Is the Food Good in Ireland? In Dingle it is!

A big thank you to for providing this yummy adventure. As always, all opinions are our own.

Dingle, Ireland

Is the food good in Ireland? We went on a quest to find out!

Dingle, Ireland

Before arriving on the Emerald Isle, our idea of eating in Ireland fell in the corned beef and cabbage, Irish stew, meat and potatoes line of thinking.

Nothing wrong with that, we love a good, hearty meal as much as the next guy, but out on the wild western edge of the island they’ve been cooking up something very different.

Dingle, Ireland

In the little town of Dingle, foodies have arrived and the gourmet fare they brought with them is causing quite a stir.

Sure the basics — pub food and fish & chips –are still around but several top-notch restaurants, and even a cooking school, have sprouted up.

It was our good fortune to give a few a try.

Victorian Splendor

The Victorian splendor of Benner's Hotel in Dingle, Ireland

Upon arriving in the little town that gave the name to the Dingle Peninsula, we checked into the Victorian splendor that is Benner’s Hotel, and then checked out our surroundings.

Staying at Benner’s put us right in the heart of Main Street, an easy walk to almost anywhere in town.

The Victorian splendor of Benner's Hotel in Dingle, Ireland

Appetizers at Ashes Bar and Restaurant in Dingle, Ireland

After the drive from Dublin, we were more than ready to give one of those gourmet establishments a try, and it couldn’t have been more convenient.

Ashes Bar & Restaurant was right across the street. From the name — and the storefront outside — Ashe’s didn’t have the look of fine dining, but looks can deceive.

Incredible mussels at Ashes Bar and Restaurant in Dingle, Ireland

The casual atmosphere was welcome after our journey, and the food incorporated local flavors and ingredients that went way beyond our meat and potato imaginings.

For one thing, seafood is often the meat of choice out here on the peninsula, so we started with an amazing bowl of mussels.

Buttery hake at Ashes Bar and Restaurant in Dingle, Ireland

That was followed by a buttery hake fillet joined by a cockle.

We have heard about warming cockles, and silver bells and cockle shells, since our nursery rhyme days, but this was the first time ever to eat one.

After trying them, we had to wonder why cockles aren’t more famous as a food. They seem to be stuck in a sad rut as an obscure star of old adages. They deserve better.

Lamb and spinach pasta at Ashes Bar and Restaurant in Dingle, Ireland

Unwilling to completely abandon our love of meat (or David’s anyway!), we also tried some homemade pasta with lamb, local mushrooms, and spinach.

The dish took comfort food to a new level; perhaps we should call it lap of luxury food.

How the Irish start their day

The next day, after discovering a traditional Irish breakfast at Benner’s Hotel, we hit the streets again.

Traditional Irish breakfast with black and white pudding at Benner’s Hotel in Dingle Ireland
Traditional Irish breakfast: bacon, bangers, potatoes, mushrooms, tomato, Benner’s famous black AND white pudding and egg.

To market, to market

Choosing potatoes at the open air market in Dingle, Ireland

We met up with Chef Mark Murphy at the local farmer’s market.

He was there to gather some produce for our upcoming cooking class, and show us around a bit.

We were more than happy just to soak in the ambiance and watch the denizens of Dingle doing a little morning shopping.

Buying homemade bread at the open air market in Dingle, Ireland

Wares at the open air market in Dingle, Ireland

We even joined in, buying lovely handmade knits at the booth of a nearby cooperative that works with folks with special needs.

Turned out we found the perfect gift for our sister-in-law, the wonderful mommy of our special needs niece, who had asked us to snag her a Irish woolen scarf.

Lamb Sausage at the open air market in Dingle, Ireland

We also couldn’t resist a lamb sausage.

After all, the sign on the stand clearly read: It’s never too early for a sausage and it had to have been at least an hour since we ate (wait, that rule is for swimming. Oh well).

We stopped in The Little Cheese Shop for a taste of some of proprietor and cheese artisan Mija Binder’s award-winning creations in Dingle, Ireland

From the market, we walked over to The Little Cheese Shop for a taste of some of proprietor and cheese artisan Mija Binder’s award-winning creations.

The selections are all organic, made right at her nearby dairy, and some are incredibly innovative.

Using techniques she learned in Switzerland, she experiments with unlikely regional ingredients such as seaweed and truffles.

Gone fishin’

The harbor in Dingle, Ireland

We sampled several while Mark bought a few for our post-class cheese plate at the school.

Honestly, we could have happily stayed in Mija’s shop snacking for the rest of the day, but we had other fish to fry.

Fresh fish that is, as fresh as it gets.

At Dingle’s harbor, we followed Mark aboard the Sarah Ellie to check out the catch of the day.

Fresh caught fish for sale in the harbor of Dingle, Ireland
Mark’s fresh catch – straight from the harbor!

Pollock, just caught that morning, would be on our menu and we would be learning to fillet it too.

With our supplies all procured, we headed over to the Dingle Cookery School to get started.

