The pine trees
Home to amazing
restaurants, America’s oldest gay bar and a massive monument recognizing
the place where the Pilgrims really first landed, P-town possesses
copious quantities of character. Toss in the power and beauty
of the Atlantic Ocean encircling the tiny strip of land — forming
dazzling beaches — and it becomes nearly impossible not to love
this easternmost tip of Massachusetts.
centuries the bitter end of Cape Cod was home to only whalers
and fishermen. The population grew through the 1800s as numerous
Portuguese sailors settled in P-town and their influence is still strong
today. Every year P-town hosts a Portuguese festival in late June
Also Faced the Sea,” a series of large portraits
women living in Provincetown, is a beautiful tribute to the hardworking
women who have kept tradition alive for over two centuries.
years many writers, actors and artists sought the solace, solitude
and inspiration that Cape Cod offered and settled among the seafarers.
The eclectic mix worked well, with everyone adopting a live and
let live attitude. Today Provincetown is very much a summer destination,
with the population increasing nearly tenfold during the season.
Only a little over 3,000 hardy souls are willing to brave the
North Atlantic winters.
the day by making our way up to the Pilgrim Monument and
Provincetown Museum. The monument is a huge tower modeled
after the Torre del Mangia in Siena, Italy. With President
Teddy Roosevelt laying the cornerstone in 1907, the tower
was built to commemorate the signing of the Mayflower Compact
and mark the place where the Pilgrims actually first landed
in November of 1620.
upon arrival, our celebrated Pilgrims began raiding the local Nauset
tribe’s graves and food stores. None too pleased with these newcomers
stealing their corn right before winter, the Nauset forced the would-be settlers across the bay to Plymouth and its famous, if not entirely
Staring up at the 252 foot structure, we girded our loins for the
176 step climb to the crown (sorry, no elevators!). Trudging ever
upward, we dug in as we tried to disregard our aching calves and
ignore the adolescent boys whizzing by. Showoffs.
cars were on the road. We brought our bikes with us, but rentals
are readily available. Good thing too, because driving a car is
nearly impossible through the narrow streets that are completely
packed with pedestrians and cyclists in the summer months. Though
we have to say, the bicyclists are just as aggressive as the motorists
in Massachusetts, so we were kept on our toes.
stopped for lunch at Enzo, in the heart of the Commercial
Street district to sit outdoors and enjoy some bang-up people
watching. Enzo, a restaurant and guesthouse in an old Victorian
mansion, has a spectacular raw bar lunch. Imagine little neck
clams for $1.50 each, Wellfleet oysters for two bucks or a lobster tail
for eight. And the decadent spicy seafood chowder. Uh, wicked
A quick note
to first time visitors: It gets pretty raucous on Commerce Street
as night falls, not a place for the kiddies or the easily shocked,
so here’s a good rule of thumb — if the French Quarter of New
Orleans offends you, so will Commerce Street at night. A big time
is had by all.
Several of the current inhabitants, boasting
sand between their dock and the
next group of houses. Not much of a beach, but its coolness factor
more than made up for it.
Opened in 1798 as a tavern, this is
As a sign
David & Veronica,
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