to have been brought from some 150 miles away, which took some serious determination.
What could possibly have inspired these ancient builders to drag untold tons of rock from so far away? It certainly made my little quest to see their handiwork seem pretty pitiful in comparison.
It was also during this time that an astronomical aspect of the stone rings was incorporated. The builders carefully aligned gaps between the rocks so that they would line up with sunrise on the summer solstice and sunset on the winter counterpart.
The final phase included the largest stones. This time the blocks were brought in from about 25 miles to the north. They were used to construct the iconic doorway like structures of upright stones topped by lintels, with each piece weighing up to fifty tons.
As enormous as these are, standing up to 30 feet high, I have to say that my first impression upon seeing the monument was that it was somewhat smaller than expected. Perhaps my years of anticipation had instilled a larger than life impression in my imagination.
Aside from that initial reaction, Stonehenge lived up to all the hype I had formed in my mind over the years. So we stood in proper awe wondering just what would possess ancient people to pursue this great undertaking.
Whoever made the monument left no written records; so many aspects of Stonehenge remain a mystery. Over time a number of myths developed surrounding the stones, including one of the most often repeated which is that the Druids were the builders behind the mystical boulder circles.
My favorite fictional band Spinal Tap described them thusly:
“No one knows who they were or what they were doing, but their legacy remains hewn into the living rock of Stonehenge.”
The theory arose around 1640 in a study by John Aubrey and hung around for centuries until better dating methods placed the construction long before any Druids danced anywhere near a Stonehenge monument.
But even though we now know who didn’t build it, there have been precious few good theories as to who did, or why.
Has Merlin returned to stand atop the magical stones as a raven?
In the middle ages some thought that the rocks of Stonehenge had healing powers. This myth, called the giant’s dance, had giants bringing the stones from Africa to Ireland, and then on to the plains near Salisbury years later to erect a memorial on the advice of, and with some magic help from, Merlin.
For most of modern times the historic site was held in the hands of various kings, earls, lords, and marquesses. During World War I the surrounding grasslands served as an air base then, soon afterwards it was donated to the government.
For many years visitors were allowed to walk among the stones, and even touch them, but in 1977 the site was roped off, so the best we could do was walk around the perimeter. Considering the crowds, we had no problem with that, happily abiding by the rule for the preservation of the ancient achievement.
More recently a visitor center and small museum have been added, where theories on how the stones may have been moved and how the builders may have lived are recreated in life-sized models. While interesting, these are little more than guesses because any indications of their methods have long since disappeared.
The usual speculation is that ancient people moved large objects by rolling them on logs, which makes good sense, but it is only a best guess.
Inside the center, we browsed through old photos and memorabilia until we stumbled upon a serious collector’s item.
There, standing in a display case, we found a limited edition record of Spinal Tap’s Stonehenge pressed on a picture of the stones. What a way to close out my successful quest to finally see the stones.
On the bus back to Salisbury I had to download the song on my phone.
It seemed only fitting… one might even say like a glove. (No smelling required.)
We thought we knew all we needed to know about leprechauns. But with St. Patrick’s Day upon us we thought we should investigate further. Turns out that we knew next to nothing… CONTINUE READING >>
With St. Patrick’s Day coming up we thought we’d take another look at our visit to the Leprechaun Museum in Dublin. Hope it brings you a little luck o’ the Irish!
We thought we knew all we needed to know about leprechauns before we arrived at the National Leprechaun Museum.
As American kids, we learned from the authoritative source of Lucky Charms commercials just how mischievous they could be.
We’d spent hours dreaming about how we’d spend that pot o’ gold at the end of the rainbow – should we be lucky enough to find it.
Turns out that we knew next to nothing.
Thinking the museum was likely to be a magically delicious, cheesy tourist diversion — and we LOVE cheesy tourist diversions — we made a beeline to it as soon as we reached Dublin.
Actually, it was the first attraction we visited in all of Ireland.
The museum has its fair share of cheese – to be sure. The first hall we entered was filled with great memorabilia, including a retro example of our beloved American Lucky Charms boxes.
But this is not a museum in the traditional sense, it is more of a multi-sensual experience. Because the Irish are natural storytellers, it ’twas the storytelling that made our visit shine for us.
Once we had our fill of the pop-culture history of leprechauns through ceramic miniatures, cereal boxes, movie posters (remember Darby O’Shea and the Little People?), and eerie-looking dolls, we were led by a dynamic young storyteller named Patrick through a magical portal.