Cookin’ Dingle style

Learning to cook at Dingle Cookery School in Dingle, Ireland

At the school we absorbed a wealth of information in a short time, much of it involving the proper — and safe — use of incredibly sharp knives.

First we sliced, chopped, julienned, and otherwise hacked up all sorts of vegetables for salads and roasting, all the while filing away the knowledge gained for future use. Avoiding Finger Removal 101.

Dingle, Ireland's famous seaweed is used in many dishes.
Mark explained how Dingle’s famous seaweed is used for cooking in the region.

With that information tucked away in our craniums, we proceeded to tackle the task of filleting a large fish.

Pollock is in the cod family and has plenty of meat for filleting. Chef Mark demonstrated, and then allowed us to give it a try.

By cutting down the backbone and then slicing along the ribs we managed to remove some fairly nice pieces of meat.

We couldn’t claim to be experts by any means, but there was enough to fill a couple of frying pans.

With a quick sear and a sizzle, lunch was ready.

We cooked some lovely pollack at Dingle Cookery School in Dingle, Ireland

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Murphy's Ice Cream in Dingle, Ireland

Afterwards we topped ourselves off at Murphy’s Ice Cream because there’s always room for ice cream, are we right?

As with the cheese shop, Murphy’s likes to experiment with unusual flavors.

Usually these have ties to the area such as sea salt, Irish coffee, caramelised brown bread, and Dingle Gin.

Murphy's Ice Cream in Dingle, Ireland

We sampled them all, and they were much like Lucky Charms, magically delicious, but they seemed to be better in small quantities (not unlike the cereal), so we settled on the lighter raspberry and black currant sorbets.

We’d been seeing Dingle Gin as an ingredient all over this foodie town, and felt the draw of the Dingle Distillery.

Gotta have Irish whiskey, sort of

Dingle Distillery in Dingle Ireland

Nearly three years ago, they proudly opened as Ireland’s first all-Irish owned distillery in over 200 years.

Considering how folks around here feel about Irish whiskey, that’s a pretty big deal.

We got to check out the entire process, from mash to aging, and learned a whole lot about exactly what is involved in producing premium spirits.

Dingle Distillery in Dingle Ireland

An interesting tidbit – whiskey begins almost identically to beer, as a fermented grain mixture.

Whiskey is then distilled down to nearly pure alcohol and aged in barrels for several years, whereas beer is flavored with hops and ready for consumption in just a matter of weeks.

Dingle Distillery in Dingle Ireland

Irish law dictates that whiskey must be aged at least three years so we couldn’t sample any of the finished product.

Instead they let us try how it tastes before going into the barrels.

This was the raw, colorless, close-to-130 proof stuff.

Wow! Nearly blew our heads off. Luckily the aging process will take the edge off, and it is diluted down to 80 proof for bottling.

The super shiny tasting room at Dingle Distillery in Dingle Ireland
The super shiny tasting room!

They also allowed us a taste of their vodka and gin, which are allowed to be sold because there are no aging rules for them.

We are not experts by any means, since we generally stick to beer and wine, but they certainly went down smooth.

The view that inspired the location of Dingle Distillery in Dingle Ireland
The view that inspired the location of Dingle Distillery.

As for the whiskey, the three years are almost up, so there’s fixin’ to be a big ole party in Dingle this winter.

Fungie, the famous dolphin!

The statue of Fungie the dolphin in Dingle Ireland

The following morning found us back at the harbor, this time to take a short cruise with Dingle Bay Charters on the Lady Breda.

The first order of business for Captain Tom Hand was to take us to the spot where Fungie is known to hang around.

Fungie, Dingle Ireland's famous dolphin

From the looks of things around the harbor, Fungie must be the most famous bottlenose dolphin since Flipper.

According to local lore, he has been making regular appearances in Dingle Harbor since 1983.

True to form, he did not disappoint on this day either, coming up to frolic beside our boat and several others that came out to visit him.

The harbor of Dingle, Ireland

Headed out to open waters… and a bit of folly

From our Fungie encounter we made way toward the mouth of the harbor while our host for the morning, Mike Dooley, pointed out the points of interest.

Hussey's Folly in Dingle, Ireland

Hussey’s Folly was hard to miss, and he explained why this tower stood all alone.

A folly refers to a structure built with no particular purpose beyond decoration.

They were common among elites in 18th century England, but this one, and many others throughout Ireland, had an objective. Many were built by prominent families, such as the Husseys, during the potato famine to provide employment for the poor.

The cliffs in the harbor of Dingle, Ireland

As we passed outside of the protection of the harbor, the wild Atlantic crashed against the cliffs.

Tour Ban in Dingle, Ireland. Our guide said, Paris has her Eiffel Tour, London has her Stonenenge, but if you want to see a Dingleman cry, show him the Tour Bán.

The endless assault has carved out a stark and stunning landscape where the stone fights to hold the sea at bay.

It is a valiant effort, but we could see where the rocks are slowly but surely losing the battle and falling into the briny deep.

Big ole brew

Crean's beer at Dingle Brewing Company in Dingle Ireland

Windblown and sea sprayed, we made way back to the docks and then on to the Dingle Brewing Company for a chance to taste what just might be our new favorite beer.

No doubt Ireland is known for her Guinness, but for those of us who prefer a little lighter brew, Crean’s stands out.

They bill it as a fresh Irish lager, and we were sampling it right at the brewery so we couldn’t have found it any fresher. But even the bottles that made the flight back to the states in our suitcase were crisp and clean when we cracked them open.

We did much more pub crawling… check it out!

The final, epic feast

The incredible appys at Global Village in Dingle, Ireland

For a farewell-to-Dingle dinner we chose the Global Village Restaurant.

Everywhere we went in Dingle was committed to using fresh, local ingredients, but Global Village takes it one step further by growing their own vegetables in a chemical-free garden.

Scallop dish at Global Village in Dingle, Ireland

To try as much as possible, and for a little extra fun, we went with the special tasting menu.

Every night, Chef Martin Bealin prepares five separate small dishes, giving us the chance to taste our way across much of the menu.

It’s almost as good as sharing bites off of each other’s plates.

Beautiful fish dish at Global Village in Dingle Ireland

For a starter we were served crab bisque with an apple salad, crab & duck mousse, and Dingle Gin gel.

That was followed by pan fried scallops with a poached egg and rapeseed mayo.

Next we sampled a fillet of turbot on a bed of pea puree along with cockles.

To top things off, we had a skewer of various grilled lamb cuts known as Nose-to-Tail paired with whipped carrots and a mini shepherd’s pie served in a shot glass.

Lamb Nose to Tail at Global Village in Dingle, Ireland

Dessert came as its own little cross section of the menu. From left to right we had a peanut butter pie, yogurt custard, white chocolate sorbet, orange flan, and a rhubarb cake, all served on a plate drizzled with caramel and sprinkled with mint dust.

Fabulous dessert at Global Village in Dingle, Ireland

At that point we really had to throw in the towel – or napkin – and head back to Benner’s to call it a day… or two… or three.

We know how to quit while we’re ahead.

David & Veronica,

See all of our adventures in Ireland!

A big thank you to for providing this yummy adventure. As always, all opinions are our own.

YOUR TURN: How would you like to eat YOUR way through Dingle?

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36 thoughts on “Is the Food Good in Ireland? In Dingle it is!”

  1. So excite to see this post. Ireland has a bad reputation for food but thankfully that’s changing thanks to chefs, food producers and restauranteurs mainly in Western Ireland and in towns like Dingle. We had the chance to sample some amazing food and drink, especially craft beer during our last trip. Can’t wait to go back.

  2. Thanks for the great post. My husband and I are going to Ireland in November and we will be staying in Dingle for several days.

  3. I’ll be in Dingle in October and thought the main attraction would be the views but it looks like the cuisine will be a surprise bonus. That Irish breakfast and the pasta with lamb dish look so satisfying they make me want to hike a green Irish hill and work up an appetite so I can eat the scallops! Ireland here I come!

  4. I’m pretty sure that even Mr. and Mrs. Excitement stumbled into the Global Village restaurant during our visit to Dingle in 2012 — followed by some pub drink and music. The other place we found in Dingle was the candy store where I was able to stock up on All Sorts (which I think I remember having for lunch the next day). Your food photos are very compelling. Now I have to go rummage around for a snack.

  5. Kathy and I spent a wonderful few days on the Dingle peninsula! So glad you got to go there, too! We’re hoping to get back there some day. Where we live now (Whidbey Island, Washington) reminds us of Dingle in many ways. Come visit the next time you’re making a circuit of the U.S.

  6. I have to say in all honesty that the food in Ireland looks OK, But the HATS in the market look adorable. I don’t think I’d go there expecting my picky palate to be impressed, but I’m a pain in the neck when it comes to food. Give me a meal in Spain any time of the day or night.

  7. I’ve only been to Dublin so far, but it sounds like Dingle will have to be on the itinerary when I go back, at least for a meal or two! It looks fabulous!

  8. I am so in love with Ireland! It is my dream to go there one day with my husband when we are no longer homebound. It is first on the list of “must go” places. Thank you for sharing your adventures with us. I’m pinning this to refer back to over & over & over!

  9. Looks like Dingle has tons to do and see! Like you, I’ve always thought of Irish food in terms of corned beef and cabbage (love it and it falls into a comfort food category as far as I’m concerned!) but your photos showed that there are plenty of other tastes to try too. I also found your trivia factoid about what a “folly” is to be very interesting!

  10. Glorious post. We are headed to Dingle in October and I had quite a similar list of places. How great to read that they all sound pretty wonderful! Thanks for cranking up our excitement factor Veronica!! looks like you really hit the ground running there.

  11. Did you get to Global Village? We had an exquisite dinner there. We popped into the Chart House and they were booked for the evening and they called GV and got us the last table of the evening. We still want to get to CH. We did a lot of our own cooking and loved the local butcher where they had a sign out front telling customers what farm the lamb came from that day. We also loved the fishmonger with the fish almost right off the boat. Love Dingle food!

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