A faerie tunnel that shrunk us smaller and smaller, until we became wee folk – diminutive enough to comprehend the legends we were about to hear.
Verified normal-sized chair
Tales of happenings that full-sized humans simply can’t wrap their big ol’ brains around.
The realm of the leprechaun is shadowy and, when our doubting eyes had adjusted, we could see that a seemingly impossible transition had indeed taken place.
We had entered a room where simply taking a seat was quite an ordeal.
Land o’ Goshen, we were tiny!
But Patrick insisted we sit, so we hoisted our way up onto the comfy chairs and he set us straight on the facts — and some of the misconceptions — about the little people of Ireland. Among them:
– A leprechaun wouldn’t be caught dead in green; they sport red jackets and hats.
– They are incredible shoemakersand you can always avoid one by listening for the sound of his cobblers hammer.
– There are no female leprechauns. We wanted to ask how they reproduce, but there were kids in the room.
– They are not the gregarious fellas of Lucky Charms lore, taunting folks with their riches. They are loners – grumpy misers who just want to make shoes and hoard their gold in private. We aren’t certain who they sell said shoes to, and had to wonder how we might get our hands on a pair.
– If you are (un)lucky enough to catch one, you may be granted wishes, but watch your back– they are known for their shenanigans.
Jumping down from our lofty height, we were led through the middle of rainbow (a first for us!) and beheld what our adult selves thought we’d never see – the mythical pot o’ gold.
While straining for the sound of a shoemaker’s hammer with one ear, we listened as Patrick imparted a cautionary tale with the other:
In a field of many trees, a human man sneak-attacked and caught a leprechaun.
The human insisted the leprechaun show him his hidden gold in return for the little man’s freedom.
The agreement was made and they made their way to a tree where the bounty was buried, but – alas – the man had no shovel!
Releasing the cagey leprechaun, the human doffed one of his red garters and hung it on a branch of the tree to mark his score.
He ran like the wind all the way home and back (most likely giggling greedily along the way), only to find upon his return that EVERY tree in the field had been marked with an identical garter.
We’re assuming lots of pointless digging commenced.
See what we mean about shenanigans and watching your back?
As we journeyed deeper into the supernatural world, the surroundings became ever more shadowy.
We traipsed though the ebony land of banshees, fairy folk, and púca while sitting on toad stools and listening to Patrick relay their sagas.
Once the tales had all been told, we stepped through a door and burst outside into the bright daylight. We were momentarily stunned.
Returning to the realm of our normal-sized lives was an adjustment after experiencing the land of the leprechauns.
With an Irish blessing we were sent forth from the opaque faery landscape and into a land where the sun seemed too bright and the streets held no magic.
Asking for the road to rise to meet us didn’t seem to help all that much, but at least the wind at our backs was always our own.
All too often people think of Europe just in terms of London, Paris, and Rome. We have discovered that there are many other incredible cities across the continent to explore. Kraków is a great example of this… CONTINUE READING >>
Sometimes we feel like all too often people think of Europe just in terms of London, Paris, and Rome. Oh sure, maybe Barcelona, Amsterdam, or Venice might sneak into the thoughts of some more experienced travelers, but as we have spent more and more time gallivanting across the continent we have discovered that there are so many other incredible cities to explore.
Quite a few come to mind, but even with all of our explorations there are still a whole bunch of hidden gems in Europe that we have yet to discover. Lately, one of those gems, Kraków, Poland, has been moving up on our list of places we want to visit.
Why, you ask? Because there is so much to see, learn, and do in this beautiful and historic city, which is one of the oldest in all of Poland. Founded over a thousand years ago on the site of a cave where, according to legend, King Krak slayed a dragon, a visit to Kraków can be like a visit to a long lost place and time.
We usually choose to begin our explorations of any new destination by wandering the streets in the historic center, and since the Old Town in Kraków is one of UNESCO’s very first World Heritage Sites, this seems perfect.
Highlights of the town include the beautiful Wawel Castle. Historically it served as home to the kings of Poland, and as an iconic symbol of the country, but these days the Castle is one of the country’s premier art museums.
The Town Hall Tower is also a must see as a wonderful representation of 13th-Century Gothic-Renaissance architecture. There is an amazing view of the city from the top floor for those of us who are willing to climb some stairs.
But we are most interested in taking the Schindler Factory Tour, which is often recognized as Kraków’s most outstanding historical museum. We are, of course, familiar with the story from the movie Schindler’s List, so we are eager to learn more and hope to gain a better understanding of what life was actually like in the ghetto. This tour does just that by delving into the details of day to day life in Kraków under the Nazi occupation from 1939 to 1945.
A knowledgeable local guide leads the group through the Enamel Factory that was made famous in the movie, and gives an in depth look into the compelling story of Oskar Schindler and how he saved hundreds, if not thousands, of Jews from extermination.
After such an emotional experience, we’d say a short break is in order. How about stopping off for an obwarzanek, better known to most of us a a bagel. Kraków is considered to be the place where these tasty bread rings were first served.
Bagels were first mentioned in print way back in 1610 when the Polish word bajgiel, which comes from the Yiddish word bagel, appeared in the “Community Regulations” of the city of Kraków. Their popularity spread and by the seventeen-hundreds bagels had become a staple of Polish cuisine.
Thinking about these salty treats got us wondering, where did the salt come from to make all of those bagels? With a little investigating we found out that one of the oldest salt mines in the world is right nearby. That’s when we knew that we should definitely make our way to the Wieliczka Salt Mine.
The mine is another UNESCO World Heritage site and can be crowded sometimes, so we certainly feel that a tour with a good guide and a “skip the line” option is a great idea. In our opinion, Salt Mines KrakowTickets is the best way to make the best use of our time.
Though it is not operational now, and is only open for tours and special events, the mine continued as an important source for salt for over eight hundred years, up until 1998. Through those centuries Wieliczka was one of the most productive mines in the world, but it also became a popular tourist attraction as far back as several hundred years ago.
Venturing over three hundred meters underground, the modern tour includes an underground lake, the Chapel of St. Kinga, as well as several salt monuments and sculptures. In addition to these sensational subterranean sights, the guide also covers the long history of the mine going back nearly one thousand years, along with details about the salt extraction techniques over the centuries. The tour is an impressive reminder of just how important salt was throughout history.
As far as we know the Wieliczka Mine had nothing to do with the old saying referring to the grind of going back to your job as “going back to the salt mine,” but we will certainly have a better understanding of it after this.
Although if visiting it, and all of Kraków, was hard work, we say bring it on.
With Fat Tuesday fast approaching, we dug back in our archives for this tale of festivities, revelry, and merriment. We offer it as inspiration for anyone who might be planning an adventure of their own.
Don’t get us wrong – we LOVE New Orleans. But the thought of wading into a Big Easy Mardi Gras is something better left to young whippersnappers.
We took the rural route and learned about the wonderful goings-on in Cajun Country – what they call the REAL Mardi Gras!
Let the good times roll!
THE CRAZIEST THING WE’VE SEEN YET…
AND WE’VE SEEN A LOT OF CRAZY THINGS
We discovered a long-held rural tradition of Cajun Country, Courir de Mardi Gras, in Church Point. It translates to Fat Tuesday Run and traces its origins back to medieval France and the fête de la quémande or feast of begging.
Runners, known as Mardi Gras, ride horses or wagons through the countryside stopping to beg at farms for ingredients for a communal gumbo to be made after the run. The most common offering from the farmers is a chicken which then must be chased and captured by the Mardi Gras.
At 5 AM we were awoken by the beginnings of the revelry. Horses started making their presence known and whoops and hollers filled the early morning air. The staging area was already a sea of mud.
We watched curiously while the participants – who by tradition must be male, over 14 and in costume – registered, drank, saddled up, drank, greeted each other, drank, got geared up, drank, played music, drank, danced, and oh yeah, drank some more. Costumes are imperative to the tradition in that the identity…CONTINUE READING
You’ve gotta watch the video to believe it…it’s, well, just watch.
CLICK TO ENLARGE PICTURES (and more history, crazy goings on and what happened when Veronica became part of the proceedings!)
MARDI GRAS DAY – A TALE OF TWO TOWNS
Asking around, we got conflicting answers to the question, “Where do we spend the actual day of Mardi Gras?”
We had spent almost three weeks in Acadiana, celebrating all things Mardi Gras, but still hadn’t landed on where to spend the big day.
Narrowing our many choices down to two, we focused on Eunice and Mamou, because each boasted chicken chasing, a big street festival and authenticity.
We were told Eunice was both “the best – by far” and “too commercial.” Mamou, on the other hand receive reviews like “the most authentic” and “just a bunch of drunks sitting on ice chests.”
Like the idiots we are, we decided to visit both. And both… CONTINUE READING
The Boucherie is not necessarily a part of the Mardi Gras celebration, in fact it most likely predates Mardi Gras activities here in South Louisiana, but in recent years many communities have included the old fashioned hog slaughter in their weekend of Mardi Gras events.
Back in the days before refrigeration families would get together to share a butchered hog because the meat would go bad before one family could eat it all. Before long this became a pretty good excuse to throw a little party.
Interesting and entertaining, not to mention tasty. After watching every part of the pig get cut for a specific purpose, we had the chance to sample… CONTINUE READING
“Fais do-do” is Cajun baby talk for “go to sleep” and once the kiddies are all tucked sweetly in bed, Mamma and Daddy (and Maw Maw and Paw Paw) have the chance to “pass a good time.”
We kicked off the Friday before Mardi Gras at a Fais do-do in Church Point.
We were told by a woman earlier in the day that the Fais do-do was essential for us to attend, as it was when the town “come together like family” and that we would be treated as such. And we were.
In a little town like Church Point, we normally stick out like sore thumbs, not because we’re so different as much as that everyone literally knows everyone, and we – well – we don’t know anyone. That changed at the Fais do-do.
The people of Church Point have never met a stranger, we were welcomed with open arms as everyone — from the Queen of The Courir de Mardi Gras, to the ladies handing out beer, to the mayor himself — took the extra time to make sure we had le bon temps!
Big shout out to the band “Straight Whiskey” – the real deal.
HOW MUCH KING CAKE CAN ONE PERSON EAT?
As soon as we crossed over the Louisiana border we began seeing King Cakes.
This tradition started in France in the 1100s to commemorate the Three Kings’ visit to the Christ Child.
In Acadiana the King Cake is in the shape of a ring to symbolize a crown and decorated in Mardi Gras purple, gold and green.
A little plastic baby Jesus is hidden inside the cake and the person who’s slice contains the baby is designated as the host of the next Mardi Gras or King Cake Party.
After asking around, we found out that there are no hard and fast rules when it comes to the flavor of the cake. Bakeries generally fill their King Cakes with cream cheese and fruit, and some fancier versions include marzipan or Bavarian cream. The only guiding principle seems to be the colors – purple for justice, green for faith and gold for power.
The King Cake can be found in this area from January 6th until Mardi Gras Day.
THE BEST BETWEEN-THE-WEEKENDS DIVERSION
THE place to be on the Wednesday night before Mardi Gras is “Taster’s Choice” in Eunice. We headed down to the Acadian Center at LSU/Eunice to eat some of the best Cajun food we’ve ever had.
Over twenty chefs sponsored by local businesses bring their best dishes for the benefit of the Community Clinic – and a big time is had by all!
For 20 bucks each, we ate ourselves silly and were mesmerized by Marc Savoy on the French accordion playing traditional Cajun music with his family and friends – AND it was all for a great cause.
Once each guest made the rounds and sampled the food, we were encouraged to vote for our favorite dish. Here were ours:
Best sponsor name – Guidry’s Dirt Service’s Crawfish Chowder
Most clever name – Bayou Alfredeaux
All around favorite – Fruge Lumber Company’s Crawfish Étouffée
YOU CAN GET BOOZE AT THE DRIVE-THRU WINDOW?
As a matter of fact, you can.
And not just during Mardi Gras season. All over Cajun Country all you have to do is drive up and order.
Being the curious types, we tried it on bikes.
It was about one in the afternoon in Marksville when we rolled up to the window at Daiquiri Island and didn’t even get a reaction from our server.
The drink menu was nailed to the wall by the window with concoctions called “Stanky Leg,” “Purple Haze,” and “Whoop Ass,” (among others we’re too embarrassed to type BUT there’s a pic here)!
There was no explanation as to what they might be made of, so we went with something we had heard of – a Mudslide. When asked what size, we opted to split a small – which was 20oz! Delicious and VERY potant. An adult chocolate milkshake, if you will.
Later in the day, we found another interesting establishment, The Watering Hole.
Instead of a drive-up window, we actually drove through the building. The walls were lined with refrigerator cases filled with cold beer, wine and the like. And there were daiquiris, as well. Our favorite name was “Hillbilly Suicide.”
The drink we had split earlier was MORE than enough, so we opted for a pound of crawfish scooped up out of a cooler – the biggest little mudbugs we’d ever seen. Delicious!
CLICK TO ENLARGE PICTURES (and more!)
Some parades are focused on floats and bead throws.
Not in Jeanerette. This little town of 6,000 throws a real show. Marching bands, twirlers and dancers of all ages fill out the spaces between the floats.
They don’t call Jeanerette “Sugar City” for nothing – this town doesn’t mess around with the treats they throw – candy, beads, stuffed animals, candy, trickets, oh, and candy. And gum.
Seriously. It was insane. We had discussed ahead of time our rules of personal bead gathering, as we wanted to get a realisic idea about how many one could expect to gather.
-No picking them off the street.
-No grabbing them away from eager youngsters (think foul balls at a baseball game).
-Unless they are thrown directly to us or hit us when we weren’t paying attention, they did not go around our necks.
Even so, we could barely walk back to our vehicle – madness, sheer madness.
We should have realized something was up when we saw all of the “Throw Me Something Mister” signs and fishing nets. The winner was a kid who was holding a laundry basket affixed to a broomstick, creating a target that no float rider could resist trying to make.
By the halfway point there were nearly as many plastic bags that had held the beads floating on the wind in Lafayette as beads themselves.
Chicken chasing, colorful costumes and dancing on horseback? It’s Courir de Mardi Gras in Church Point! You’ve gotta watch the video to believe it…it’s, well, just watch… CONTINUE READING >>
You’ve gotta watch the video to believe it…it’s, well, just watch.
In our search for Mardi Gras celebrations that don’t involve any over exposure, we discovered a long held rural tradition of Cajun Country, Courir de Mardi Gras, in Church Point. It translates to Fat Tuesday Run and traces its origins back to medieval France and the fête de la quémande or feast of begging.
Runners, known as Mardi Gras, ride horses or wagons through the countryside stopping to beg at farms for ingredients for a communal gumbo to be made after the run. The most common offering from the farmers is a chicken which then must be chased and captured by the Mardi Gras. (click here to find out more on Mardi Gras outside of New Orleans)
Several people told us that one of the most authentic of these Runs still in existence takes place the Sunday before Fat Tuesday in Church Point Louisiana, so we knew where we were headed.
As luck would have it, the starting point for the festivities, The Saddle Tramp Club, also serves as a campground, so we picked a spot, braved Saturday’s torrential rains, and waited for the madness to ensue.
At 5 AM we were awoken by the beginnings of the revelry. Horses started making their presence known and whoops and hollers filled the early morning air. The staging area was already a sea of mud.
We watched curiously while the participants – who by tradition must be male, over 14 and in costume – registered, drank, saddled up, drank, greeted each other, drank, got geared up, drank, played music, drank, danced, and oh yeah, drank some more.
Costumes are imperative to the tradition in that the identity of each Mardi Gras should be kept secret, allowing behavior that would never be acceptable any other day of the year. This also dates back to medieval times when costumes were used to mock the wealthy nobility during the fête.
After a couple hours of carousing, Le Capitaine and his co-capitaines organized the troops and prepared to lead the mounted participants out. In addition to the riders, wagons filled with more costumed Mardi Gras runners fell in line. The roads outside the Saddle Club were lined with hundreds more merry makers on floats but not actually participating in the run. (click here to find out more on Mardi Gras outside of New Orleans)
We weren’t really sure how we were going to observe the proceedings, but during the mustering of the troops we finagled a spot on the beer wagon where we could view the madness from in amongst them all.
This seemed like a great plan until Le Capitaine rode up to inform us that Veronica could not stay since strict tradition dictates that no women are allowed within the actual run.
Somewhat miffed, but not about to buck tradition, her up-to-the knees-in-mud-dy self was escorted to the Queens Float with the pagent winners, which worked out fine since, by the time she had perfected her parade wave, they arrived at the first farm before the runners. She had a perfect view of the sneaking up, begging, and ultimately the chasing of the chickens.
It was absolute insanity, even a bit surreal, as the farmer tossed the bird in the air and costumed, inebriated Mardi Gras chased it all over. Much mud wallowing was involved.
After several stops with more chasing and wallowing, the entire procession made its way through town in the form of a parade. At this point it took on a feel of a typical Mardi Gras celebration as riders on floats threw beads and trinkets to the crowds lining the streets. Meanwhile the Run participants headed back to The Saddle Tramp Club for the gumbo.